702854boy 354 #1 Posted 16 hours ago Would anyone have a photo of how their BD-4262 plow frame looks from the front? With ours, it's way too far to the right even with both of the angle iron mounts centered on the tractor. It looks like ours is bent to the right but nothing looks broken. This is also causing the left side of the plow to hit the left wheel when the plow is angled to the left. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,814 #2 Posted 15 hours ago Your plow mounts to the front of the rear axle housing with horizontal bolts. Correct? Check your frame at the rear where the transmission bolts to the frame with 4 bolts. They have a habit of cracking around the mounting bolts. Could you add a plate or two between the axle housing and right side mount? Drill two holes in each shim to match the hitch and it may require longer bolts. It would not take much change at the rear to make a big change at the front. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 354 #3 Posted 15 hours ago 19 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Check your frame at the rear where the transmission bolts to the frame with 4 bolts. They have a habit of cracking around the mounting bolts. When we put the transmission in the tractor everything looked all right there. 21 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Your plow mounts to the front of the rear axle housing with horizontal bolts. Correct? Yes, it is the pre-attach a matic style. 24 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Could you add a plate or two between the axle housing and right side mount? Drill two holes in each shim to match the hitch and it may require longer bolts. It would not take much change at the rear to make a big change at the front. I could maybe try that sometime this weekend, but another thing I had noticed when looking at it earlier, the right side of the plow appears to be more straight and the left side appears to be more angled in, and the narrowest cross piece appeared to be angled instead of perpendicular to the frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,814 #4 Posted 15 hours ago If the mounting bolts have enough length you could back them off on the right side and center the blade up at the front. That would give you an idea of how much shim you would need to add. Hard to say what the blade has gone through over the last 63 years. If it could only talk. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 354 #5 Posted 14 hours ago 1 minute ago, gwest_ca said: If it could only talk. Ain't that the truth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 354 #6 Posted 14 hours ago Here's some photos of what it looks like right now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 1,722 #7 Posted 11 hours ago (edited) 10 hours ago, 702854boy said: Here's some photos of what it looks like right now That frame looks like it's been smoked at one time and improperly welded back together (or not repaired at all). Are you any good at cutting and welding? You're going to need to get it squared up and rewelded. Find a flat area of floor, or maybe a sheet of plywood or drywall, and chalk out a box with a center line, and you'll get some idea of how far out of whack it is. Edited 3 hours ago by Bar Nuthin 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,541 #8 Posted 4 hours ago @Bar Nuthin that slide pin in the swing quadrant and related squeeze lever ease of function is key to that moving with ease , would also suggest a shoulder bolt at the lower squeeze lever / frame mount ? lets you have a SMOOTH LEVER SWING POINT , trial build with regular nut , for swing / squeeze ease , lubrication , once VERIFIED FOR MOTION . remove regular nut and replace with elastic Lok nut , did that on my set up also detailed every connection point . like a red aerosol grease , extension tube , to get into every movement spot , mine is in use for years now , no issues at all , also like Pam / MINERAL OIL ON BLADE FACE , for easy slide off , push those rear frame HITCH PIN CLIPS , all the way thru to last big hole ? they will not fall out or get lost , remember , SWING QUADRANT SPRING , RUNS THE ENTIRE SQUEEZE LEVER FUNCTION , I know what you are doin , VERIFY EVERY STEP / STAGE , THATS KEY , happy plowing , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 1,722 #9 Posted 3 hours ago @peter lena It's not my plow. It belongs to @702854boy. All the lube in the world's not going to help that frame until it gets straightened and re-welded. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,541 #10 Posted 2 hours ago @Bar Nuthin aware of that , seen many attachments , with similar issues , wrong house , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,988 #11 Posted 2 hours ago 8 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said: That frame looks like it's been smoked at one time and improperly welded back together (or not repaired at all). Are you any good at cutting and welding? You're going to need to get it squared up and rewelded. Bar you are totally on the money at this frame being distorted. It looks to me like it hit something really hard at the left end of the plow and it simply twisted the quadrant (and the frame) sideways. @702854boy, if it were mine, I’d take it to a body shop with a frame-straighter machine. They might just be able to get it realigned without cutting and welding. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 354 #12 Posted 2 hours ago 2 minutes ago, Handy Don said: @702854boy, if it were mine, I’d take it to a body shop with a frame-straighter machine. They might just be able to get it realigned without cutting and welding. Would a bfh maybe work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,988 #13 Posted 2 hours ago (edited) 23 minutes ago, 702854boy said: Would a bfh maybe work? Extremely unlikely that you could get the right amount of force in the right place with the frame properly braced for the impact. AND you’d risk making it worse! Frame straighteners use clamps, chains, and hydraulics to carefully pull things into their proper alignment. A tech who knows what they are doing could probably straighten that frame in less than 30 minutes--25 minutes for setup and two minutes to bend it back. Edited 2 hours ago by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,988 #14 Posted 2 hours ago Notwithstanding my previous post, if I were desperate and low on funds and I had a come-along, some chains, pry bars, and some stout trees and I was willing to chance damaging ithe frame beyond repair, I’d consider kludging up a way to pull it straight by putting it in tension in the right direction and then applying some moderate hits with a sledge. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,437 #15 Posted 54 minutes ago 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: the frame beyond repair Not that far from being there right now... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,988 #16 Posted 13 minutes ago (edited) 44 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Not that far from being there right now... Valid point. Complete used plow with a straight (but likely worn) frame would be anywhere from $50-200 around here. I have that same frame on my plow. It is not especially robust and it does flex a bit to let one end of the plow ride higher than the other. Straightening forces would be applied steadily and simultaneously at the arrows. Note that these forces might be a thousand pounds or more and must be kept in the same plane as the frame. Edited 6 minutes ago by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites