Throttle cable

[1968Commando 135]

Hello all, I need help with my throttle cable, if I push out the cable  to raise the throttle with the knob it is very stiff and hard to pull out once it moves out and I push it back in to lower the throttle it doesent move back in at all even with the knob bottomed out on the dash, and yes I do know that the cable isn’t hooked up to anything also with the cable dis connected from everything it moves in and out just fine  when the cable is connected it is hooked into the circular disc like the manual says 

Edited May 11 by 1968Commando

[8ntruck 7,565]

Might have a kink in it somewhere.  Another possibility is that there is some internal rust gumming things up.  Try applying some cable lube to both ends once a day for a few days.  The cable probably didn't bind up overnight, so don't expect lube to work instantly.

 

Good luck.

[Achto 29,144]

1 hour ago, 1968Commando said:

 

 

Things I see:

1 - you cable should have "Z" bend instead of a hook.

2 - Your engine does not have an extension arm on the governor wheel. Not a big deal but it is hard to fine tune your settings as a little pull on the throttle makes a big adjustment on your speed.

 

If the cable moves freely unhooked and not when it's hooked up, then maybe the governor wheel is binding.

[1968Commando 135]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

 

 

Things I see:

1 - you cable should have "Z" bend instead of a hook.

2 - Your engine does not have an extension arm on the governor wheel. Not a big deal but it is hard to fine tune your settings as a little pull on the throttle makes a big adjustment on your speed.

 

If the cable moves freely unhooked and not when it's hooked up, then maybe the governor wheel is binding.

That’s the thing, my wheel is binding and I don’t know why when I tighten the nut the wheel doesn’t move at all, then I messed with it some and it works I think my spring is on wrong can somebody send me a picture of how to hook it up properly? Ive spent 3 hours today messing with it and I’ve gotten little to no improvement 

[1968Commando 135]

1 hour ago, 8ntruck said:

Might have a kink in it somewhere.  Another possibility is that there is some internal rust gumming things up.  Try applying some cable lube to both ends once a day for a few days.  The cable probably didn't bind up overnight, so don't expect lube to work instantly.

 

Good luck.

Well the cable works fine, I did reroute the cable tonight and will hook it up completely tomorrow night 

[Achto 29,144]

57 minutes ago, 1968Commando said:

send me a picture of how to hook it up properly?

 

 

The wheel spins on a step on the back of the nut, if it is not on the nut properly it will get tightened against the block pinching it tight. The nut should tighten the bracket for the throttle cable but the wheel fits over a step on the back of the nut to allow it to spin.  I have had an issue where the bracket for the throttle cable was bent and rubbed on the wheel causing resistance. Had to straiten things out to cure that issue.

[1968Commando 135]

22 minutes ago, Achto said:

24 minutes ago, Achto said:

The nut should tighten the bracket for the throttle cable but the wheel fits over a step on the back of the nut to allow it to spin. 

Ok, can I get a picture of this I’m having a hard time imagining this in my head, also on my wheel I have a stud does that go above or under the throttle cable bracket? 

[squonk 43,141]

I take the nut , bracket and wheel off when painting an engine.  Then wire wheel them so they are nice and shiny and they don't get painted at all. 

Edited May 12 by squonk

[Achto 29,144]

6 hours ago, 1968Commando said:

can I get a picture of this I’m having a hard time imagining this in my head

 

The wheel fits over this step ring on the nut by the orange arrow. The face of this step ring tightens against the throttle cable bracket to hold it in place. 

 

 

 

[Achto 29,144]

6 hours ago, 1968Commando said:

also on my wheel I have a stud does that go above or under the throttle cable bracket? 

 

Are you referring to the stud by the white arrow? It looks correct in this pic.

 

[Racinbob 11,867]

I did this little modification to give it more throw. You must make sure that brass nut shoulder lets the ring move freely like the others have said. 

 

[1968Commando 135]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

 

Are you referring to the stud by the white arrow? It looks correct in this pic.

 

Yes I am, ok I guess it’s correct then 

Edited May 12 by 1968Commando

[1968Commando 135]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

 

The wheel fits over this step ring on the nut by the orange arrow. The face of this step ring tightens against the throttle cable bracket to hold it in place. 

 

 

 

Ok i actually had my throttle and governor assembly installed like you said and it’s on the step and stuff but it still dosent work right nothing moves like it should at all 

[1968Commando 135]

29 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

I did this little modification to give it more throw. You must make sure that brass nut shoulder lets the ring move freely like the others have said. 

 

Yes and I have set it up exactly how I’m supposed to and then it moves with no cable attached then once I hook up the throttle cable and the linkage wire to the carb I get movement but it’s very hard and when I pull the throtttle out to raise the rpm it’s very stiff and hard, once the throttle is raised I push the knob in and the rpm doesent slow down at all the arm isn’t returning correctly I don’t know why 

[peter lena 9,169]

@1968Commando  done a lot of experimentation  with  cable , related linkage set ups  ,always use a penetrating lube first in any cabling . make the rust run out / replace , also like SUPER LUBE  hydraulic oil , for a vertical run / drip thru , to verify smooth easy slide . at this point  , have regularly added an extension spring  at best leverage pull stage , always pulling to close / stop  ?  like having an extra arm , you can't push a cable , but having a motion assist  , is what you want  , to show you the way , have that movement  foundation on all my , stuff , once verified for function , makes a cable run much easier . have any  small perforated  metal trim ?  clip off a  strip / piece  , use a near by screw / light bolt , thats your  spring assist  pull point , to close the cable down . that way any cable movement , will always have the  spring to assist  slide to close . inspect / verify function movement  as you go , of course ,lube , most of the cables I see sound like a hack saw , on a rusty bolt , how could you possibly correct that ?  pete          

[1968Commando 135]

6 hours ago, peter lena said:

@1968Commando  done a lot of experimentation  with  cable , related linkage set ups  ,always use a penetrating lube first in any cabling . make the rust run out / replace , also like SUPER LUBE  hydraulic oil , for a vertical run / drip thru , to verify smooth easy slide . at this point  , have regularly added an extension spring  at best leverage pull stage , always pulling to close / stop  ?  like having an extra arm , you can't push a cable , but having a motion assist  , is what you want  , to show you the way , have that movement  foundation on all my , stuff , once verified for function , makes a cable run much easier . have any  small perforated  metal trim ?  clip off a  strip / piece  , use a near by screw / light bolt , thats your  spring assist  pull point , to close the cable down . that way any cable movement , will always have the  spring to assist  slide to close . inspect / verify function movement  as you go , of course ,lube , most of the cables I see sound like a hack saw , on a rusty bolt , how could you possibly correct that ?  pete          

Ok thank you 

[1968Commando 135]

@Racinbob @Achto I’m at a complete loss with this thing I don’t understand any of this everything you have told me could be wrong is right and nothing is put together wrong I am so confused I don’t understand here’s a video it all looks like it should work but doesn’t 

[1968Commando 135]

As soon as I tighten that I lose all spring what could cause this I’m trying to problem solve but I don’t want to mess the governor up and I honestly don’t know were to start I keep fiddling with things and nothing happens 

[1968Commando 135]

As I take a closer look I am realizing my governor has no movement soooo……I really hope it’s not internal

[Achto 29,144]

On 5/11/2025 at 6:27 PM, 1968Commando said:

I do know that the cable isn’t hooked up to anything also with the cable dis connected from everything it moves in and out just fine

 

I just looked back on your original post, after watching you video's it looks like every thing is working properly. Lets start over. Hook the linkage up from the governor arm to the carb. Loosen the governor arm on the shaft, pull the arm so that it holds the throttle wide open, turn the governor shaft full counter clock wise, ( clipping a vise grip on the shaft and letting it hang at about the 9 o'clock position helps to hold the shaft ). With every thing held in this position, tighten the bolt on the governor arm. Push the throttle all the way in, hook the throttle cable up, slide the cable casing forward in the clamp so that the throttle is tight against the idle adjustment screw, tighten the clamp down. When you move the throttle in and out make sure that the casing on the cable is not sliding in the clamp.

 

The spring on the governor wheel puts more or less pressure on the governor inside the engine. The speed of your engine is determined by the balancing act between the spring and the governor fly weights pushing against each other via the governor shaft.

 

 

 

[1968Commando 135]

Ok

1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

I just looked back on your original post, after watching you video's it looks like every thing is working properly. Lets start over. Hook the linkage up from the governor arm to the carb. Loosen the governor arm on the shaft, pull the arm so that it holds the throttle wide open, turn the governor shaft full counter clock wise, ( clipping a vise grip on the shaft and letting it hang at about the 9 o'clock position helps to hold the shaft ). With every thing held in this position, tighten the bolt on the governor arm. Push the throttle all the way in, hook the throttle cable up, slide the cable casing forward in the clamp so that the throttle is tight against the idle adjustment screw, tighten the clamp down. When you move the throttle in and out make sure that the casing on the cable is not sliding in the clamp.

 

The spring on the governor wheel puts more or less pressure on the governor inside the engine. The speed of your engine is determined by the balancing act between the spring and the governor fly weights pushing against each other via the governor shaft.

 

 

 

Ok I will try this and let you know

[1968Commando 135]

32 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

I just looked back on your original post, after watching you video's it looks like every thing is working properly. Lets start over. Hook the linkage up from the governor arm to the carb. Loosen the governor arm on the shaft, pull the arm so that it holds the throttle wide open, turn the governor shaft full counter clock wise, ( clipping a vise grip on the shaft and letting it hang at about the 9 o'clock position helps to hold the shaft ). With every thing held in this position, tighten the bolt on the governor arm. Push the throttle all the way in, hook the throttle cable up, slide the cable casing forward in the clamp so that the throttle is tight against the idle adjustment screw, tighten the clamp down. When you move the throttle in and out make sure that the casing on the cable is not sliding in the clamp.

 

The spring on the governor wheel puts more or less pressure on the governor inside the engine. The speed of your engine is determined by the balancing act between the spring and the governor fly weights pushing against each other via the governor shaft.

 

 

 

I’ve come to the conclusion that my governor is locked up and I don’t know why but unfortunately I’m going to have to tear it all back apart 

 

[WHX?? 51,223]

8 minutes ago, 1968Commando said:

I’m going to have to tear it all back apart 

Well just hold on there a minute. 

Pull everything off and start from scratch. with the brass nut off does the gov shaft move? You should be able to pull it out further and it should wiggle around. With it fully seated in it's hole in the block it should be able to rotate clockwise and counter clock wise about 10 degrees or so. You should be able to "feel" the flag tapping the end of the governor assembly. 

Is the shaft bent or binding on the brass nut? 

All things to check first. 

Here is a service manual,  governor systems  in section 5. 

I highly suggest you read it. It details the adjustment Dan mentioned. 

Get the governor working as should before even attempting to hook the throttle cable up. 

 

It was mentioned before straiten out the goofy hook on the cable and put a Z bend on the end. special pliers are available to do this. 

Check them out HERE

A worth while investment if you plan to continue to wrench.

 

I don't care for them but THESE are a bit more affordable. 

Engine Kohler K91 K141 K161 K181 K241 K301 K321 SM 1972.pdf

[1968Commando 135]

11 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Well just hold on there a minute. 

Pull everything off and start from scratch. with the brass nut off does the gov shaft move? You should be able to pull it out further and it should wiggle around. With it fully seated in it's hole in the block it should be able to rotate clockwise and counter clock wise about 10 degrees or so. You should be able to "feel" the flag tapping the end of the governor assembly. 

Is the shaft bent or binding on the brass nut? 

All things to check first. 

Here is a service manual,  governor systems  in section 5. 

I highly suggest you read it. It details the adjustment Dan mentioned. 

Get the governor working as should before even attempting to hook the throttle cable up. 

 

It was mentioned before straiten out the goofy hook on the cable and put a Z bend on the end. special pliers are available to do this. 

Check them out HERE

A worth while investment if you plan to continue to wrench.

 

I don't care for them but THESE are a bit more affordable. 

Engine Kohler K91 K141 K161 K181 K241 K301 K321 SM 1972.pdf 3.55 MB · 0 downloads

Ok let me go look at this nut real quick 

Edited May 13 by 1968Commando

[1968Commando 135]

@WHX?? this is what happens with the nut off you can hear the shaft tapping somthing inside the motor