Snow Blade Lift Linkage

[Krice58 24]

Hooking up the snow blade on my 75 C160 and running into a little issue with the lift linkage that hooks from the trunnion to the frame of the blade. The linkage I have is stripped out and won’t allow me to adjust and I was looking for a replacement. The original linkage the tractor came with is a Toro #102385 which is a solid l shaped linkage, the newer models use a Toro # 106522 which is the eyebolt with the chain. Are these interchangeable? The trunnion pin is the same number for both older and newer models, so I would assume. Any preference on which one to use? Original solid or newer chain style? 

[ebinmaine 72,993]

I personally prefer a solid connection with minimal loose movement.  

I've used both of the above, or solid link, or a chain about 11 inches long.

 

For a hydro lift the chain seems best. No movement at the ends. Less wear and tear. 

 

For a manual lift the solid link seems best. 

 

[Krice58 24]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I personally prefer a solid connection with minimal loose movement.  

I've used both of the above, or solid link, or a chain about 11 inches long.

 

For a hydro lift the chain seems best. No movement at the ends. Less wear and tear. 

 

For a manual lift the solid link seems best. 

 

I’ve got a hydro lift. So you think the chain would be the better option for that? 

[ebinmaine 72,993]

28 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

I’ve got a hydro lift. So you think the chain would be the better option for that? 

 

For my usage. Yes. My experience shows me that the chain offers a goos solid connection with appropriate length. 

 

You'll need to find a chain with the right size links or modify one to work. 

I may have one here I could send. 

 

Here's the 1975 C160 Automatic and how it's connected. Note the Grade 8 bolts 🔩 holding each end of the chain tight.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Krice58 24]

17 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

For my usage. Yes. My experience shows me that the chain offers a goos solid connection with appropriate length. 

 

You'll need to find a chain with the right size links or modify one to work. 

I may have one here I could send. 

 

Here's the 1975 C160 Automatic and how it's connected. Note the Grade 8 bolts 🔩 holding each end of the chain tight.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have the little 4 inch bracket that hooks from welded link on the plow frame to the rod/chain so it wouldn’t need to be as long of a chain. The chain on the eyebolt above would probably work okay. Beautiful tractor by the way, I love the cream and red contrast. 

Edited 23 hours ago by Krice58

[Krice58 24]

4 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

 

 

Edited 23 hours ago by Krice58

[ebinmaine 72,993]

4 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

I have the little 4 inch bracket that hooks from welded link on the plow frame to the rod/chain so it wouldn’t need to be as long of a chain. The chain on the eyebolt above would probably work okay.

 

It does. Also saves time connecting between the mower and snow plow frame.  

I only use a plow so the T-bar isn't on my tractor. 

 

4 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

 

Beautiful tractor by the way, I love the cream and red contrast. 

 

 

Thank you! 

That was our full restoration project a couple three years ago. 

The color combo is  Rust-Oleum 2X Sunrise Red and Cottage White. 

 

 

[Achto 29,433]

A solid link on a hydraulic lift will allow you to have down pressure. I can actually lift the front tires off the ground on C145 with the plow. This is good if you are scraping snow off from pavement, not so good for gravel. A chain will allow the blade to float when used on gravel.

 

My suggestion is going to be based on usage. Solid link for pavement, chain for gravel or dirt.

Edited 15 hours ago by Achto

[Krice58 24]

I went with the chain setup because my driveway does have some high and low spots. 

[Krice58 24]

Also looks like I got a leaky lift cylinder, right where the piston comes out. Anyone know of a seal kit that would work? 

[WHX?? 51,911]

Guy here by the handle of @lynnmor used to have the seal kits. Other wise Lowell. 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/wheel-horse-hydraulic-lift-cylinder-seal-kit/

[Krice58 24]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

Guy here by the handle of @lynnmor used to have the seal kits. Other wise Lowell. 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/wheel-horse-hydraulic-lift-cylinder-seal-kit/

Thanks! 

[ebinmaine 72,993]

37 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

Thanks! 

 

If your own cylinder is the welded type he can rebuild it too

[Krice58 24]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

If your own cylinder is the welded type he can rebuild it too

I believe it’s the welded type. I don’t see a snap ring, just a flat face where the rod goes in. 

[Bar Nuthin 1,126]

1 hour ago, Krice58 said:

I believe it’s the welded type. I don’t see a snap ring, just a flat face where the rod goes in. 

 

I was able to stop my leaking cylinder (for now at least) by following @daveoman1966's process described here.

 

 

Edited 12 hours ago by Bar Nuthin

[ebinmaine 72,993]

8 hours ago, Krice58 said:

I believe it’s the welded type. I don’t see a snap ring, just a flat face where the rod goes in. 

 

See below. 

7 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

I was able to stop my leaking cylinder (for now at least) by following @daveoman1966's process described here.

 

 

 

 

This was gonna be my next suggestion. 

I've never tried it but several others have had good success with this type repair. 

 

The Wheelhorse hydraulic system is relatively low pressure so external seals hold. 

[squonk 43,940]

Get that end of the eyebolt welded shut. The Hyd. lift will open it up like a pretzel