Pine board door help & ideas?

[ebinmaine 72,444]

We've been thinking about what to do for doors on the new workshop space. I've had some great conversation and thoughts from several people including @Handy Don.

 

We have plenty of  1 x 10  T & G pine. Rough one side, smooth the other. 

We have access to 6 or 7 free storm windows. 

 

 

 

The back end will need a single door. 

The driveway end will need French style doors for a wide opening. 

 

The main exterior boards will be vertical. 

I'm leaning toward 2 whole layers of boards with ledges and supports on the outside. 

 

There are no walls yet so size is very flexible. 

The windows are approximately 29W x 36 Tall. 

I'd figure the doors to hold those would be 36" wide (or more??)

Door height could be a little more than average. Around here a normal door is 80" tall.

The Wally Digger Backhoe custom @wallfish amazing machine is the largest thing to need access. With the hoe arm folded for driving it's all of my 6 ft. 

 

 

This is an online picture I found and modified. 

 

 

 

The black stripes are proposed hinges. 

 

We've never built an exterior door. 

Most of you are well aware of Trina's talent and skill level. 

 

We know we'll need good hinges, exterior grade screws, wood glue. 

 

We have long clamps. 

 

Thoughts comments questions suggestions ideas etc ??

 

 

 

[ri702bill 9,358]

My 2 cents - concerns are warpage and security. I would seal ALL surfaces, sides and edges before assembly. Is the framed glass to be retained by clips from the inside, like in a storm door?? The glass does not add to the integrity of the door.

Edited May 4, 2024 by ri702bill

[Racinbob 11,919]

Looks good Eric. One little thing though. I know it's just a picture with magic marker hinges but if you build the real mccoy just like that the diagonal member would be more effective if it went from the bottom hinge corner to the latch area. If you want an X pattern put the two pieces in from the bottom left to the center hinge. Better yet dado the area where they cross by half the thickness of the boards and tie them together. 

 

I'm enjoying this build thread and Trinas thought process along the way. Looks great! 

[ebinmaine 72,444]

19 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

the diagonal member would be more effective if it went from the bottom hinge corner to the latch area.

 

Definitely agreed. 

That pic was a little tough to hand draw from the opposite direction.  

The diagonal braces would be oriented as you said and opposing one another. 

 

 

23 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

My 2 cents - concerns are warpage and security. I would seal ALL surfaces, sides and edges before assembly. Is the framed glass to be retained by clips from the inside, like in a storm door?? The glass does not add to the integrity of the door.

 

Warpage shouldn't be too bad because we've had the boards seasoning in a straight rack for a year and a half. 

ALL edges will be glues during assembly. Including the T & G joints. 

 

I've done some questioning on the glass. 

The glass will be left IN the metal frames. 

Each door will have a pair of glass panels sandwiched to form a double pane. 

The frames will be held in with commercial grade silicone. That'll be the fastening device along with an air lock,  with the exception of a drain at the bottom somewhere. 

@Handy Don I'd like your input here in particular: 

I did have a suggestion of leaving some silica desiccant between the panels instead of a drain whole. 

 

Using the silicone as a fastener for the glass panels will actually make the glass a structural piece instead of a detrimental loose part of the assembly. 

 

 

[lynnmor 7,802]

Unless the two window panes are completely sealed, you should make one pane easily removable for cleaning.  Bugs, dust, algae and mold WILL find their way in there.  A beefy X in the bottom half is necessary with the top being mostly a window, I have a factory built wood door in a garage, it is unbelievable how much it sags and needs refitting over the years.

[Racinbob 11,919]

One thing I do when building doors with T&G boards is try to alternate graining. I know the T&G forces you to install them in a certain direction but you still will have the variances in the graining. I agree that the way you stored the boards will help a lot but you still will have some warpage over time. I would think minimal is this case.

 

You know that the best of the commercially built thermopane windows still have a pretty low R value as compared to an insulated wall. I have built countless doors for projects like this. Some with windows, some without. Trying to build a thermopane window in the shop just doesn't work. I won't even say sooner or later. Much sooner than you expect you will have moisture between the panes. It's inevitable. Now how do you get to it?  The best method I've found is not to worry much about the U or R since this isn't a house is to use a single pane of tempered glass. I have used double panes a few times but don't try to seal them. Trying to seal it won't work for long and I want one easily removable for cleaning. Silica desiccant between the panels won't work either. It would require replacement since it absorbs just so much. You can dry it and reuse but you have to be able to get to it. I've never tried it for these reasons. 

 

Personally I wouldn't take any structural integrity from the window into consideration. The door should be built to handle the window. 

 

Just my ¢¢ with a penny change. 

 

 

[ri702bill 9,358]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Using the silicone as a fastener for the glass panels will actually make the glass a structural piece instead of a detrimental loose part of the assembly. 

Fine & dandy until you break one........

[EB-80/8inPA 1,846]

1 hour ago, Racinbob said:

but if you build the real mccoy just like that the diagonal member would be more effective if it went from the bottom hinge corner to the latch area.

Yes. @ebinmaine, that wooden member wants to be in compression.  I can also attest that repurposed storm windows kinda suck.  You could take them apart and salvage the glass, cutting to suit if it isn't tempered, and it was once possible to buy self sealing gasket material with dessicant to make your own insulated panels, but as Racinbob noted, your results may prove less than satisfactory.  Sometimes it winds up costing more in the long run trying to be too frugal.  Good luck!

[ebinmaine 72,444]

Interesting and appreciated comments on the home shop made insulating glass units.  

 

After doing a few minutes research it looks like the R value is nearly unchanged from 1 pane to 2 unless professionally built. 

 

 

[Racinbob 11,919]

21 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Interesting and appreciated comments on the home shop made insulating glass units.  

 

After doing a few minutes research it looks like the R value is nearly unchanged from 1 pane to 2 unless professionally built. 

 

 

Perzackly. The inert gas does make a difference. Another option is go to a Menards and check their windows out. I would never use their windows in a house but you could look at their economy windows and find a double hung unit with the glass area that suits you. Carefully disassemble it and you'll end of with two frameless thermopane windows. It won't break the bank and you'll have a replacement on hand. 

[Beap52 1,401]

Our local lumber yard often times has exterior steel doors, slightly damaged.  Sometimes with or without frames. These can be bought pretty cheap.  I've made frames and with some forethought the frames can utilize the modern weatherstripping making them pretty efficient. 

[ebinmaine 72,444]

14 minutes ago, Beap52 said:

Our local lumber yard often times has exterior steel doors, slightly damaged.  Sometimes with or without frames. These can be bought pretty cheap.  I've made frames and with some forethought the frames can utilize the modern weatherstripping making them pretty efficient. 

 

 

I've looked. 

Here in Maine the building industry is quieting some but still BOOMING. 

I can't touch a usable (but worn) door slab for less than $200. 

For that price I'd just go get a new storm door $300 instead. 

Inexpensive exterior doors start around $400. Cheaply made.  Too cheap.  

 

That's why I'd rather try to build one here.