Improved Hub Puller

[Blue Chips 548]

4 hours ago, ranger said:

Brilliant! Now that you have made this, you’ll probably never have an another worn seal or stuck hub again! It’s always the way. As for a thrust bearing, I think a sintered bronze, “Oilite” type washer would most likely crumble and collapse under the pressure? Perhaps use a couple of case hardened, or fully hardened steel washers with a few drops of “ZX1” friction eliminator between the washers? I used to use this stuff under the heads of the cylinder head bolts on diesel engines, it made the final tightening to a specific angle possible without having to use a pipe extension on the breaker bar! Do you have a “Hydraulic” type gear puller? If so you could machine a threaded sleeve to match the hydraulic part and weld it to the outer disc, in place of the hex nut.

 

On thinking about it, I agree that sintered bronze might not hold up to the crush load. If it were a straight-on compressive load, it might hold up OK, but if it's between two rotating parts under a heavy load (which is a likely scenario), it would be more likely to fail, particularly with repeated use. Sintered 863 iron-copper might hold up better than sintered bronze, but as you mentioned, I think a couple of grade 8 flat washers with a dab of friction-reducing compound would work fine. I haven't used ZX1, and they seem pretty tight-lipped about what kind of EP additive(s) are used in it.

 

I have a variety of anti-seize compounds containing EP additives like PFPE/PTFE (Krytox grease), graphite, MOS2, suspended metals (Zn, Cu), lithium, etc., but I think that almost any kind of anti-seize compound or EP grease would be adequate, as long as it results in slippage between the washers rather than against the hub or the end of the puller's center bolt.

 

10 hours ago, mrc said:

i have found that buying high quality tools always saves time and money in the long run.

 

I'm generally of that opinion as well, as there is a strong tendency (with occasional exceptions due to marketing hype) to get what you pay for. I rarely buy a cheap tool, but I do make an occasional exception if I see something that gives unusually good value for the money, and the 'real' thing is beyond my budget.

 

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I have now gotten into the habit of threading a nut with a couple of thick washers onto the back of all five lug holes on the Hub being pulled.

 

I think that bolting the puller plate tightly against the flange helps rigidize and strengthen the flange, but it certainly doesn't hurt to spread the load out even more by backing it with thick washers, as you and @squonk said.

 

 

 

Edited yesterday at 03:40 PM by Blue Chips

[ranger 1,838]

I used to use the ZX1 in all my car engines. I mixed some with the oil for the change wheel gears on my old lathe, the effect was immediate. So quiet, it was as if I had disengaged the screw cutting facility. You can mix it with cutting oil also. But the most noticeable effect was when I tried it under the heads of bolts on VW diesel engines. After torquing down the bolts, they were then tightened further by a certain angle figure. 120 degrees springs to mind? You couldn’t do it in one go, my 24” Snap On breaker bar would bend like a banana, then the bolt would move with a crack like a gunshot! Using a smear of ZX1 under the heads, not on the threads, the bolts would torque down, and then tighten further to the set angle with no great effort, no sudden noises, and not having to use an extension on the breaker bar. 

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,398]

You guys pull hubs? If I can't get em off with the tap of a hammer they get cut off lol (I'm kidding)

 

If you decide to sell some pullers put my name down!

[Blue Chips 548]

Small improvement: I made a very simple 'thrust bearing' for the end of the puller's center bolt.

 

I bored a 5/16"+ hole in the end of the 3/4-16 grade 8 center bolt, squared off the end of the bolt, cut the threads off of a partially-threaded grade 8 5/16 bolt, and added two 5/16 SAE washers.

 

If I wanted to get fancier, I could have cut a groove in the shank of the 5/16 bolt for a small O-ring to retain it in the center bolt, but I figure enough is enough. A dab of grease will hold the 5/16" bolt in the end of the center bolt while the puller is being set up, and a bit of grease or anti-seize or other EP lube (ZX1?) on and between the washers would be a good idea when using the puller.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited yesterday at 08:52 PM by Blue Chips

[c-series don 10,932]

@Blue Chips your work is nothing short of impressive! 

[WHX?? 53,697]

20 hours ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

sell some pullers put my name down!

Yep be careful Chips ... you may have a new career ... 

[Dan 312-8 358]

Excellent work! I have a TIG welder at home but no longer have access to a lathe or milling machine. The only time I miss being the Plant Manager at a machine shop.