Appreciate any guidance, or feedback: 70's B-80?

[Buschlight13 9]

18 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Now drain the transmission and see if its still full of gear oil, oil and water, or pure rusty water.

if it had a lot of gear oil oil or at least oily water soup you might align the forks and put the shifter back in to verify how the transmission works.

Then decide if you do a diesel flush or a full rebuild.

If it's all water and rust, rebuild it.

PS put a new rubber boot on the shifter whenever you permanently reinstall it. That's where they get water in these transmissions

Won't have much time to work on it till the weekend, but I did follow the guide, and get the shifter back in place with the screw.  However it doesn't move.  Gonna watch some of the stuff and plan to drain and clean it. These guides make it seem very doable.

 

[Buschlight13 9]

Found a little time to get the frame further disassembled. Gonna drain it and decide what I need to do but really leaning towards a total rebuild cause it looks like a good time. 

 

 

[kpinnc 17,773]

17 minutes ago, Buschlight13 said:

like a good time. 

 

I can tell you already that your hitch pin is definitely gonna provide a good time. Soak/ heat, soak/ heat, repeat...  Don't hit it very hard either. 

[702854boy 640]

 Same with the hubs

Another thing to look out for when you take the tranny off is the mounting plate for it, make sure it's not all cracked and everything

Edited April 15 by 702854boy

[Buschlight13 9]

14 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

I can tell you already that your hitch pin is definitely gonna provide a good time. Soak/ heat, soak/ heat, repeat...  Don't hit it very hard either. 

 

Found a few threads on this lol. I'm betting you're right.

[Handy Don 16,244]

21 hours ago, Buschlight13 said:

leaning towards a total rebuild

Leaving the bolts out of the top of the transaxle and an uncovered shifter hole during messy disassembly can easily let crud inside. Outcome depends on the crud, but on any of the hydros, crud can cause serious damage.

[kpinnc 17,773]

11 hours ago, Buschlight13 said:

Found a few threads on this lol. I'm betting you're right.

 

They will definitely come out with some patience. Just be careful not to get annoyed and try to beat it out. The cast iron case will break. Ask me how I know... 

[Handy Don 16,244]

28 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

be careful not to get annoyed and try to beat it out

Yep. Anytime you hit steel hard there is deformation. If it enlarges the diameter of the pin, you’ve just defeated your purpose. 

[kpinnc 17,773]

18 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Yep. Anytime you hit steel hard there is deformation. If it enlarges the diameter of the pin, you’ve just defeated your purpose. 

 

Good point. Most of us cut the pin close to the case, and drill a fairly large hole in the end so we can use a punch to push it out. This reduces the deformation. 

[Buschlight13 9]

Unfortunately had responsibilities this weekend, but I did get the wheels and frame disassembled. I'm for sure gonna have to cut this pin off. It's mushroomed on both ends.

 

 

[nyquil junkie 260]

Quote

I was thinking of putting  a 420cc predator on it, and using it to pull a bushhog. 

  

 

Add duals and chains, and a plow you'll have the ultimate trail cutter.

[Handy Don 16,244]

5 hours ago, Buschlight13 said:

Not a lot of pin showing there. Me, I’d grind both ends off (the heat from the grinding will help) and then, as @kpinnc suggested, drill ¼ or ⅝” holes in both ends about an inch deep to take a punch. Of course, plenty of penetrant that you’ve allowed time to work. Then, on alternating ends, a few sharp whacks on the punch with a big hammer. Reapply penetrant. Coffee or a movie. Repeat. 

Once it moves in one direction, touch grind what is now exposed of the pin then go the other way. I find that going back and forth is more productive that “going for broke” in one direction right away.

Edited 4 hours ago by Handy Don