gt14rider 1,158 #1 Posted March 3 Hi all, got a question about valve rotators. Doing a valve job on a k181, is it worth changing springs and adding rotators or just leave it alone. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,298 #2 Posted March 3 Seems to me I've read that an exhaust valve should be rotating. Intake is optional. Heat patterns perhaps? 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 31,582 #3 Posted March 3 17 minutes ago, gt14rider said: is it worth changing springs and adding rotators or just leave it alone. IDK the engine probably ran for 50 to 60 years with out them before. 5 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 1,158 #4 Posted March 3 The reason is I'm right there, had to change the cam(broke in half). Got new valves, replacing valve springs 230010. springs are shorter for the rotator 230168-s 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,866 #5 Posted March 4 The use of Rotator(s) explained on page 12.14. KohlerKseriesManual.pdf 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,108 #6 Posted March 4 Bigger question is how did you bust the cam?!?!? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 1,158 #7 Posted March 4 @WHX?? the tractor was running, had a tick and geting loader. Pulled apart and found this, chunk of cam missing, found it in the pan. 20260114_101853.mp4 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,108 #8 Posted March 4 11 hours ago, gt14rider said: had a tick Ah I think you mentioned this before Rider. Here i was worried a rod snapped, holed the block and all that carnage. Odd that it broke must have been just a weak spot in the cam? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 1,158 #9 Posted March 4 @WHX??Had another post (k181 ticking sound). Well I started peeling the onion, new rings,dingleberry hone,both valves, new valve spring,glasses the head and deck,new bearings, seals,and carburetor and fuel pump rebuild. Had crankshaft and block checked, .0015 tapper on crankshaft (in spec) .0025 in the middle of the bore ( should be ok new Kohler .020 over rings ). I got it apart might as well get it done. That's why I asked about the rotators, I would have to replace the springs if I use the rotators. Like @Achto said it ran 50+ Year why mess with it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,117 #10 Posted March 4 I try to put in what came out. Little trickier getting that rotator in with the limited room. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 1,158 #11 Posted March 4 (edited) @squonk you are so right, it was a pain in my a$$ to get the exhaust valve spring out, that's why I'm baying the new valves springs. Exhaust Valve spring is tweeked Edited March 5 by gt14rider Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 1,158 #12 Posted March 8 (edited) Good afternoon, been waiting for parts and clean up. Got new valves and lapping the valves. Question (see pics) take a look at valve and seat not pitted, they looks good from a foot away, but look close , they have rings on the seats. Valves seem to be centered on the seat. So do I keep lapping ? Thanks Edited March 8 by gt14rider Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,744 #13 Posted March 9 The service manual is available here. Here is the information on valve seats: It is best to grind the valve till it cleans up and then cut the valve seat to get the proper contact area. After doing that, lapping should be kept to a minimum. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites