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ebinmaine

T & E Stables' New Camper!

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ebinmaine

We cut the forward half of the top bunk out. This makes the middle bunk more user friendly with better light and space.  It also offers good storage space in the back, up top.  

 

Was:

IMG_20250927_140334.jpg.0ecb0d879e0a1991869dbe10e55317ff.jpg

 

 

Is:

IMG_20250927_170136.jpg.7078270736244c28bfd6f99611d69b05.jpg

 

 

 

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SylvanLakeWH

Curious, did you verify that the bunk wasn't structurally needed to hold the top of the wall on left? With these campers sometimes things are held together in very odd ways... :eusa-think:

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ebinmaine

Just for confirmation. @nylyon @Achto & others. 

 

I'd asked,

What systems are 12V or 120V? 

Answer: 

12V - Water pump, awning, all lights. 

120V - microwave, cooktop, fridge, AC & heat. 

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ebinmaine
Just now, SylvanLakeWH said:

Curious, did you verify that the bunk wasn't structurally needed to hold the top of the wall on left? With these campers sometimes things are held together in very odd ways... :eusa-think:

 

 

Excellent question. And yes we did. 

 

The 2025 model year had a bunk that was hinged where we cut it.  

Keystone Coleman stopped the hinging because several people mentioned that the hinging platform would close on its own while on the roads. 

We inquired on a 2025 model year but couldn't get it. 

 

There's a double cross member right at the end point of the shelf you can see. Bracing.  

 

The odds of us wanting the 4th bunk for sleeping aren't zero, but far lower than storage needs.  

 

If we ever decide to put the bunk back we've kept all the pieces in usable condition.  

 

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ebinmaine

Another fabulous modification we did was to remove a decorative panel from under the sink. Behind that panel is the wheelwell, sink inlet & outlet hoses, shower feed, electric cooktop plug... and THE best place in the building for friggin nasty meeeeces 🐁 🪤   

 

Removal of the panel allows a tad more storage space and - highly desirable to us - the ability to see water leaks and mouse 🐁 🏠 houses sooner.  

 

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squonk

Good luck with that awning. I can see the door bashing it in the front and someone's head bashing it in the rear. :helmet:

 

door.jpg.d12f4bff20fe6f6c078c5665a5f92d05.jpg

 

head.jpg.4532e1bb2bab50bd06e7123ae307523f.jpg

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, squonk said:

Good luck with that awning. I can see the door bashing it in the front and someone's head bashing it in the rear. :helmet:

 

This door has the stiffest hinges I've seen. It takes actual effort to move it all the way from closed to wherever you stop it. Hopefully that'll last and hopefully the door won't bash smash bend the awning frame. 

I took a brief look at the contact point there. Wondering if I could/ should add protection of some sort.  Maybe put a rubber baby buggy bumper on the door edge.....

 

 

The rear is higher than it looks. My head is the only one close. Will I hit it? You bet! :lol:  Came damn close at least twice yesterday. That may get a DOT Conspicuity Tape on it. And I'll still hit it.  

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953 nut
26 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

door has the stiffest hinges I've seen. It takes actual effort to move it all the way from closed to wherever you stop it.

The hinges are probably catawampus, if the hinge pins aren't aligned they will bind against each other. 

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The hinges are probably catawampus, if the hinge pins aren't aligned they will bind against each other. 

 

That was my first thought too but they're a long hinge. I'll check again but it'd be tough to misalign them. 

 

If they're outta line I'll fix adjust repair as needed. 

We don't need them to loosen because of excessive wear.  

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nylyon
17 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The hinges are probably catawampus, if the hinge pins aren't aligned they will bind against each other. 

They actually manufacture many of the new door hinges this way, in fact I can get a kit to add those to my RV and for good reason. Once when in S.C. I opened the door and the wind grabbed it and swung it opened so hard that the plastic door stopper mounted on the wall of the camper poked a hole in the door.  The stiff door hinges prevent that from happening, and I would bet is why Coleman used them in this case, also to hold it open when the awning is extended.

This is a really nice camper Eric, I was trying to convince my son to get something like this to pull behind his Wrangler.  I think you are on the right path to replace the cheaper tires with good quality tires, and if you can add a TPMS because most blowouts happen from under inflation. With the 120v systems powering the core utilities of the camper, I would definitely consider an inverter and Lithium batteries.  My understanding is that this camper is wired for an inverter already.  Generators are great, but some places don’t allow them past certain hours. 

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SylvanLakeWH
44 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Will I hit it? You bet!


Add a foam noodle to your camping gear. Cut to size, slit it and put it on the canopy support. Throw it in storage when not in use. I used bright green.


Does two things: 1) makes support visible, 2) adds softness to the inevitable head contact... 

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, nylyon said:

Generators are great, but some places don’t allow them past certain hours. 

 

Every campground we've been to had strict schedules for generator use. 

Never before 7 am, sometimes 8 am. 

Off anywhere from 8 pm to 10 pm. 

 

4 minutes ago, nylyon said:

With the 120v systems powering the core utilities of the camper, I would definitely consider an inverter and Lithium batteries.  My understanding is that this camper is wired for an inverter already

 

If you have links to share for what you might consider I'd be interested. 

I have an inverter here already but I don't know if it's big enough. 

 

Heating us or food won't be an issue. 

Fridge really won't be either considering the cooler we already have. 

 

The ONLY time we'll actually need the 120V on at night would be a hot summer when we need the AC. 

We have canceled/postponed trips because of it in the past. 

 

We would carefully consider the value of the purchase of batteries and inverter vs the actual limited amount of use they'd get.... but it is definitely a possibility. 

 

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Retired Wrencher

Wow, looks like you got it all figured out, buddy. Should be easy Peezy set up that camper. Got a little shower in it in the bathroom. What more could you ask for I like it, bud.

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ebinmaine

Today Trina and her momma put a piece of pine on the end of the cutoff shelf to keep things in place while moving down the road. 

IMG_20250928_134607.jpg.d61d9cf042d394d9cc93eadb4a3a85be.jpg

 

 

They also used some of the trim and block off panels to create a small shelf above the window. 

This will hold very light items only. It has a USB/C port just out of sight above it. 

Handy dandy for phones or other items to be charged overnight of we're connected to shore power. 

The piece of trim on the left is to block/cover old screw holes 🕳. 

 

IMG_20250928_141344.jpg.676f61bc47306171b48dfcf74358b39b.jpg

 

 

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Achto
15 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

It has a USB/C port just out of sight above it. 

Handy dandy for phones or other items to be charged overnight of we're connected to shore power. 

 

The USB port should be on the 12v system, thus no shore power should be needed. Plug your phone into it with the AC disconnected to check this. 

 

I added USB ports to my '08 pop up. Just spliced into a near by 12v power source.

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Pullstart

EB.  What about a small chain for the top of the door, like a screen door often has?

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

EB.  What about a small chain for the top of the door, like a screen door often has?

 

Decent idea. 

It would take a pretty fair breeze for this door to get away from ya though.  

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ebinmaine

Here's a video for ya in case ya need a nap.  

:lol:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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squonk
11 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:


Add a foam noodle to your camping gear. Cut to size, slit it and put it on the canopy support. Throw it in storage when not in use. I used bright green.


adds softness to the inevitable head contact... 

That's using the old noodle! :wacko:

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lynnmor

I suspect that your trailer plug and safety chain holder is mounted upside down and will allow rain to run in the back of the plug and also fill the cap over the plug end.

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I suspect that your trailer plug and safety chain holder is mounted upside down and will allow rain to run in the back of the plug and also fill the cap over the plug end.

It's mounted so the cord plug faces down. There's no plug cover on any of our trailers. We keep dielectric grease in our plugs 🔌.

 

I will check to see if that plug is sealed. Perhaps another point to silicone.  

 

 

 

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lynnmor
5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

It's mounted so the cord plug faces down. There's no plug cover on any of our trailers. We keep dielectric grease in our plugs 🔌.

 

I will check to see if that plug is sealed. Perhaps another point to silicone.  

 

I use this type because water runs downhill: 

 

s-l960.jpg.dd1ac5f8686b96537c79700cdd3c002e.jpg

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lynnmor

I may be late mentioning this but silicone sealant has no place on an rv, especially the roof.  Use only the recommended type for the materials used, ProFlex RV might be what you want.

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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I may be late mentioning this but silicone sealant has no place on an rv, especially the roof.  Use only the recommended type for the materials used, ProFlex RV might be what you want.

 

In principle I agree. 

 

It appears OE uses clear silicone for the entire assembly process. 

We were told by the Dealership to use "silicone"  but not a specific type. 

I'll clarify that.  

 

Trina's already been on the roof crawling around inspecting everything. She did find a crack/ slash/ cut in the silicone near the right front corner at the sidewall joint. There was also a pinhole in the awning that was obviously touched by something sharp during manufacturing. 

She applied clear roofing silicone (from my employer).

 

The other big thing is to keep it outta the sun.  

We have a tarp to be installed. 

Camper covers are obviously available... and all have bad reviews and/ or high cost.  

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squonk
8 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

It's mounted so the cord plug faces down. There's no plug cover on any of our trailers. We keep dielectric grease in our plugs 🔌.

 

I will check to see if that plug is sealed. Perhaps another point to silicone.  

 

 

 

Dielectric grease is an insulator. do not use it on electrical contact points like terminals

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