416-H Fuse Block Question

[c-series don 12,574]

I’m trying to remove the wires from the fuse block so I can replace it, but I can’t seem to get them out? I tried reaching in there with a dental pick but no luck. Is there a trick to this? This seems like something @cleat might be able to help me with? The reason I’m doing this is because I have several bad connections in the block. One of the connections corroded and the fuse broke off inside, I’m not sure what that one even does. The others have bad connections. I’ve tried twisting the prongs on the fuse to try to tighten up the connection but it doesn’t really help. When I wiggle the wires from underneath the lights work and it will start charging. Charging is the main issue here, I can watch the amp gauge jump and it will charge when I move the wires. I have another wiring harness from another 416 but that seems like a lot of work. I want to just use the fuse block from the donor harness. Or at least remove the wires from the existing one and see what is going on. Any help is appreciated as always! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,511]

Does it have these terminals? Click on the picture for more.

 

[squonk 48,250]

I know a lot of guy want to keep things "original" but if it was mine, I would chop the wires out of the block and get individual weatherproof fuse holders. I went a step further on the 520 I had. I got some 4 wire flat trailer wires with a long pigtail and moved everything including chopping out that crappy 9 pin Molex connector to the opposite side of the tractor to get it away from the exhaust heat. I used electrical wire markers and 2 trailer plug sets. I marked one plug "A" and the other "B" and documented which electrical circuit was in each plug and what color the wire was. This maintained the ability to disconnect the engine side of the harness. 

[Bill D 3,177]

This is the terminal you have/need.  Note the little tabs that lock the terminal into the fuse block.  You need to bend those in with a small pick to release the terminal.

 

I'd recommend replacing the 9 pin with a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard 56 connector.   The 416 only uses 7 of the 9 pins.  I'd also recommend running a 14 gauge wire from the battery positive in the starter to the positive terminal on the voltage regulator.   That with eliminate future fuse block issues. 

[WHX?? 58,308]

42 minutes ago, squonk said:

keep things "original"

Don't listen to them guys Don Squonks a hackin butcher. Heard tell her used to fix shoes too and likes rhubarb cobbler. 

 

Seriously what happens is heat melts the plastic in them. Even just a little on those connectors and they become part of the fuse block. Then you may have to cut the fuse block apart or just snip the wires and start all over. Then you gotta deal with wires that are stretched piano wire tight. In a tight spot to work no less.

Now Squonky ain't lookin so stupid. 

[lynnmor 9,055]

You can buy a DORMAN 85668 fuse block from RockAuto for $4.05, they are available at many auto parts stores as well.  Take a photo of the bottom of the old block to record where the wires go.  Cut the wires as close to the block as possible to conserve wire length.  Record how the connectors are linked together in the old block, some are linked and others are single.  Assemble the connectors and block, a crimping tool makes the job better, I like to solder the connectors after crimping to prevent a hot connection in the future.  Use NO-OX-ID on the fuses to prevent corrosion.  Wheel Horse Parts & More has a fuse block cover to keep out water and debris.  Done right, this will last much longer than original.

[c-series don 12,574]

Gentleman, thank you all for your responses! As soon as I get back on this I’ll update the post. Had to back burner this for a little bit. I only use this tractor to mow with so I’m in no hurry. 

[WHX?? 58,308]

3 hours ago, c-series don said:

only use this tractor to mow with

 

Hopefully that ain't too far off Don. This winter BS gets a little old come February & jonesin for the smell of fresh cut grass. 

 

On a 416H I had what I ended up doing was getting new terminals and moving the wires to the empty/spare location. If you notice the top slots had some issues goin on too so I shoulda went the Sqounky route. This tractor was going to my stepson where machinery goes to die anyway. @Achto knows! 

If was to keep this one I woulda took a stab at replacing the whole block just for the challenge. 

 

 

Edited February 3 by WHX??

[Achto 32,864]

5 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

This tractor was going to my stepson where machinery goes to die anyway. @Achto knows! 

 

Sounds like my nephews farm. 

[peter lena 10,099]

@ C-series don , OPPORTUNITY   ,  do a re route of original ,wiring  hot setting  , combined with a  much improved  hot air DISCHARGE  TO THE ISSUE . a cable wrap carrier  , stick on  wire mounts , make a much improved / cooler  set up , local metal shop  , could easily make quick work of that  belt guard , related , sites , ideas . all my changes are  based on  REPEDITIVE FAILURE  . reliability  is restored , paint it red / black it disappears , hole saws , just sayin , pete  

 

[Lee1977 7,805]

I cut the power wire and start wire off the nine pin solder each back together and taped them up. Haven't had a problem with the other wires. I also installed capped rubber fuse holders.

Edited March 2 by Lee1977

[c-series don 12,574]

It’s been a while, but I’m back on this. In the spring I cut the wires to the 30amp fuse and installed a stand alone fuse holder. This stemmed from the fact it wasn’t charging. Now I have constant power to the B+ terminal on the rectifier, not just with the key on. Once it is running it over charges, the fuse blows after a few minutes and then it’s discharging. I don’t know where I went wrong? I only cut the wires going to the fuse block and then connected to the stand alone fuse. I printed out the wiring schematic and it appears I have everything correct? Electrical issues are not my strong point, however I believe with the help from you guys I can fix this! Thanks in advance! 

[lynnmor 9,055]

Check that the voltage regulator is grounded well at its mounting bolt.

 

Connect a voltmeter to the B+ connector and a good ground.  Start the engine while watching the voltmeter, run the engine at half throttle and be ready to shut down if the voltage goes past 15.  Replace the voltage regulator if you see over 15 volts.  Voltage regulators can be damaged if run without a battery or one that is wasted.

[953 nut 69,931]

On 2/1/2026 at 3:15 PM, c-series don said:

When I wiggle the wires from underneath the lights work and it will start charging. Charging is the main issue here, I can watch the amp gauge jump and it will charge when I move the wires.

 

12 hours ago, c-series don said:

. Now I have constant power to the B+ terminal on the rectifier, not just with the key on.

Looking at the wiring from the "Demystification Guide" it is normal to have 12 volts at the B+ terminal with the key off. The overcharging may be due to a poor ground on the rectifier. Another place to look is the "Infamous Onan nine pin connector."  Battery voltage enters the  Wheel Horse wiring system through the B+ terminal of the nine pin and then goes to the 30 amp fuse and then back to the REG + of the Onan nine pin to the regulator on the engine. Since the small pins on the Nine Pin are rather light duty this gives it the opportunity to cause problems in TWO places. My suggestion would be to cut, splice, and solder each wire to and from the nine pin one at a time. The only purpose for having the nine pin was to mate the Onan system to the Wheel Horse wiring.  Kohler and Kawasaki powered Wheel Horses didn't use the nine pin,      seems we never have to field very many wiring system questions about them, just thinkin' there may be  a reason.

I have attached a couple of system drawings and the Demystification guide for your use. There is a black dot in the wiring where the nine pin is inserted in the wiring.