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Josie

Just bought my first wheelhorse 520h

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Red-Bovine

Nice Find. The Onan is actually a pretty good motor. They have a history of valve seats getting loose and causing zero compression in the affected cylinder. Mine started doing that around 600 hrs. We eventually repowered with a Honda V twin after three incidents with valve seats. I have heard it helps to run at fast idle for a few minutes before shutting down. That cools the heads a bit and may help the valve seat issue. Good luck with the unit and accessories.

 

 

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Achto

:WRS:

 

Nice find with very low hours !! The Onan is a great engine, just not very fuel efficient, and kind of expensive when repairs are needed. Make sure that all of the cooling fins on the cylinders are clean. It is best to run 3/4 or greater throttle to maintain cooling.

22 minutes ago, Josie said:

Also, I found a kwik way loader for it

 

One thing to consider with the loader - You would need to remove the loader in order to most of the other attachments that you have. Most people have a dedicated tractor just for a loader.

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Handy Don

You have gotten a reasonable deal on a good tractor. Learn to search this site for manuals and posts that address questions you might have--LOTS of good info in the years of postings stored here. And don’t be afraid to start a thread and ask, just as you did here!

 

Preventative maintenance on the Onan will go a long way to extending its life. MANY of these engines deliver over 1,000 hours of good service.

The most risk, in my opinion, is not having adequate cooling airflow, especially on the rear cylinder. Address this in two main ways:

 

1. Keep the cooling fins clean and unclogged. This means removing the shrouds so you can get a good look and access to clean as needed. If you are mowing dry grass, for example, this might be an annual chore. Clean also means clean oil filter changes. When changing the filter, be extra careful not to let oil drip inside the shroud (the service manual gives good guidance). Drips will find their way to coating the rear fins and collecting dust/debris which prevent good cooling.

 

2. Keep the gasket that seals the engine oil filter to the shroud in place and intact. This is an inexpensive part and worth every penny as it keeps cooling air from escaping before it has a chance to cool the rear cylinder head.

Edited by Handy Don
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rjg854

:WRS:   @Pullstart or @ebinmaine will be along with a link for new to me tractors.  That will be a good place to start.  I also think that is a good deal for what you bought.  

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WHX??

:WRS:

You have a nice low hour 520 there. Plenty of experts here to help you maintain it. 

Like Dan said about a loader is you would need a separate tractor for it. They do not attach or come off easily and once on it is wise to leave it on. No other implements other than pull behind can be used with it attached. 

 

I see you are in Wisconsin. Whereabouts? Always nice to have another cheese head! 

Edited by WHX??
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lynnmor

A valve seat can be loose and still check good on compression till they are totally wasted.  I have had only one loose seat and I discovered it right after purchasing the used engine, it was caused by a complete blocking of the cooling fins by mud dauber wasps.

 

Run the engine full throttle when working it hard.  Mowing will have grass covering the inlet screen, I need to brush it off every few minutes under certain conditions.  Brush grass off in a way that pushes less inside.

 

One problem is the plastic flyball spacer coming loose or cracking, if you ever find the engine speed running away, shut it down and replace the spacer.  Information on how to do it can be found at this link.  I would print it out before it disappears.  Since you will have a real interest in keeping this running, especially if you get the loader, II would lay in a metal replacement available on Ebay and they too may disappear at some point.

 

EDIT: In step 18 of the above information link the governor shaft is missing the tiny ball that goes under it.  The fork shown under the left end of the yellow arrow should be centered with the pin.

 

Onans are a quality engine that can run thousands of hours if they are treated right, but who does that?

Edited by lynnmor

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lynnmor
49 minutes ago, Achto said:

One thing to consider with the loader - You would need to remove the loader in order to most of the other attachments that you have. Most people have a dedicated tractor just for a loader.

 

Before I had a dedicated tractor for the loader, I made the loader easy to remove.  I added quick disconnects on the hoses and modified the rear of the subframe so it went into the plow/tiller bracket.  Install and removal was about 15 minutes each.  A buyer of a loader should ask for the storage stands or he will need to make them.  A potential buyer should download the loader manual to see what I am talking about.

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kwalshy

:text-welcomewave:  Congratulations on your 520H.    I would recommend you learn more about the 9 pin Molex electrical connector that has caused many of us grief.  Inspect it and I recommend you prep to replace it proactively or have issues when you really don't want them.  Other than that, it is a great engine, but definitely thirsty.

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/71801-9-pin-connectors/

 

I love my 520H and it's been a great machine.  I hope to keep it in the family for another generation.

Edited by kwalshy
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SylvanLakeWH

:text-welcomeconfetti:

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Pullstart
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

buyer of a loader should ask for the storage stands or he will need to make them


Or she… :text-welcomeconfetti: @Josie!


 

check out this link… it’ll get you pretty familiar with your new machine!

 

 

 

 

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Josie

Wow thank you, lots and lots of good info. I would definitely like to be proactive in keeping it running. My brother in law is pretty good with this stuff I'll be sure to share all this and we can figure it out together.

 

Good to know about the loader. I wouldn't really want to keep it on all the time I imagine that consumes a lot more fuel huh? Oh but it sure would be handy to have... Oh well. We do have a John Deere 60 with a trip bucket loader, I'll have to learn to use that.

 

I am in northern Wisconsin up near lake Superior! That played into my decision to go for this machine. I don't want to be driving 8 hours to get this and that attachment! And it's one of the only garden tractors for sale I found with a tiller. 

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Josie
1 hour ago, Pullstart said:


Or she… :text-welcomeconfetti: @Josie!


 

check out this link… it’ll get you pretty familiar with your new machine!

 

 

 

 

This is a great checklist! Thank you! Is 1990 considered early or late model?

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JERSEYHAWG /  Glenn

Great find. Best of luck....:notworthy:

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Pullstart
1 hour ago, Josie said:

This is a great checklist! Thank you! Is 1990 considered early or late model?


Pretty much late model, in the realm of Wheel Horse.  

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gwest_ca
56 minutes ago, Josie said:

This is a great checklist! Thank you! Is 1990 considered early or late model?

Early and late are loose terms for a model name that has more than one model number for a given model year.

If you see an early you know there is also a late. Often the manuals are different so one knows to expand the search.

Many cases we do not know why there are additional model numbers.

One that eluded us for a long time was a bearing change in the transmission. Same tractor but different model number creating an early and late model.

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