1960 suburban 550 in need of help/info

[steelsmith 31]

so I have a 550 that is in need of some work/parts, It came with a snow plow, mower beck, and the original Tecumsch model H60  7518211 engine. The Tractor has serial # 28057 0n the plate, and the engine has #8347on its plate. But all of the electrical wiring and key are long gone and I need to replace them, the carburetor needs to be replaced or rebuilt  and the starter needs to be checked out to see if it will work.

So is there a good rebuild kit for the carburetor or should I go with a after market carburetor? Who would be a good person to get needed parts from?

Once I get the carburetor fixed  it will be time to start on the wiring/starter system, I have been looking but have not came up with the info I need/want to replace all of it . 

So is there someone/place that I have not found yet that would be a good starting point to go forward on this?

This tractor will be just for fun so it is not a complete restore, I'm still looking on line for more info but wanted to ask here as I know this is the place to go for help.

My thanks to all of you for feed back and help.

Joe

[953 nut 59,984]

This manual should be a goo starting point.

 

[steelsmith 31]

Yes the Manual is a good starting point and I have a copy of it but it is light on info for the 550 with the electric start. still looking for more info about that.

Thanks for the help.

Joe

[wallfish 18,091]

The original engine would have been a H55

Model   Year       Description Type                                                    Engine Model                 HP           Drive            Model

550      1960    Lawn & Garden Tractor Surburban      4-Speed      Tecumseh H55B-1170     5.5      Wheel Horse     5010

 

The H60 is still very close and that's what most people used for a replacement. Many parts can interchange too.The wiring on those old tractors is fairly simple compared to modern stuff and that basic diagram @953 nut posts all the time for a magneto ignition style should be sufficient to get you going. 

Try rebuilding the original carb first (depending upon the condition of it) Kits all come from china anyway so choose your poison wherever you get one. Spray it out good!

The starter can be checked quickly by using jumper cables. Ground the black to the engine block or starter housing and touch the positive red lead to the post on the starter. 

Beware -- that engine will start and run without any wiring connected to it so if you do it on the engine, don't have fuel in it unless you're ready. 

Points may need to have the contacts cleaned as they tend to oxidize over time. If it doesn't have spark to begin with, the points are located under the flywheel.

 

Edited July 22 by wallfish

[oliver2-44 10,715]

The Tecumseh diodes can be scarce as hens teeth to find.

I recall one member removed the diodes and  got his engine running.

Then after working others bugs out, inserted the diodes and got that electrical charging system working last. 

I have and H60 that I need to get running, so I've been collecting files that looked used for when the time comes.

Hopefully some of these files may be helpful for you.

Keep us posted as you work on it.

 

PS the H60is Identical to thee H55 except it has an internal oil pump.

For what its worth.....If your engine's oil wasn't maintained and has a lot of sludge built up, it might be worth removing the engine bottom oil pan and cleaning out the sump and oil pump.

I have an old Wisconsin that appeared sludged up and was I glad I pulled the oil pan on it.  The oil pump suction had a screen that was totally caked with sludge.

 

Lauson_H45D-HB45D-H55D-HB55D_IPL.pdf

 

Tecumseh H60-75063B H60-75064B IPL-A (1).pdf

 

Tillotson_carburator for HB55 Tecumseh.pdf

 

Tecumseh_3amp_charging_with_diode_and_fuse_panel_SM.pdf

 

 

 

[Handy Don 14,062]

56 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

I recall one member removed the diodes and  got his engine running.

 

As I recall, he performed careful surgery on the diode holder tubes. He opened them up, replaced the blown diodes inside, and then reassembled them. The only reasons for the big holders are to protect the small diode itself within a larger container and to make them easier to mount on the engine  

 

Diodes are inexpensive components and widely available.

Specs for a diode that is way beyond what’s required would be a 20A10

PIV (peak inverse voltage) = 1000 (vs. maybe 15 from the stator)

Continuous amp capacity = 20 (vs. maybe 4 from the stator)

 

Here’s an example from the Jungle site

Edited July 22 by Handy Don

[ri702bill 9,419]

7 hours ago, wallfish said:

Try rebuilding the original carb first (depending upon the condition of it) Kits all come from china anyway so choose your poison wherever you get one. Spray it out good!

There is a steel check ball in the emulsion tube that tends to rust in place (the closed position) and is not accessable. Once your carb is cleaned - before reassembling any parts on it , hold it up to your ear & shake it. If the ball does not rattle it is stuck and the engine will never idle..... Game over.

The idle circuit uses a tiny .020 or so diameter hole to pick up fuel. It is a diagonal hole located in the carb body threaded area just up from the main jet. It is very difficult to find!! Same thing - if it is plugged, it will never idle. I use  the twist wire from a paper tag to clean that out. Refer to the bottom diagram on page 10 - the idle and intermediate fuel transfer passage.

 

Tecumseh Manual 3-10 HP.pdf

[953 nut 59,984]

10 hours ago, wallfish said:

The wiring on those old tractors is fairly simple compared to modern stuff and that basic diagram @953 nut posts all the time for a magneto ignition style should be sufficient to get you going.

The 550 used a few components in its wiring that are scarcer than hen's teeth. There is a #3656 ignition switch on  for $ 80.00 plus shipping if you insist on going ALL OEM original. Then you would need to find a #3657 solenoid or modify the method of wiring a present-day solenoid. If you have a good original ignition switch and solenoid then the wiring diagram below is great for your needs.

 

The wiring for the 550 and the 551 is identical, the drawing below has been corrected by @gwest_ca to reflect actual wiring, the 551 diagram in the Owner's Manual was incorrect.

Or, as John @wallfish suggested you can get the job done for a lot less money by using a 103991 ignition switch and a modern solenoid. The second drawing uses the more modern and much more affordable 103991 switch and a garden tractor solenoid.

.

[steelsmith 31]

MY thanks goes to 

Wallfish  for the great info, adding it to the stack of info that will help the next owner.

Oliver2-44  I have made copies of all the manuals you posted , going to need a bigger ring binder.

Handy Don  Your post has good info that will be added to that bigger binder also.

ri702bill  Thanks for the info on what to check on the carb, there are points that did not know about before. Will be ordering a rebuild kit asap and will not miss the points you added.

953nut  There is no way that I could put that type of money into this tractor, don't need OEM parts for the grandkids to drive around the yard.

 

This tractor was running when I first got it, But it was hard to start and it is no better now. It has spark and will fire if it gets a shot of the caned spray, but will not pick up and run after that. 

I knew that  the carb was going to need some work, so now it 's time to spend money and get it done. 

 

Once more I wish to thank all of you for your info and help, I will keep this post updated as /when I have more to add.

Joe

[953 nut 59,984]

3 hours ago, steelsmith said:

grandkids to drive around the yard.

From on e grandfather to another, you should consider adding some weight to the front of the Suburban to keep it from dumping a child over backward and perhaps some sort of running board that will turn up at the rear tires to protect little feet and legs.

[steelsmith 31]

 

953 Nut,

So far all of the WH that we have gotten have been with round fenders , I have made  foot rests and a hand clutch for Emmett's 400 and added a 50# weight to the front . have a big back yard and would walk be side just in case when he was younger . Now that he's going on 11 he has a good understanding safety,

Emmett started driving his dad's  green 112 when he was 5 years old, I told him that crops are green and tractor's are RED when we got him this little red 400.

Thanks again for your help

Joe