C-85 653 #1 Posted April 21 I have a '81 C145A and I'm attempting to do some work on its Kohler engine. The numbers on the tractor are 01-14KE02. The numbers on the engine are gone, so I've tried to find Kohler info on the web. I found this (below) on the Toro site and it shows this as having a K321AS, spec number 30373d. This seemed simple, but I haven't found much with the K321'AS' part, and nothing for the 30373d spec number either. I have no idea of what the AS part is or if that is needed to identify it. I've taking some of the engine apart, it appears to have a standard piston that is worn. I'm hoping to find a .003 oversize piston and rings, and could use some help! C-85 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,564 #2 Posted April 21 36 minutes ago, C-85 said: I have no idea of what the AS part is or if that is needed to identify it AS signifies electric start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,513 #3 Posted April 21 Believe the A is for shallow oil pan. Looks like the spec number is a typo. Should be 60373 https://www.partstree.com/models/k321-60373-kohler-k-series-engine-made-for-wheel-horse-14hp-10-4kw/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,363 #4 Posted April 21 A qualified rebuilder like @richmondred01 can tell you more, but here is my ... ACCURATE bore dimensions are needed to determine the extent of cylinder wear. Things like Bore size - measured 90 degrees apart at the top, middle and bottom of the stroke. That will also give clues to either taper or out-of-roundness in the bore. Also need to look at scuffing or vertical wall grooves. You might be disapointed, but you may have to bite the bullet and go .010 over on the bore & piston / rings. Don't forget the same for the crank..... condition of the valves & guides??? Can get expensive rather quickly.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-85 653 #5 Posted April 21 This is extremely helpful, I can't believe the Toro site has the wrong numbers! I had an idea the experts on this site would be able to help! I'm not sure if I'm going to go the whole route or not, I was thinking of gambling on that the .003 would work. The rods crank bearing looks perfect, and the cylinder has some wear, but no drastic damage, so we'll see. Thanks so much! C-85 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,208 #6 Posted April 21 3 minutes ago, ri702bill said: A qualified rebuilder like @richmondred01 can tell you more, but here is my ... ACCURATE bore dimensions are needed to determine the extent of cylinder wear. Things like Bore size - measured 90 degrees apart at the top, middle and bottom of the stroke. That will also give clues to either taper or out-of-roundness in the bore. Also need to look at scuffing or vertical wall grooves. You might be disapointed, but you may have to bite the bullet and go .010 over on the bore & piston / rings. Don't forget the same for the crank..... condition of the valves & guides??? Can get expensive rather quickly.... Bill is 100% correct. take it down to the bare block, bore, grind the crank, grind the valve seat, ream new guides. 98% of all the engines I do now need that work done. Do it right the first time. Do waste your time doing a half smacked job. It will come back and bite you in the bum. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,513 #7 Posted April 21 When ever piston or valve work is done the increased compression can result in crankshaft failure. They all wear together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,363 #8 Posted April 21 42 minutes ago, richmondred01 said: It will come back and bite you in the bum. Some folks actually enjoy that when it happens!! Excellent cross-hatch on that bore in your picture to seat the rings..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,208 #9 Posted April 21 55 minutes ago, C-85 said: This is extremely helpful, I can't believe the Toro site has the wrong numbers! I had an idea the experts on this site would be able to help! I'm not sure if I'm going to go the whole route or not, I was thinking of gambling on that the .003 would work. The rods crank bearing looks perfect, and the cylinder has some wear, but no drastic damage, so we'll see. Thanks so much! C-85 When you say the rods crank bearing? Do you mean the crankshaft journal? What did the micrometer read? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,988 #10 Posted April 21 If you're going to keep this tractor and work it, don't "horse " around. Get it bored, new guides and valves and get the crank checked. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill 633 770 #11 Posted April 22 (edited) 21 hours ago, gwest_ca said: When ever piston or valve work is done the increased compression can result in crankshaft failure. Edited April 22 by Wild Bill 633 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
