1994 520-H Revival

[jsoluna 299]

15 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Pull the gas tank and clean under there, it is a good place for debris to cause rust.  In my opinion a pressure washer has no place in the Wheel Horse world.  I use an engine cleaner with a parts cleaning brush and then rinse with a garden hose.  That small space under the engine should be kept clean so the fins under there can cool the oil.

Thanks.  I do plan on a more thorough second stage of cleaning once the unit is proven to be basically functional.  Gotta hear it run and see it move first.

Edited November 29 by jsoluna

[jsoluna 299]

Well I can confirm that the sub - $100.00 aftermarket ignition system kit that includes the coil, condenser, and ignition module does indeed work.

 

I was quite skeptical after I opened it up and saw how drastically different the module was from the original.  

 

It required drilling new mounting holes and extending the wiring, as the wires exit the module opposite from the factory location.

 

The coil brass posts are not threaded very well and will strip extremely easily.  Luckily there is enough thread on the posts that you can stack some washers up and try again if you have stripped them at the base.

 

Longevity is yet to be seen. 

 

Spark quality is fantastic.  It will throw a bright blue spark at .750" gap @ atmospheric pressure.

 

Is it worth the savings versus an Onan module and Harley coil?  Time will tell.

Edited November 30 by jsoluna

[lynnmor 8,193]

1 hour ago, jsoluna said:

Well I can confirm that the sub - $100.00 aftermarket ignition system kit that includes the coil, condenser, and ignition module does indeed work.

 

I was quite skeptical after I opened it up and saw how drastically different the module was from the original.  

 

It required drilling new mounting holes and extending the wiring, as the wires exit the module opposite from the factory location.

 

The coil brass posts are not threaded very well and will strip extremely easily.  Luckily there is enough thread on the posts that you can stack some washers up and try again if you have stripped them at the base.

 

Longevity is yet to be seen. 

 

Spark quality is fantastic.  It will throw a bright blue spark at .750" gap @ atmospheric pressure.

 

Is it worth the savings versus an Onan module and Harley coil?  Time will tell.

The factory coil kit from Onan needs machine work as well and extension wire and a new bracket are included, the studs on the coil are also weak and will not be replaced under warranty if stripped.  The two coil studs are different sizes and you might have metric threads on the replacement.  You should have a "gasket" under the module, it is used to insulate some of the engine heat, older models didn't have it but you should add it.

[Handy Don 15,039]

[jsoluna 299]

8 hours ago, lynnmor said:

The factory coil kit from Onan needs machine work as well and extension wire and a new bracket are included, the studs on the coil are also weak and will not be replaced under warranty if stripped.  The two coil studs are different sizes and you might have metric threads on the replacement.  You should have a "gasket" under the module, it is used to insulate some of the engine heat, older models didn't have it but you should add it.

I did add an insulator between the module and the cover.  Appears to be for heat dissipation, as the module is case grounded through the mounting bolts.

[jsoluna 299]

Does anyone have a picture of the (2) spring washers under the lower friction washer on the hydro cam plate? (#9 on the parts diagram below.)

 

Just took this one apart and found what I think is a single domed, solid washer.  None of the parts diagrams show that.  Wondering if I have a previous owner "fix"....

 

I assume they are like spring/wave washer of sorts?  Or are they bellville washers?

Edited 22 hours ago by jsoluna

[ebinmaine 75,499]

Check  @cleat 's thread about his 416

[jsoluna 299]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Check  @cleat 's thread about his 416

Cleat's thread is fantastic. 

 

However, during the rebuild, he did not use the factory spring washer and tension washer setup at the hydro cam plate, so for OEM reference it does not suffice.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/110413-got-another-one-a-416-this-time/?do=findComment&comment=1253363

[cleat 7,888]

3 hours ago, jsoluna said:

Does anyone have a picture of the (2) spring washers under the lower friction washer on the hydro cam plate? (#9 on the parts diagram below.)

 

Just took this one apart and found what I think is a single domed, solid washer.  None of the parts diagrams show that.  Wondering if I have a previous owner "fix"....

 

I assume they are like spring/wave washer of sorts?  Or are they bellville washers?

 

Thanks Guys.

 

My 416 is going to foot control so removed those spring washers.

There should be two dome shaped washers that go in facing each other for spring action.

I wonder if your is missing one or they are just facing the same direction and stacked.

Likely either way will work so long as you can get the proper drag when tightened as shown below.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 19 hours ago by cleat

[jsoluna 299]

Thanks Cleat.

 

The washers are NLA, found some NOS and have them coming.  

 

I have about 5 hours of seat time on the tractor, so here is a bit of an update/explanation for why I'm looking at the hydro controls:

 

The engine runs fantastic after a good carb clean and replacement of all the ignition system components.  Hard to believe this is a 2000 hour Onan. I will still plan on a proper reseal/valve adjustment/500+ hour service but this will require pulling the engine, so I'm going to let that go in order to tackle the more pressing needs of the machine.  I do plan on an intake reseal before then just for peace of mind.

 

The four areas that need attention:

 

1. Steering - extremely sloppy.  Tie rod ends are shot, axle pivot is loose, steering gear backlash needs work.

 

2. Throttle cable creep. (Fixed) Removed the lever, drilled out the review, installed 1/4-20 bolt, washers, and nylock.

 

3. Charging system fault.  Unit overcharges.  Diagnosed the fault to be at the regulator output.  Will replace regulator.  For now, I have a Kohler regulator temporarily hooked up to keep everything stable.  

 

4. Hydro leak. So far, the only leak I see is from the side of the case, below the fan where there looks to be a casting plug.  Further analysis will require some deeper teardown.  For now, though there is not any leak that is so massive that I could see it being responsible for the amount of debris that it had covering everything. I changed the fluid and filter (they had an automotive engine filter installed 😐).

 

5. Hydro creep/lack of top speed.  Adjustment of the friction washers did not help.  Found one broken friction washer.  Plan is to rebuild the whole assembly.  At 2000 hours, it's just all ready to be replaced anyway.  I've taken it apart, cleaned and inspected, welded up some wear on the adjustment cam, and reinstalled. The spring washers aren't really a wear item, but it can't hurt to have new ones.  Will plan on new rod ends for the linkage and new bushing for the lever pivot.  Don't like the use of the nyliners, so depending on difficulty of access, I may elect for modification and an oilite bearing upgrade.  It now can reach almost full travel on the cam plate and will hold lever position much better.  Still a long way from being correct, but makes the unit much less annoying to drive.

 

6. Final electrical fixes.  Deutsch plug for disconnecting engine from chassis.  Get all dash lighting operational.  Fix rear light fixtures.

 

Lots to do, but it does run, drive, steer, stop and mow now.  Shame the owner let it get this bad.😥

[ebinmaine 75,499]

45 minutes ago, jsoluna said:

Steering - extremely sloppy.  Tie rod ends are shot, axle pivot is loose, steering gear backlash needs work.

 

I'll have the tie rods. You're all set there. As far as the axle pivot, at the recommendation of others on Red Square I purchased a reamer a while back. If I recall correctly it goes to 7/8 inch so I buy bushings that are 7/8 by 3/4. Not sure if a 520 is the same. I believe so. The steering gear backlash, there are a couple of great threads here on Red Square about that repair. I can get them out of my notes and post them here later.

[Handy Don 15,039]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Not sure if a 520 is the same.

520 swept spindles are 1” but earlier versions are ¾”, yes. 

[ebinmaine 75,499]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

520 swept spindles are 1” but earlier versions are ¾”, yes. 

 

 

Center pivot?

[cleat 7,888]

35 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Center pivot?

Front axle center pivot is 3/4 on all 520's just like the 300 and 400 series machines.

Only the spindles went to 1" on 1990 and later 520's and on 1988,1989 520HC models.

The 1988 and 1989 500 series outside of the HC models basically used the same front end as the 300 and 400 series machines.

 

[Handy Don 15,039]

 

Thanks!

[ebinmaine 75,499]

8 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I can get them out of my notes and post them here later.

 

Here ya go.