Joker72 80 #26 Posted 15 hours ago For all that, she gets a nice roll pin and a sense of security knowing that she's under my care and I have a grinder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,582 #27 Posted 15 hours ago Pull the trunnion already! 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 2,496 #28 Posted 14 hours ago Also in that same photo that hitch pin clip needs to be on top of that bracket for operation. Just remove the pin while getting the belts on or off then reinsert pin on top of the bracket. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,732 #29 Posted 14 hours ago @Joker72 your bone dry set up , made me do this years ago , every stage of that pto lever can be improved , greased washer start at side of battery tray , firms up any initial movement thrust , eliminate all play , the heim joint swap is easy , original threading 3/8 x 16, went right over that with a 3/8 x 24 DIE NUT , OILTHREADING , heim joint screws right on , that frame swing mount point . can also be a spring assist pull point to stop buzzing noise . easy fix .pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 44,716 #30 Posted 13 hours ago I would never recommend removal of any safety device, but I don't have any very young or very old ( I'm only 82) people operating my machines. So, I do what I feel is required to make my Wheel Horses more efficient and user friendly. When these PTOs are engaged they have a high inward axial load on the small thrust bearing and depending on the belt tension a forward axial load centered on the PTO needle bearing. When the PTOs are disengaged and locked by the brake they have an outward axial load on the small thrust bearing and a bending type radial load on the needle bearing. These loads are caused by the brake when the PTO is disengaged which is most of the time for most of my tractors. Therefore, I remove the PTO brakes and make a new adjustable U bracket for the hoop/shaft connection that only loads the bearings when the PTO is engaged. My PTOs probably rotate about 1/2 of the engine RPM when disengaged. So I only need to pull the lynch pin to be able to install a belt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,065 #31 Posted 10 hours ago 2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: So I only need to pull the lynch pin to be able to install a belt. I did the same but used a second hitch pin in 1/8 inch diameter in the hole that the roll pin used. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 80 #32 Posted 9 hours ago (edited) All back to original and fully understood (trunnion pulled). Thanks guys. Snowblower turns great. Edited 9 hours ago by Joker72 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,732 #33 Posted 6 hours ago @Ed Kennell noting your pto . I also disconnected my related brake pad set up , while going thru, my upgrade years ago , on anything with rotational drag , collectively that bearing drag , eats clutches , and and was just something , i was going to improve, often refer to my mule drive down belt easily moving by hand and also no related frayed belts , from incremental bearing hang up , that mower deck , spindle belt , with added flat idler on back return side , eliminated that long unsupported belt bounce . have not had any bearing issues of any kind , noise/ rough , my pto spindle still spins , when I turn off the engine , silently . like a repetitive problem , for track down and elimination . you can see what fails , often find other related areas , for me once I start , just keep going , my plow frame , was unrelating trouble spots , just me and a roller stool , it completely exposed itself , swings like butter , pete . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites