6wheeler 669 #1 Posted June 24 Hi all. I picked up an Electro 12 and tiller attachment last year at an auction. I had the tiller on my C160 automatic but didn't like the way it is hard to hold it back. So, I put it on my C165 8spd. The problem I am having. And, it was the same on both tractors. I cannot get it to go in very deep. If I lengthen the cable, then it can't lift high enough. Is there a specific rockshaft I should be using? I have different ones. But, I wonder if a different shaft is needed. Or at least, a different style. Thanks guys. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 66,641 #2 Posted June 24 I prefer having no rock shaft. I find that there is not enough throw on it to allow lifting out of the ground and allow proper depth at the same time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,984 #3 Posted June 24 (edited) The geometry of the arm on the mid-tractor rock shaft gives the lift cable a bit over 3” of travel from min to max. The stock rear rock shafts had the cable trunnion attached at the outermost end and the implement attachments above that. This setup effectively shortens the travel to the implement. The rear rock shaft has three intended purposes (and isn’t perfect!): a) create a common connecting point for lifting different rear implements, b) accommodate easily-changed cable travel distances for different implements, b) lessen lift cable wear against the top of the transaxle. Possible solutions: - As @Pullstart suggests, cable directly from mid-rock shaft to the implement - Create a new hole in the rear rock shaft arm for the mid-ro-rear cable trunnion closer to the rock shaft pivot and then attach the implement lift cable farther from the pivot. This setup would give you greater cable travel at the implement for a wider lifting range - Attach the tiller lift cable closer to the tiller’s pivot point for the same result as above. Edited June 24 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 669 #4 Posted June 24 Thanks guys. Pullstart, could you show a pic of how you did that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 9,973 #5 Posted June 24 Up until about ten years ago I didn’t even know there was such a thing as a rear rockshaft. I used a straight cable on my Work Horse GT-1800 to lift the tiller. It would go high and low enough like that. I don’t think I would try that with a manual lift without the lift assist spring. Yes it would wear on the fuel tank/fender pan support bracket and eventually break. However this is after countless lifts. The cables used to be about 15 bucks each so it didn’t really bother me, I just kept extra cables in stock. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,708 #6 Posted June 25 (edited) This is how I have it set up on a C-120 with hydro lift and no rear rock shaft and it works pretty good. This is how a PO had it set up which didn't work for crap. From my research the 104823 arm was part of a kit used to adapt the the tiller to other models. No idea why it was used since the tiller had the bracket on top of the housing. Edited June 25 by WHX?? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 9,973 #7 Posted June 25 Lifting from the hood on that model tiller I believe gives a better mechanical advantage rather than the older models that lift from the tiller frame. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,708 #8 Posted June 25 3 minutes ago, c-series don said: Lifting from the hood on that model tiller I believe gives a better mechanical advantage rather than the older models that lift from the tiller frame. My thought as well given Handy Don's dissertation on lifting geometry above. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
