Well…. Them are deep.

[Pullstart 69,360]

I had a boss that would respond that way, if you were to say “well” as the beginning of a response to a question.  “Them are deep”

So far, so good.  I learned a lot, and am not afraid of what I don’t know.  Usually.

 

 

[Pullstart 69,360]

Lotsa water running clean tonight.  Flow has improved greatly!

 

 

[wallfish 19,504]

The chlorine is very corrosive so it should always be washed down pretty good if it wasn't already. It'll compromise that wire insulation first and corrode anything above the static water level.  

 

Interesting to me because we do radon water systems that work directly in the well so I've seen a bunch and work with a well driller sometimes. Curious not to see a torque arrestor near the pump to combat the backlash force each time the pump starts. But, they do seem to do the pump pipe a bit different too than they do up here. Up here it's a 1" tube from the pump directly to a pitless adapter which connects to the horizontal house pipe in the side of the casing. Nothing blocks the top of the well case like that setup does. That bigger stiff pipe probably doesn't flex.

That well is pretty shallow too since the depth of the pump is so short. Average depth around here is 150-250 ft but I've dealt with them as deep as 750 ft and as shallow as 90 ft.  

 

Edited 16 hours ago by wallfish

[Pullstart 69,360]

29 minutes ago, wallfish said:

The chlorine is very corrosive so it should always be washed down pretty good if it wasn't already. It'll compromise that wire insulation first and corrode anything above the static water level.  

 

Interesting to me because we do radon water systems that work directly in the well so I've seen a bunch and work with a well driller sometimes. Curious not to see a torque arrestor near the pump to combat the backlash force each time the pump starts. But, they do seem to do the pump pipe a bit different too than they do up here. Up here it's a 1" tube from the pump directly to a pitless adapter which connects to the horizontal house pipe in the side of the casing. Nothing blocks the top of the well case like that setup does. That bigger stiff pipe probably doesn't flex.

That well is pretty shallow too since the depth of the pump is so short. Average depth around here is 150-250 ft but I've dealt with them as deep as 750 ft and as shallow as 90 ft.  

 

Thanks for the input Fish!  
 

- torque arrestor: I was curious too, but the schedule 80 1” PVC has done ok thus far.  But it was my reason for a pull rope, in case.  I was also surprised by the couplers in the pipe, using 20’ sections at a time.  The rigidness of the PVC vs a coil of 1” pipe/tubing though, and the fact that the pump is submerged, I figured the water does some of the torque arresting by itself.

 

- corrosive chlorination: Great point.  I rinsed the well casing too soon.  Momma’s coming home tonight, then out again for work in a day or two for the work week.  I’ll put that rinse on my things to do.  

-depth:  I thought I would be looking at 200 feet.  I was wondering how this would all play out, but had pipe wrenches to catch the pipe if I needed a break.  We have a water table that’s about 1 foot below my foundation.  I know that water tables and aquifers are different, but there is water everywhere.  I believe code says new wells need to be deeper, like that 200’ mark.  I was surely attempting to avoid that.  I have hand driven garden wells in the past, and they have been 14-20’ deep with amazing amounts of water volume.  The Grandparent’s house we rented while they were in Florida after we got married in ‘07 had a 20’ 2” well that we pulled the point and replaced the week before Jada was born!

 

[wallfish 19,504]

9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

-depth:  I thought I would be looking at 200 feet.  I was wondering how this would all play out, but had pipe wrenches to catch the pipe if I needed a break.  We have a water table that’s about 1 foot below my foundation.  I know that water tables and aquifers are different, but there is water everywhere.  I believe code says new wells need to be deeper, like that 200’ mark.  I was surely attempting to avoid that.  I have hand driven garden wells in the past, and they have been 14-20’ deep with amazing amounts of water volume.  The Grandparent’s house we rented while they were in Florida after we got married in ‘07 had a 20’ 2” well that we pulled the point and replaced the week before Jada was born!

The danger with shallow wells is E Coli or coliform bacteria ( Fecal waste) A guy had a shallow well out in the middle a large field up in one of the hick towns here. Near the pond too. He didn't realize all those geese were a big problem to his drinking water.  I was called for the radon after he tested for it but he got a pretty good surprise after asking him for a complete water quality report before installing a system.

Chlorine will kill what's in the well but not in the recovery water entering it. It's always a good idea to test it after any work like that is done.

 

 

9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

torque arrestor: I was curious too, but the schedule 80 1” PVC has done ok thus far

It can possibly unscrew the threaded part going into the top of the pump. Adding the rope is a good idea. Even the smaller 110v pumps in a radon system have unscrewed a fitting over time. Saw it on 2 older ones that were before me and the newer stuff. 

Up here it's no glued fittings and the pipe is a one piece or long sections coupled together. It'll move around when the pump goes if there's no a torque arrestor and bump around. It chaffs the wires on the well wall. That rigid pipe shouldn't have an issue with that

Edited 5 hours ago by wallfish

[Beap52 2,112]

I've never heard of acid cleaning the well.  What caused you to decide to clean the well? 

[Pullstart 69,360]

5 hours ago, Beap52 said:

I've never heard of acid cleaning the well.  What caused you to decide to clean the well? 

The pump was running, but cavitating.  It was pulling more water from the casing than available.   The acid was supposed to clean the well screen so water would flow into the pipe better, and rid the system of debris and rust buildup.