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nylyon

Shaking clutch pedal

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nylyon

Last week, the clutch return spring on my 416-8 broke.  The pedal had been shaking while the engine is running, and the new spring makes this shake more pronounced.  I thought I had replaced the belt and idler pulley a couple years ago, but not 100% certain and I don’t recall whether it was a toro belt.  What do you guys think, replace the belt and pulley again, or do I have something else going on?

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ri702bill

Inspect the belt to see if there are missing intermitent sections on the lower portion....

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Ed Kennell

Maybe check the engine drive pulley for an obstruction.   :confusion-shrug:

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8ntruck

:text-yeahthat: check the pulley on the transmission too.  Take a peek at the pulley alignment between the engine and transmission, too.

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squonk

Just about every WH I ever owned had a shaky pedal. Didn't matter how new or what brand the belt was. I work on hundreds of belt drives every year. The number of them that don't have a little defection or bounce  I can count on 1 finger.

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nylyon

Pulley’s looked okay, and I am sure if I replaced the idler pulley it would have been a Toro part.  When I checked the belt, there is one part of the belt where it almost looks like a seam, definitely a bump there.  I ordered a new belt, have to see if that works better.  I am okay with a little movement, but this is excessive.

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953 nut
4 hours ago, squonk said:

Just about every WH I ever owned had a shaky pedal.

:hide:                   I would feel a bit shaky too if I saw your big foot coming my way.             :ychain:

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squonk
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

:hide:                   I would feel a bit shaky too if I saw your big foot coming my way.             :ychain:

Remind me to tell you my Bigfoot story next year!

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Racinbob
Posted (edited)

I think you're on the right track replacing the belt with a Toro belt even if it looks good. I had the same issue when I purchased my 2005 Classic back in 2009. I'm blaming the lawyer approved clutch damper for it because it caused it to have a terrible 'feel' to the clutch engagement as well as pulsing it. Somehow the damper fell off but the clutch still pulsed quite a bit. I posted the issue here because the belt looked fine but a new belt was suggested. Put the new OEM belt on and everything was peachy. :)

 

Edited by Racinbob
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peter lena

@nylyon , would suggest going over  ENTIRE LINKAGE SET UP FOR MOVEMENT EASE , also verify spring pull / assist on  swing areas , personally like a penetrating oil first  , than follow up with a RED AEROSOL  GREASE / TUBE EXTENSION .  regular thing  to check out  , every related aspect  of  problem , drag / stoppage movement spot . bearings are the worst issue on  W/H  ,  next is  rust hold areas . pete  

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Lee1977

Most likely worn holes at the clutch idler frame. I have a 312-8 doing the same, can't get the roll pin out to fix it. I did fix my C-120 by drilling out the holes and adding 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD bushing.

SAM-0311.jpg

SAM-0315.jpg

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peter lena

@ nylon ,   almost sounds like  an incremental  bearing hang up  to me , possible idler pulley ?  tensioner  failing ?  pete

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nylyon

Going to swap out the belt first, if that doesn’t fix it I will start tearing it down more.

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nylyon

Put the new belt on this morning, very little movement now, much more acceptable.  More importantly, the clutch engages way smoother.

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peter lena

@nylyon , glad you  made a gain , usually find a related belt issue to rotational drag , even the slightest  drag  causes bounce , and related , issues , remember its not  one part , its every part . @Lee1977  have experimented with that  bronze bush area , like the SUPER LUBE , HYDRAULIC OIL / PASTE . areas used are  smooth / quiet / seamless . thats also very good on heim joint  swivel , ball . temp range on super lube , is  extreme , both ways , have that in all my  cabling areas , with  a spring assist , to  pull it closed ?  that way a spring always  assists movement . always  experiment  with INTENDED  FUNCTION , amazing what you can find , to  make things easy , reliable , pete    

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