New Member, New to Wheel Horse & Now I Own a 656

[ri702bill 10,149]

There are 2 distinctly different mounting styles for Mid grader blades. The early ones mount like a mower deck, the later style mounts to the same Unidrive mount as a snow plow or tiller. That style seems to be preferred... Either one share the same complaint - they tend to be too light and rise up in use.

 

Painting the rims - better to mount your tires first, inflate them & check the pressure after a couple of days to see if there are any issues that require dismounting them....

If all is fine, then use the playing card trick on uninflated tires. Works just fine...

 

[Handy Don 14,787]

1 hour ago, BradKahler said:

an MA-1 quick attach system is used for the blade.  Is the mechanism circled in red an MA-1 quick attach?

I've never heard it referred to as MA-1, but don’t take that to the bank.

 

What is circled is often referred to as the “mid-hitch” and that one is of the early style. It uses an R-clip to lock the latch in either its open or closed position. Later versions used button/spring/disk lock system and an external lever for open/close that was a bit easier to operate.

 

The grader blade in the attached PDF is, I believe, the first one WH sold. It would work just fine with your tractor’s mid-hitch. Be aware that to adjust that blade’s rotation angle you must reach underneath the tractor to lift a latching pin and then reposition the blade. Later models had a release that you could operate with your foot while seated and use your other foot to reposition the blade. (Also note that the WH 50” blade, if you come across one, will not work--it is for long frame tractors only.)

[BradKahler 20]

Well....it looks like it's going to be a while before I need to worry about things like tires and wheels or a grader blade.  I decided to drain the oil in the gearbox to see just how much was actually there and it's condition and do a refill.  To say I was surprised to find that it only had water in it would be an understatement.  

 

Here's a short video showing the last of the water draining out of the gearbox.  I was so surprised by this that I didn't start taking the video until it was almost done draining.  The water was clear and there was NO oil in the gearbox at all.  Something else I found was the shifter will move side to side and will move forward and back a little on each side but will not go into any gear, I even tried rotating the input shaft to see if that would help.  

 

 

I'm sure the water came in through the rotted boot on the shifter.  

 

Another minor problem is the gearbox output shaft pulley is badly worn so I'll need to replace this pulley as well.

 

After discovering the water issue I went ahead and removed the gearbox from the chassis.  Any suggestions on how to start the tear down to see just how bad it is inside and what to look for?  Any thing to worry about when splitting the case?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

[BradKahler 20]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I've never heard it referred to as MA-1, but don’t take that to the bank.

 

This is why I was thinking the 656 used the MA-1 speed attach.  It looks like what is on mine.

 

 

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

What is circled is often referred to as the “mid-hitch” and that one is of the early style. It uses an R-clip to lock the latch in either its open or closed position. Later versions used button/spring/disk lock system and an external lever for open/close that was a bit easier to operate.

 

Mine uses the R-clips.

 

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

The grader blade in the attached PDF is, I believe, the first one WH sold. It would work just fine with your tractor’s mid-hitch. Be aware that to adjust that blade’s rotation angle you must reach underneath the tractor to lift a latching pin and then reposition the blade. Later models had a release that you could operate with your foot while seated and use your other foot to reposition the blade. (Also note that the WH 50” blade, if you come across one, will not work--it is for long frame tractors only.)

 

Thanks for the info.

 

[ri702bill 10,149]

OK - where to begin....

Did any metal pieces come out with the "liquid"?? Roller bearing needles or bits of gear teeth?? If so - expect a costly rebuild.

But first - to drain ALL the liquid, you need to elevate the front of the Unidrive about 45 degrees to allow the fluid to go over the hump inside....

Then you may wish to flush it  - some folks use Diesel fuel (me), others kerosene or ATF.

Then - the first hurdle - looks like the cast slot sitch is rust-frozen in place. Both the hitch and all of the 3/4" pin must be removed before splitting the case.

@stevasaurus has vast experience with Unidrives and has posted excellent tutorial info in the "Transmissions" section....

 

My flushing setup...

 

[BradKahler 20]

There was nothing in the water, it was crystal clear and nothing in the pan.

 

Thanks for the tip on elevating the unit to finish draining it, I would have had an oily workbench otherwise.

 

I'm not sure flushing will do much in this case because it's not in gear so only the input shaft is turning, or am I missing something?

 

I have not yet tried to remove the hitch.  I'll look into that first thing in the morning.  

 

I'll start looking through the transmission section.

 

Thanks!

Edited 9 hours ago by BradKahler

[953 nut 62,399]

1 hour ago, BradKahler said:

After discovering the water issue I went ahead and removed the gearbox from the chassis.  Any suggestions on how to start the tear down to see just how bad it is inside and what to look for? 

Here is the service manual for the transmission and a post that should get you started.

 

[BradKahler 20]

Thank you for the links!!!!!

 

Looks like I have some reading to put me to sleep tonight 

 

[BradKahler 20]

Quick question.  Is a puller like this suitable for pulling the hubs off the axles?  At the moment it's the only puller I have that is large enough.

 

[ri702bill 10,149]

You will also want to remove the hubs - first to have more room to get the hitch pin out, second to get the transmission apart.

Look up from under the hitch to see if there is a gap on both sides of the case where you can cut thru the pin with a Sawzall. Then you only have to deal with the pin in the case halves. Numerous threads have been posted on this. DO NOT try to drive the pin out thru the thin half - bad things can happen breaking the casting!!

[ri702bill 10,149]

Best not to use that on the thin "star" style hub... You need full contact from behind the flange - AFTER you remove the grub screw. Again, plenty has been posted on this very subject....

[BradKahler 20]

11 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

You will also want to remove the hubs - first to have more room to get the hitch pin out, second to get the transmission apart.

Look up from under the hitch to see if there is a gap on both sides of the case where you can cut thru the pin with a Sawzall. Then you only have to deal with the pin in the case halves. Numerous threads have been posted on this. DO NOT try to drive the pin out thru the thin half - bad things can happen breaking the casting!!

 

I haven't tried removing the hitch yet, I'll attempt that tomorrow morning. 

[BradKahler 20]

10 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Best not to use that on the thin "star" style hub... You need full contact from behind the flange - AFTER you remove the grub screw. Again, plenty has been posted on this very subject....

 

My hubs are round.  Does that make a difference with the puller that I have?

[WHX?? 53,046]

Ideally a bearing collar behind the very inboard side of the hub. Pic below is another method but yes as mentioned be carful since you will have the more fragile "star" hubs. Being a neub you probably don't have a spare junk hub tho. You can try the puller you pictured but with extreme caution. If it don't feel like its gonna go lightly don't push it. 2nd pic ask me how I know. 

My way now is to try and get what appears to be the easiest one to get off. Then split the cases which allows one to disassemble the differential and get the other axle out and to a press. 

getting hitch pins out and hubs off are a rite of passage here. 

 

Any issues STOP ...set the wrench down and slowly step away ...  and use a shout out. 

Edited 8 hours ago by WHX??

[Handy Don 14,787]

46 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

 

My hubs are round.  Does that make a difference with the puller that I have?

Not really. Round are somewhat stronger but not all that much. The force simply must be applied very close to the shaft. Remember this is a casting, not a forged item. A rare few have made 5-bolt pullers and had success. 

Many, many, many posts here on the adventures of hub pulling. Pretty much everyone considers it a rite of passage.

Edited 8 hours ago by Handy Don

[ri702bill 10,149]

5 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Pretty much everyone considers it a rite of passage.

And here is a list of what I call "The Wheel Horse Devil's Trifecta". In no particular order - You have not had the full WH experience until you have attempted and succeeded on all three - and you do not earn a Merit Badge either! Strap in and enjoy the ride!!!

 

Removing a Steering Wheel from the Upper Shaft. Some models are much more difficult than others. The goal is not to damage either.

Removing the rusted in place slot hitch and hitch pin. The goal is to salvage and reuse the hitch. Usually, the pin gets sacrificed and replaced.

Removing both rear hubs. The goal is to do so without damaging any components.

 

Honorable mention:

Replacing all 4 seals on the Unidrive with it in place.

Removing the exhaust stub pipe on the engine.

Removing the center pulley on a later 3 blade deck.

[ri702bill 10,149]

Notice the difference in the hub flange thicknesses. The puller utilizes a much newer thicker even-thickness design; the "star" refers to the backside of your flange - segmented thicknesses. A much more fragile design for removal.