Easton Rich 1,000 #1 Posted January 10 Since I’ve got TONS of extra parts, I have been thinking about what to do with them. I had this idea that I could make a C-Series hybrid tractor. I’d like to have electric clutch, hydraulics, forward swept axle and gear reduction steering, Eaton 1100 or 5091 8spd? Maybe C-195 3pt? I don’t know what else I could do, but my end goal is to have a tractor I can plow, till, harrow, and snowblow with. I’ll get pictures soon of my parts selection. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,276 #2 Posted January 10 Electric clutch - why so?? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #3 Posted January 10 I’ve never had one on a tractor, and I wanted to experiment. This thread is for feedback because you guys have way more knowledge than I do. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,276 #4 Posted January 10 Depending on the implement being driven by the PTO, the instantaneous engagement of an electric clutch may be an issue; better done with the traditional lever type where you can ease into it. All I use are lever style. My ... 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 44,942 #5 Posted January 10 Agree with Bill. I addition to bringing gold prices if you can find one this was not a good Wheel Horse idea. I understand the need for idiot safety switches, but IMO, the original PTO engagement lever used on the Raiders was the best. Looking forward to seeing this build. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,181 #6 Posted January 10 2 hours ago, ri702bill said: Depending on the implement being driven by the PTO, the instantaneous engagement of an electric clutch may be an issue; better done with the traditional lever type where you can ease into it. Soft start clutch controller works well for this issue. I've used one for 8 years and it works great. 2 hours ago, Easton Rich said: I’d like to have electric clutch, hydraulics, forward swept axle and gear reduction steering, Eaton 1100 or 5091 8spd? Maybe C-195 3pt? I didn't use hydraulics on this one but it can be done! Not a C-series but has alot of those parts in it. 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #7 Posted January 10 31 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Soft start clutch controller works well for this issue. I've used one for 8 years and it works great. I didn't use hydraulics on this one but it can be done! Not a C-series but has alot of those parts in it. Is there a build thread on this one? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #8 Posted January 10 I can see how electric wouldn’t work. The immediate start would cause belt slippage. Now I know! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,276 #9 Posted January 10 41 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Soft start clutch controller These allow a more controlled, less violent engagement. As I recall, they are aftermarket, not Factory offered. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 77,394 #10 Posted January 10 3 hours ago, Easton Rich said: I’d like to have *******, forward swept axle and gear reduction steering, ***** 8spd Things I'm doing to my '74 C160-8 currently. Also a larger steering wheel, new low back seat, and Briggs vanguard swap. Previous mods included 24x12.00-12 tires on wide rear wheels. I'll be looking forward to your progress. Manual vs hydro transmission is a personal preference. Seems the majority like a manual for rototilling. Snow plowing could go either way. I've gotten used to a hydro with hydro lift for plowing because of my VERY heavy plow. Trina wouldn't be caught on a hydro unless her manual tractors are buried or broken. For any other usage we both highly prefer a manual transmission. Adding a hydro lift to a manual transmission tractor is certainly possible but obviously starting out with a hydro transmission and hydro lift would be beneficial. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,181 #11 Posted January 10 1 hour ago, Easton Rich said: Is there a build thread on this one? Yes. Frokenstien Build 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midpack 1,104 #12 Posted January 11 4 hours ago, ri702bill said: These allow a more controlled, less violent engagement. As I recall, they are aftermarket, not Factory offered. I have a soft start module on a Magnum 18 with an electric PTO. It makes a huge difference. I originally ran it with a manual PTO so I knew exactly how much of a difference it made. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,181 #13 Posted January 11 These are what I use on my Scag zero turn and it is awesome. They work with any engine, and are simple to wire up. You wrap the sense wire around a spark plug wire, so it engages based on the RPM of the engine. Soft start clutch controller Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #14 Posted January 11 Wow, I’ll definitely look into it. How much does it cost? The website didn’t say Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,181 #15 Posted January 11 4 hours ago, Easton Rich said: Wow, I’ll definitely look into it. How much does it cost? The website didn’t say I paid about $50 for mine, but that was several years ago. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,276 #16 Posted January 11 Just Googled it - costs over $100 now... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midpack 1,104 #17 Posted January 11 That makes it tougher to bite the bullet. They do work well IMO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,773 #18 Posted January 11 @Easton Rich rotational drag is the issue , when you minimise that , the difference is amazing . often refer to , my pto driven belt to the mule drive , easily moving by hand , to attachment . another glairing bearing hang up is BELT FRAYING , caused by incremental spindle stoppage , causing BELT BOUNCE , as you can see I am suggesting , verifying and insuring smooth / easy pulley / bearing movement . there are a number of related bearings in those pulleys . with ceiling fan lubrication , grease , that consistently , whine with noise . @midpack has the cure with the soft start , module , would check that out , wheel horse , lever / linkages , are at best minimal , small improvements , make a world of difference , good luck with that , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #19 Posted January 11 9 hours ago, ri702bill said: Just Googled it - costs over $100 now... Yeah, I think I’ll just put in a manual one. It’s not that big of a deal. I’m looking at a 520-H now with everything I need to do this (except 3pt). I’ll keep you guys updated on what happens! Oh, and you might be wondering, “Well what tractor is he gonna use?” That’s coming soon… 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,276 #20 Posted January 11 2 minutes ago, Easton Rich said: “Well what tractor is he gonna use?” Do it with style.... build a Round Hood! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #21 Posted January 11 Ahhhh… I can see it now, a twin Onan round hood 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,181 #22 Posted January 12 17 hours ago, ri702bill said: Just Googled it - costs over $100 now... Worth every penny. Saves belts and whatever they run on, as well as improving the life of the electric clutch. The clutch on my Scag is upwards of five times that much. Not to mention it preserves my mental health. No more slamming the clutch. Just a nice and easy engagement. Works like antilock brakes... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #23 Posted January 12 I better make sure mine works Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 1,000 #24 Posted January 13 Ok, I made a whoopsie. I traded off the project tractor... BUT I've got the option between a C -160 or a C-175. I need some help with this. What should I choose? I know the platforms are kinda similar, but I don't know the advantages? Any insight would be helpful. I gotta pick by Friday. Oh and did I mention it was delivered? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,181 #25 Posted January 13 (edited) 2 hours ago, Easton Rich said: What should I choose? I It is always easier to work out any rear hitch mods if the fuel tank isn't under the fender pan. Just my opinion... It can be (and has been previously) built with the tank under the seat, it's just that having extra room and somewhat inline access to the rear makes such mods less complicated. Especially true if there is a hydro on the machine. Edited January 13 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites