stevasaurus 23,214 #26 Posted June 3 Nice chatting with you today...thanks for that. The help and parts are here. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #27 Posted June 3 The trans is out and hanging from my cherry picker. Took the drain plug out and a lot of water came out, not happy to see that. Got it degreased and ready to take apart, but not today, I am tired. 1 hour ago, stevasaurus said: Nice chatting with you today...thanks for that. The help and parts are here. I also enjoyed the chat. Its nice to talk to someone that knows a thing or two about stuff. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,298 #28 Posted June 4 1 hour ago, UNBOUND said: The trans is out and hanging from my cherry picker. Took the drain plug out and a lot of water came out, not happy to see that. Got it degreased and ready to take apart, but not today, I am tired. I also enjoyed the chat. Its nice to talk to someone that knows a thing or two about stuff. Be sure to take pictures. I still think you are going to find some seized/ damaged bearings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #29 Posted June 4 Is there any tricks to removing brake drum? Have not tried yet but I am sure its not going be easy. What type of puller would one use? I am outdoors doing this and dodging rain drops, I have the hubs off, shift lever out and bolts loose on the casing. Soon as I get the drum off I am in, I hope. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,659 #30 Posted June 4 (edited) 1 hour ago, UNBOUND said: tricks to removing brake drum After leaving the penetrant on it for a couple of days, I used an inexpensive HF 3-arm puller (I drilled a divot into the center of the end of the shaft to keep the drive screw centered). I wasn’t going to put a lot of pressure on it and was pleased to see the drum come off without a lot of fanfare. Had it been a bit more stubborn, I’d have tried (in order): - some persistent light (to not damage the bearings) tapping around the edge of the drum (toward the case, not toward the shaft) - a piece of schedule 40 pipe around the shaft and light tap toward the transaxle case - heat on the drum (this will likely ruin the seal) I’d retry the pull after each of the above (the theory that sometimes a bit of tightening makes loosening possible! Edited June 4 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #31 Posted June 4 I got the drum off, it slid right off. As you can see in the photos, I need 2 axles with gears. Those gears shouldnt be welded on,right.The rest of the trans looks fine to me, the pinions dont have any broken teeth. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,298 #32 Posted June 4 You better pull everything out and check all of the shaft bearings or you're going to have to take it all apart again. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,298 #33 Posted June 4 57 minutes ago, UNBOUND said: I got the drum off, it slid right off. As you can see in the photos, I need 2 axles with gears. Those gears shouldnt be welded on,right.The rest of the trans looks fine to me, the pinions dont have any broken teeth. I see needle bearings laying in the slop. Your shaft and gear bearings are shot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #34 Posted June 4 I will check all bearings and replace seals. I found axles and gears on ebay for a 4 speed and the part numbers match a 3 speed. If you look at the axles on mine, there are no splines for gears to slide onto. One drawing I looked at showed the axle and gear as one piece. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,657 #35 Posted June 4 4 minutes ago, squonk said: I see needle bearings laying in the slop. Your shaft and gear bearings are shot. I think some of that is teeth from axle gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #36 Posted June 4 Those are pieces of the gears, the needle bearings are all intact. 6 minutes ago, squonk said: I see needle bearings laying in the slop. Your shaft and gear bearings are shot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,298 #37 Posted June 4 (edited) Some on the side look like needles. I have worked on these. Take it all apart. @stevasaurus what do you think? Edited June 4 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #38 Posted June 5 I plan on taking it apart to clean everything and will check it all. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,214 #39 Posted June 5 I think you found out why that trans is called a #5048...the welded axle gears to the axle. Nice chatting with you again. I'm learning things here also. I did not know about the bronze bearings for the outer axle. Looks like you are good to go now Gary...looking forward to pictures of the progress. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #40 Posted June 5 I may have a problem here. Axle is 12 7/8 long and two grooved for e-clips on each side of hub. Not seeing any like it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,214 #41 Posted June 5 WOW!!! Let me see what I can find out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,553 #42 Posted June 5 With the shaft having no splines, could a PO have used axle shafts from the early 3 piece transmission. Then welded them? But that doesn’t explain the 2 e-clip grooves. @unbound When buying used axle shafts get the Seller to measure the bearing area and tell you it’s not worn significantly undersize. The shaft is 1” and a few thousands wear are ok/expected. But some where past 5 or 6 thousand wear will damage the new seals I’ve learned the hard way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,214 #43 Posted June 5 Jim @oliver2-44 , just got off the phone with Gary and I think we got a fix. One issue is the length of his axles..12 7/8". He is going to grind off the welds and remove those axle gears. Send a PM to @Jake Kuhn and get 2 axle gears for a 3 piece transmission...cut off the shoulder and weld the new ones back on. We hope it is "boom-sha-ka-lac-ah". 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #44 Posted June 5 One gear is off, easy peasy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #45 Posted June 6 Got the gears off with minimal damage to axles. The bronze bushings are 1id x 1 1/4od x 1in and are a common size. The 1965 Lawn Ranger was only year that has bronze bushings. Waiting on a response from Jake for the gears. Napa is getting me the 9815 seals for the axles. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,214 #46 Posted June 6 That's excellent Gary. That tells me we are on the right track. I do have a old phone number for Jake...give it a couple days and I will try to call him. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,298 #47 Posted June 6 How bout a pic of all the bearings? These look like needles to me. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #48 Posted June 6 No needles, all the pieces were to big to be needles. I inspected them all and no missing needles. Photo of one side, other side was same. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,659 #49 Posted June 7 3 hours ago, squonk said: These look like needles to me. Teeth 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UNBOUND 58 #50 Posted June 7 Got the new bronze bushings today and dont fit tight enough in the bore.I was able to push them in by hand Loctite make a product to use for this but what other options are there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
