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sqrlgtr

Adding Liquid Ballast

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ri702bill

And top off the air pocket with 10-12 PSI, then good to go. You are using inner tubes, right???

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

And top off the air pocket with 10-12 PSI, 

 

We don't. 

I have two tractors running at or near zero air pressure.  

 

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Pullstart
47 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

We don't. 

I have two tractors running at or near zero air pressure.  

 


x2

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sqrlgtr

Running 11psi at the moment but will adjust if need be. Must have been pretty full because it didn't take much air to get 11psi in them. No tubes in these didn't want to break um down just to install tubes :D. This is second set I've went tubeless with the rv antifreeze; I May regret it later on but haven't had any trouble with first set so far.:handgestures-fingerscrossed:. Now the ol calcium ballast is a different animal.

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WHX??
3 hours ago, sqrlgtr said:

ropped and busted a gallon of antifreeze

How do you break a plastic jug??!?! :ychain:

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sqrlgtr
1 minute ago, WHX?? said:

How do you break a plastic jug??!?! :ychain:

at least I was using protection and had my rubber boots on.

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ri702bill
9 hours ago, Pullstart said:


x2

I add the air only to swell the sidewalls to get that "honeymoon fit" for the chains on the tires. 

I actually had one lose a few pounds over the summer once - I noticed a bit of slack in the cross links - even with the rubber ring tensioner on the inner sidewall.

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JoeM

I have found air pressure when filled depends on a couple things. How full you fill and what your doing with the machine. 

When using the machine to cut grass or using tire chains I use 8-10 pounds of air and fill 80/90 percent. Improves the chain fit and cut. Reduces the sidewall sag in softer tires.

I have ran ag tires with just a couple three four pound.

 

my filling unit is super high tech. 

image.png.cf9616855b39cb4e4a7446a7e4d5cfce.png 

just pump the jug with my hand

image.png.e207c45d4d1222714de09c99800127c3.png

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ebinmaine

There was a guy on here and YT several years ago that filled his tires to 100% by drilling a hole 🕳 in the "top" of the tread, filling and venting through the location,  and using a rope patch to stop the leak. 

Ron Benz (??)

I've been curious about that ever since but never had the 🪨  to drill a tire and then put it to work. 

I guess worst case scenario is the loss of some of the fluid...

 

It would be neat to have the extra weight for ballast.  

 

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

It would be neat to have the extra weight for ballast.  

Safer to add cast iron wheel weights inside & outside the rims....

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Pullstart

I have filled a portable tank with fluid, pressurized it, and filled the tires before, but I have plenty of sets with zero air in them.

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squonk

I've had RV AF in wheels over 10 years without any issue without tubes. It contains corrosion inhibitors so I'm not worried about a rot hole. Just start out with decent rims to begin with.

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ebinmaine
22 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Safer to add cast iron wheel weights inside & outside the rims....

 

We have the steel as well. 

 

My experience shows me... the heavier the better - for >> my << application. But other folks don't have the same needs. Trina, for instance, is not a fan of the fluid fill on her lighter tractors with Limited Slip Differential.  

 

Drill - fill - and patch would get several gallons more fluid. 

 

Still not sure I'll take the chance. 

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ri702bill

It seems that the best fluid to yse is Rimguard, aka beet juice, if you are not using tubws. The rims don't rot, and it is heavier per gallon. IF you can find a local vendor... Not here in RI...

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WHX??
24 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

portable tank with fluid, pressurized it

I thought you went to the school of dumping it in a broken  bead? 

 

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

have the extra weight for ballast. 

Are you saying you don't have any fluid filled tires? 

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ri702bill
Just now, WHX?? said:

I thought you went to the school of dumping it in a broken  bead? 

 

Are you saying you don't have any fluid filled tires? 

I run fluis filled tires and weights - no traction issues...

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

 

Are you saying you don't have any fluid filled tires? 

 

I certainly do.... but more weight is more friction is more traction.  

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

 

 

Good stuff. 

 

Ride quality is a zero issue at the low speeds we run.  

 

If not for the very high cost I'd absolutely do the foam fill. 

More weight. No future leaks... Too expensive though.  

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WHX??
1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

f not for the very high cost I'd absolutely do the foam fill. 

More weight. No future leaks...

Gotta be a :bitch:you ever want to go to different tires  tho. A wheel barrow? sure ... a tractor?  ... nah. 

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sqrlgtr
33 minutes ago, squonk said:

It contains corrosion inhibitors so I'm not worried about a rot hole. Just start out with decent rims to begin with.

@squonk

My thoughts also.

 

The little fuel transfer pump worked great for this. I keep filling and bleeding off until nothing but antifreeze was coming out, so they are pretty full.

 

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pfrederi
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Good stuff. 

 

Ride quality is a zero issue at the low speeds we run.  

 

If not for the very high cost I'd absolutely do the foam fill. 

More weight. No future leaks... Too expensive though.  

 

 

Foam Fill has some draw backs.  The New Holland 3pt 6' finish mower I have came with foam filled tires.  OK for a few years but the foam compresses over time.  Then the lateral force from turns backing up etc.  the bead breaks loose and the tire tries to demount itself.  So now I had to figure out how to demount the tires to put in a regular tubes and new tire.  Getting the foam filled tire off was a nightmare. Reciprocating saw, Skill saw, cut off disks nothing worked very well, and it took a long time and a lot of 4 letter words.  When another one failed I decided to buy a new wheel for $275 (has heavy roller bearings ) then I discovered that New Holland no longer used the foam filled they went to a semi-pneumatic tire/wheel.

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