(C-105 with Electric lift)

[Handy Don 14,082]

5 hours ago, ElectricApprentice123 said:

Critter waste products can be especially corrosive

[kpinnc 14,651]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Critter waste products can be especially corrosive

 

I usually drill a little drain hole in the bottom of my Kohler tins. Never understood why they didn't come with one. 

 

Mouse pee or wash water, it just sits down in the bottom and rusts away...

[oliver2-44 10,734]

@ElectricApprentice123 At the top of the Tranmission Section there is a pinned thread that has part numbers for all the seals and bearings. They are standard parts that you can get from any bearing supply. One of our vendors Wheel Horse Parts and More also has them for a good price. 

[AHS 1,546]

You got a heck of a deal! The plow blade and the RD mower deck are worth $200 all day! There is safety switches in the PTO lever, on the brake and on the seat. Great find!!

[ElectricApprentice123 27]

On 2/2/2025 at 11:14 PM, oliver2-44 said:

@ElectricApprentice123 At the top of the Tranmission Section there is a pinned thread that has part numbers for all the seals and bearings. They are standard parts that you can get from any bearing supply. One of our vendors Wheel Horse Parts and More also has them for a good price. 

Thanks!

 

 

[ElectricApprentice123 27]

I was able to spend a little time on it last night. I’m able to get 12 volts to the solinoid but nothing coming out of it, with no “control” voltage pulling the solinoid in. (Also proven the starter is good by jumping it out) Hopefully I will have some time tonight to dig into it.

I was able to get the engine covers bolted back on and the stale fuel drained out of the carb. Planning on replumbing the  fuel system and seeing if I can get her to jump to life before worrying about all the other repairs like the transmission seals/oil and the never ending list of small repairs I’ve noticed. 
Several of the flat tip screws (such as the ones that hold the belt guard or the shifter plate on) seem to have the head wallowed out so I can’t get a hold of them with a #4 flathead. Any tips to get them out without breaking out the cutting wheel? Thanks!

[RED-Z06 2,580]

2 hours ago, ElectricApprentice123 said:

I was able to spend a little time on it last night. I’m able to get 12 volts to the solinoid but nothing coming out of it, with no “control” voltage pulling the solinoid in. (Also proven the starter is good by jumping it out) Hopefully I will have some time tonight to dig into it.

I was able to get the engine covers bolted back on and the stale fuel drained out of the carb. Planning on replumbing the  fuel system and seeing if I can get her to jump to life before worrying about all the other repairs like the transmission seals/oil and the never ending list of small repairs I’ve noticed. 
Several of the flat tip screws (such as the ones that hold the belt guard or the shifter plate on) seem to have the head wallowed out so I can’t get a hold of them with a #4 flathead. Any tips to get them out without breaking out the cutting wheel? Thanks!

Dremel the slot a bit deeper?  Impact screwdriver?  I have a few "demolition screwdrivers" that have a hardened tip and full shank that I can set in and hammer on while i turn.

[ElectricApprentice123 27]

1 hour ago, RED-Z06 said:

Dremel the slot a bit deeper?  Impact screwdriver?  I have a few "demolition screwdrivers" that have a hardened tip and full shank that I can set in and hammer on while i turn.

That’s my #4 lol. Didn’t think about the dremel idea though. Once they’re out I’m going to replace them along with the missing dash hardware. 

[c-series don 10,036]

When replacing the fuel line I use a double barbed 1/4” fitting to push into the old line and the other end into the new one. Check to see if the old line is fastened anywhere, remove fasteners and then just pull the new line in while pulling out the old. Works like a charm and saves time trying to route the new line in.Glad to see you are saving that tractor. 

My C-175 was in similar condition last year at this time and after five months of on and off work it looks like this. 

Edited February 6 by c-series don

[ebinmaine 72,727]

5 minutes ago, c-series don said:

When replacing the fuel line I use a double barbed 1/4” fitting to push into the old line and the other end into the new one. Check to see if the old line is fastened anywhere, remove fasteners and then just pull the new line in while pulling out the old. Works like a charm and saves time trying to route the new line in.Glad to see you are saving that tractor 👍🏻

 

 

That's a slick move.  

[oliver2-44 10,734]

9 minutes ago, c-series don said:

When replacing the fuel line I use a double barbed 1/4” fitting to push into the old line and the other end into the new one. Check to see if the old line is fastened anywhere, remove fasteners and then just pull the new line in while pulling out the old. Works like a charm and saves time trying to route the new line in.Glad to see you are saving that tractor 👍🏻

I do similar and just duct tape the new line to the old line. 

[Thor27 835]

@c-series don that is one beautiful 175. 

[ElectricApprentice123 27]

After a hiatus due to the summer heat ( work gets busy when it’s hot) I had some time to tinker around more with it.

Back in February I ordered a new set of ignition components, a head gasket, fuel line, shutoff and a cheapish Amazon carb (planning on using it until I have time to rebuild the orginal one over the winter). 
Got everything installed, and found out that the fuel pump was not pumping. A little digging on the internet and I blocked off the oem kohler opening with some scrap Aluminum with a barb and converted it over to a vacuum style pump that I had laying around. (This plate will be permanent but I plan on cutting it down a little to make it fit better with some paint) Upon that repair it fired right up with some tweaking on the carb. 
Now that it’s running I’ve noticed some other issues…..clutch seems intermittently not returning along with the fact one of the tires seems to have a slow leak.
The breather is also leaking some oil and it seems the gaskets have been compromised so I ordered some of those.

The electric lift has  also seemed to stop working and some digging lead me to believe that the control relay has failed as it’s getting both main and signal power but not out putting anything. It seems that this is a fairly common relay and I’ll be picking it up today to continue.

after these are addressed I’ll move onto sourcing new isolators for the motor mounts, soldering the terminals on the headlights a little better and repairing the leaking wheel seal and transmission boot along with all the standard maintenance.

 

 

 

[Bill D 2,256]

Here's some pictures of the pump mounting plate I've made up.  Never going back to mechanical pumps.  Personally, I don't like electric pumps.

[ebinmaine 72,727]

9 hours ago, ElectricApprentice123 said:

sourcing new isolators for the motor mounts

 

Go to solid mounts. 

@PWL216 used some.  

 

@Achto or @WHX??

 

Zach Kerber racing??

[Achto 29,405]

I have installed the solid mounts on a couple tractors. No regrets.

 

Lowell sells them too.

 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/engine-mounts-for-wheel-horse/

[ElectricApprentice123 27]

Made some more progress on The C105 this weekend……

Found the transmission only shifts into Reverse or first. Drained the oil out and I was reminded of milk so I’m going to have to do some digging on how to flush the transmission.

I managed to get the plow hooked up and noted the overall stiffness of all the linkage so that also got added to the list. 
I still need to change out the throttle and choke cables as both cables and lever linkages are beyond saving. 
I also need to replace the front tires as one leaks out of the sidewall and the other has a slow leak. 
That’s all for now!

(video of it running for the first time in 4+ years)

 

[ebinmaine 72,727]

3 hours ago, ElectricApprentice123 said:

Drained the oil out and I was reminded of milk so I’m going to have to do some digging on how to flush the transmission

 

This is quite common.  

 

To drain properly,  raise the front of the tractor as much as SAFELY possible.  There's a hump inside the transmission case at the middle bolt. This gets most of the front fluid to the rear well at the drain plug.  

Let the front end back down. 

Reinstall drain plug. 

Fill with 2 qts of diesel, kerosene,  or an off the shelf motor flush. 

If possible drive the tractor for a minute or two each, in ALL gears. Do some figure 8s to get into the differential as much as possible.  

If it can't be driven at least do some manual operations to duplicate the above.  

 

Repeat raise front and drain. 

Repeat flush. 

 

Maybe twice?

 

Fill with 2 qts of 75W, 80W, ish gear oil.  

 

 

3 hours ago, ElectricApprentice123 said:

I still need to change out the throttle and choke cables as both cables and lever linkages are beyond saving

 

I may have some here for sale. They're universal replacement types that should work OK. 

PM if interested.  

 

 

 

[Gasaholic 297]

On 2/6/2025 at 7:39 AM, ElectricApprentice123 said:

Several of the flat tip screws (such as the ones that hold the belt guard or the shifter plate on) seem to have the head wallowed out so I can’t get a hold of them with a #4 flathead. Any tips to get them out without breaking out the cutting wheel? Thanks!

A bit late to the thread, you probably have things figured out by now, but For the ones where the sides are accessible, I often have good luck with a pair of 5WR Vice Grips (5 inch)  though if they are worn they will slip off the sides, but I can take a flat file to the sides to give it some place to grip , for others, I have used a sharp cold chisel and hammer on the heads which sometimes pops em loose, and lastly, a cut-off wheel mounted in a die grinder or 5inch hand grinder (or dremel) to cut slots for a straight screwdriver , and if that still don't come loose, cut the slots deeper until the screw head breaks off, then with tin removed I can access the stub of the rest of the screw with vise grips (Or, cut off the clip nuts and replace them) and always a little dab of never-seeze on the threads when putting them back together.