"Manic-Mechanic" 1,192 #1 Posted April 13 New battery Sept 2023, seemed fine last Season. Went to start the other day after sitting months, dead, 0v! (Quick charge for grins & giggles) 13v Started, charged off generator awhile, seemed fine. Then it failed on start, dropped to 10v! Removed it, tested again, 12.26 v? Odd, bad cell? Dropped off to the Vender for long charge and test this morning I tried to explain but salesman/tech said it reads 12v it’s dead, something killed it. My electrical system has no drain, really anxious to see the results. Machine should discover a bad cell The isn’t a whole lot going on in this circuit with ignition off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,980 #2 Posted April 13 Check the wire underneath the regulator that goes to the "a terminal " of the generator. I have seen a lot of those burn't causing all kinds of issues. I have also seen issues with the generator itself. It will start and charge fine but draw juice out of the battery when turned off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,903 #3 Posted April 13 If there is a drain, you will see a spark when you disconnect the battery. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,360 #4 Posted April 13 There are 2 mechanical relays inside the voltage regulator. One gets energized and goes from NO to NC to allow curent to pass when the key is on. Key off- it must reopen. Only had one where the contacts were "welded" together, allowing the battery to discharge. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,822 #5 Posted April 13 It's a shame when everyone wants to electrify earth, the battery quality has gone to crap. I don't think it matters what brand you buy anymore. They all are substandard to even 10 years ago. I find Anderson connectors very helpful. You can buy them on the Jungle site. I have them on every one of my tractors. For one thing, they make swapping batteries a 60-second job. But also if one is gonna sit for two weeks or more, it's a quick disconnect just in case. I've never had one fail, and they are Kevin-proof. They can't be connected wrong. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,192 #6 Posted April 13 2 hours ago, ri702bill said: There are 2 mechanical relays inside the voltage regulator. One gets energized and goes from NO to NC to allow curent to pass when the key is on. Key off- it must reopen. Only had one where the contacts were "welded" together, allowing the battery to discharge. I checked, functioning 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,192 #7 Posted April 13 4 hours ago, squonk said: Check the wire underneath the regulator that goes to the "a terminal " of the generator. I have seen a lot of those burn't causing all kinds of issues. I have also seen issues with the generator itself. It will start and charge fine but draw juice out of the battery when turned off. I checked, it’s good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,192 #8 Posted April 13 3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: If there is a drain, you will see a spark when you disconnect the battery. I checked there as well, no spark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,192 #9 Posted April 13 (edited) I do know that there is continuity from A to ground on the generator, is that normal? I mean the Green goes there from the back of the regulator so it would have to be Edited April 13 by "Manic-Mechanic" Addition Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,086 #10 Posted April 13 @kpinnc agree with you on the connectors , also battery connection detailing , batteries have been good to me , regularly , touch them up with plug in battery tender , also don't have any newer horses , with related / extensive wiring set ups / failures . cable wrap all my stuff / re route original , tight / chafing / shorting issues . pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,192 #11 Posted April 13 2 minutes ago, peter lena said: @kpinnc agree with you on the connectors , also battery connection detailing , batteries have been good to me , regularly , touch them up with plug in battery tender , also don't have any newer horses , with related / extensive wiring set ups / failures . cable wrap all my stuff / re route original , tight / chafing / shorting issues . pete It’s pristine 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,086 #13 Posted April 14 @Manicmacanic like a dielectric , lubricant in a metal / rubber contact area , for a sliding ease . super lube , comes in a liquid / paste form , also terrific in / on choke / throttle cables , have also added , very light extension springs , to those cables , for a pull to close action , so there is always a cable assist . that experiment , was cable ease cure , to make cables slide with ease . have that set up on 3 horses , smooth / easy function . just related info , BTW my grandson , is a now flying crew chief , on a c-130 j , will graduate in early may , proud GRAMPA , he is USMC , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,086 #14 Posted April 14 @Manicmacanic note , light spring pull on cable mount point , when you add a PREFORATED metal go to point , those springs / lubricant , makes those cables respond with ease , lots of hours on this set up , just an idea , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,802 #15 Posted April 14 I guess we are waiting on the results of the battery test, it just might be that the battery is toast. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
