Snow Blade Lift Linkage

[Krice58 90]

Hooking up the snow blade on my 75 C160 and running into a little issue with the lift linkage that hooks from the trunnion to the frame of the blade. The linkage I have is stripped out and won’t allow me to adjust and I was looking for a replacement. The original linkage the tractor came with is a Toro #102385 which is a solid l shaped linkage, the newer models use a Toro # 106522 which is the eyebolt with the chain. Are these interchangeable? The trunnion pin is the same number for both older and newer models, so I would assume. Any preference on which one to use? Original solid or newer chain style? 

[ebinmaine 74,594]

I personally prefer a solid connection with minimal loose movement.  

I've used both of the above, or solid link, or a chain about 11 inches long.

 

For a hydro lift the chain seems best. No movement at the ends. Less wear and tear. 

 

For a manual lift the solid link seems best. 

 

[Krice58 90]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I personally prefer a solid connection with minimal loose movement.  

I've used both of the above, or solid link, or a chain about 11 inches long.

 

For a hydro lift the chain seems best. No movement at the ends. Less wear and tear. 

 

For a manual lift the solid link seems best. 

 

I’ve got a hydro lift. So you think the chain would be the better option for that? 

[ebinmaine 74,594]

28 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

I’ve got a hydro lift. So you think the chain would be the better option for that? 

 

For my usage. Yes. My experience shows me that the chain offers a goos solid connection with appropriate length. 

 

You'll need to find a chain with the right size links or modify one to work. 

I may have one here I could send. 

 

Here's the 1975 C160 Automatic and how it's connected. Note the Grade 8 bolts 🔩 holding each end of the chain tight.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Krice58 90]

17 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

For my usage. Yes. My experience shows me that the chain offers a goos solid connection with appropriate length. 

 

You'll need to find a chain with the right size links or modify one to work. 

I may have one here I could send. 

 

Here's the 1975 C160 Automatic and how it's connected. Note the Grade 8 bolts 🔩 holding each end of the chain tight.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have the little 4 inch bracket that hooks from welded link on the plow frame to the rod/chain so it wouldn’t need to be as long of a chain. The chain on the eyebolt above would probably work okay. Beautiful tractor by the way, I love the cream and red contrast. 

Edited August 20 by Krice58

[Krice58 90]

4 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

 

 

Edited August 20 by Krice58

[ebinmaine 74,594]

4 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

I have the little 4 inch bracket that hooks from welded link on the plow frame to the rod/chain so it wouldn’t need to be as long of a chain. The chain on the eyebolt above would probably work okay.

 

It does. Also saves time connecting between the mower and snow plow frame.  

I only use a plow so the T-bar isn't on my tractor. 

 

4 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

 

Beautiful tractor by the way, I love the cream and red contrast. 

 

 

Thank you! 

That was our full restoration project a couple three years ago. 

The color combo is  Rust-Oleum 2X Sunrise Red and Cottage White. 

 

 

[Achto 29,888]

A solid link on a hydraulic lift will allow you to have down pressure. I can actually lift the front tires off the ground on C145 with the plow. This is good if you are scraping snow off from pavement, not so good for gravel. A chain will allow the blade to float when used on gravel.

 

My suggestion is going to be based on usage. Solid link for pavement, chain for gravel or dirt.

Edited August 21 by Achto

[Krice58 90]

I went with the chain setup because my driveway does have some high and low spots. 

[Krice58 90]

Also looks like I got a leaky lift cylinder, right where the piston comes out. Anyone know of a seal kit that would work? 

[WHX?? 52,930]

Guy here by the handle of @lynnmor used to have the seal kits. Other wise Lowell. 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/wheel-horse-hydraulic-lift-cylinder-seal-kit/

[Krice58 90]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

Guy here by the handle of @lynnmor used to have the seal kits. Other wise Lowell. 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/wheel-horse-hydraulic-lift-cylinder-seal-kit/

Thanks! 

[ebinmaine 74,594]

37 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

Thanks! 

 

If your own cylinder is the welded type he can rebuild it too

[Krice58 90]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

If your own cylinder is the welded type he can rebuild it too

I believe it’s the welded type. I don’t see a snap ring, just a flat face where the rod goes in. 

[Bar Nuthin 1,487]

1 hour ago, Krice58 said:

I believe it’s the welded type. I don’t see a snap ring, just a flat face where the rod goes in. 

 

I was able to stop my leaking cylinder (for now at least) by following @daveoman1966's process described here.

 

 

Edited August 21 by Bar Nuthin

[ebinmaine 74,594]

8 hours ago, Krice58 said:

I believe it’s the welded type. I don’t see a snap ring, just a flat face where the rod goes in. 

 

See below. 

7 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

I was able to stop my leaking cylinder (for now at least) by following @daveoman1966's process described here.

 

 

 

 

This was gonna be my next suggestion. 

I've never tried it but several others have had good success with this type repair. 

 

The Wheelhorse hydraulic system is relatively low pressure so external seals hold. 

[squonk 44,643]

Get that end of the eyebolt welded shut. The Hyd. lift will open it up like a pretzel

 

[adsm08 3,632]

On 8/20/2025 at 11:56 AM, Krice58 said:

I’ve got a hydro lift. So you think the chain would be the better option for that? 

 

IMO a chain is infinitely inferior. I've used them in a pinch, but it allows the plow to ride over hard packed snow or ice, while the solid link allows the whole weight of the tractor to push down on the plow and break that stuff up.

[Krice58 90]

Another question while talking about the snow blade. Anyone have any luck welding the blade? The serial number on the one I have puts it as manufactured in 76 and it’s definitely seen some use. My grandfather used it almost every winter for years but it’s been sitting for at least 20 years. 

[Bar Nuthin 1,487]

14 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

Another question while talking about the snow blade. Anyone have any luck welding the blade? The serial number on the one I have puts it as manufactured in 76 and it’s definitely seen some use. My grandfather used it almost every winter for years but it’s been sitting for at least 20 years. 

 

I've seen some videos of people welding on new bottom sections. Your picture looks like a usable blade.  There are plenty used blades for sale on FB marketplace. I'm assuming you don't weld yourself, or you wouldn't have asked the question. Probably cheaper to buy one than pay to have one welded up. I got lucky and found a NOS blade on FB for a fair price.

 

There's a few tips in this thread

 

[ebinmaine 74,594]

On 8/21/2025 at 10:23 PM, Krice58 said:

Another question while talking about the snow blade. Anyone have any luck welding the blade? The serial number on the one I have puts it as manufactured in 76 and it’s definitely seen some use. My grandfather used it almost every winter for years but it’s been sitting for at least 20 years. 

 

 

 

Being a bolt 🔩 on item you can either flip it and redrill or buy a new piece of flat steel. 

[MainelyWheelhorse 2,095]

Wheel Horse Parts and More has cutting edges for plow. However you may be better off and it may be cheaper trying to source one local.

[Handy Don 14,685]

4 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said:

Wheel Horse Parts and More has cutting edges for plow. However you may be better off and it may be cheaper trying to source one local.

Last year my son switched to a plastic wear bar to lessen wear and tear on the driveway and sidewalk surfaces. 

His assessment:

- Do not get ¾” thick material (go with ½”), the thicker material distributes the plow’s weight so much that it doesn’t “dig in” (he’s added weight to the plow for now)

- DO plan to “plane off” the bottom edge when you install it to have it hit the ground flat -- it’ll form a sort of “chisel” edge at the front. Otherwise, the upward-sloped bottom edge will cause it to compress and leave a layer of packed snow

[Krice58 90]

Gonna tear off this lift cylinder to get a look at it, how much fluid am I going to lose? Do I put a catch pan underneath for the long term or will pointing the cylinder hoses up keep it from losing all of my transmission oil? Also, should I turn the bypass out? I have to replace the transaxle pump gasket as well. 

Edited August 26 by Krice58

[cleat 7,666]

7 hours ago, Krice58 said:

Gonna tear off this lift cylinder to get a look at it, how much fluid am I going to lose? Do I put a catch pan underneath for the long term or will pointing the cylinder hoses up keep it from losing all of my transmission oil? Also, should I turn the bypass out? I have to replace the transaxle pump gasket as well. 

The only fluid you should lose is what is in the cylinder hoses and the cylinder itself.

 

If you do not actuate the valve it should stay closed and block the fluid from the supply and return hoses from the hydro unit from leaking out.