416-H Fuse Block Question

[c-series don 11,092]

I’m trying to remove the wires from the fuse block so I can replace it, but I can’t seem to get them out? I tried reaching in there with a dental pick but no luck. Is there a trick to this? This seems like something @cleat might be able to help me with? The reason I’m doing this is because I have several bad connections in the block. One of the connections corroded and the fuse broke off inside, I’m not sure what that one even does. The others have bad connections. I’ve tried twisting the prongs on the fuse to try to tighten up the connection but it doesn’t really help. When I wiggle the wires from underneath the lights work and it will start charging. Charging is the main issue here, I can watch the amp gauge jump and it will charge when I move the wires. I have another wiring harness from another 416 but that seems like a lot of work. I want to just use the fuse block from the donor harness. Or at least remove the wires from the existing one and see what is going on. Any help is appreciated as always! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,957]

Does it have these terminals? Click on the picture for more.

 

[squonk 45,237]

I know a lot of guy want to keep things "original" but if it was mine, I would chop the wires out of the block and get individual weatherproof fuse holders. I went a step further on the 520 I had. I got some 4 wire flat trailer wires with a long pigtail and moved everything including chopping out that crappy 9 pin Molex connector to the opposite side of the tractor to get it away from the exhaust heat. I used electrical wire markers and 2 trailer plug sets. I marked one plug "A" and the other "B" and documented which electrical circuit was in each plug and what color the wire was. This maintained the ability to disconnect the engine side of the harness. 

[Bill D 2,559]

This is the terminal you have/need.  Note the little tabs that lock the terminal into the fuse block.  You need to bend those in with a small pick to release the terminal.

 

I'd recommend replacing the 9 pin with a 5 pin and 2 pin Packard 56 connector.   The 416 only uses 7 of the 9 pins.  I'd also recommend running a 14 gauge wire from the battery positive in the starter to the positive terminal on the voltage regulator.   That with eliminate future fuse block issues. 

[WHX?? 54,214]

42 minutes ago, squonk said:

keep things "original"

Don't listen to them guys Don Squonks a hackin butcher. Heard tell her used to fix shoes too and likes rhubarb cobbler. 

 

Seriously what happens is heat melts the plastic in them. Even just a little on those connectors and they become part of the fuse block. Then you may have to cut the fuse block apart or just snip the wires and start all over. Then you gotta deal with wires that are stretched piano wire tight. In a tight spot to work no less.

Now Squonky ain't lookin so stupid. 

[lynnmor 8,480]

You can buy a DORMAN 85668 fuse block from RockAuto for $4.05, they are available at many auto parts stores as well.  Take a photo of the bottom of the old block to record where the wires go.  Cut the wires as close to the block as possible to conserve wire length.  Record how the connectors are linked together in the old block, some are linked and others are single.  Assemble the connectors and block, a crimping tool makes the job better, I like to solder the connectors after crimping to prevent a hot connection in the future.  Use NO-OX-ID on the fuses to prevent corrosion.  Wheel Horse Parts & More has a fuse block cover to keep out water and debris.  Done right, this will last much longer than original.