Jimmy66 39 #1 Posted February 2 Well I finally got my Kohler running, and am now ready to address the transmission on the Raider 12 I've been workin on. When I bought it I was told it was found sitting underwater and it sure looks like it. There's about a quarter inch of sludge/silt in the bottom of the gearbox. Everything works as it should but it did find axle needle bearings missing on one side. My biggest concern is the input shaft. It seems frozen and the gear on there won't come off. Also wondering if the third gear is worn? I can't really tell. It looks a little worn but, having never driven it, I can't tell if it has the symptom of popping out of gear. My first instinct is the heat the input gear and see if it loosen up and come off. Also wondering which trans I have. So that I might start buying parts. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #2 Posted February 2 It has a straight side of differential. Not sure what else to look for it to identify it 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,360 #3 Posted February 2 Jimmy - I have seen worse! Your 3rd gear actualy looks pretty good! Most are not. Others, like @stevasaurus have much more Unidrive experience than I - he or others should chime in. Short version - most all of these ARE fixable - just a matter of time & money..... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,267 #4 Posted February 2 3 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Jimmy - I have seen worse! Your 3rd gear actualy looks pretty good! Most are not. Others, like @stevasaurus have much more Unidrive experience than I - he or others should chime in. Short version - most all of these ARE fixable - just a matter of time & money..... @Jimmy66 You'll be fine 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,877 #5 Posted February 3 I would suggest doing a complete tear down and cleaning before you buy any parts. The third gear (part # 3523) looks OK in the picture. @stevasaurus has a great thread about transaxle rebuilds. When the time cones for parts Lowell at Wheel Horse Parts and More has what you need, good parts, good folks. 1 hour ago, Jimmy66 said: My biggest concern is the input shaft. It seems frozen and the gear on there won't come off. The gear and shaft are one piece, see the drawing below. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/manual-transmissions/ 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,980 #6 Posted February 3 The gear is part of the input shaft. Get a bearing and gasket set from Wheelhorsepartsandmore. If you need gears, A-Z tractor is a good source. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,871 #7 Posted February 3 It’s good to hear from you. You may have a 6 speed with a limited slip differential. Post a picture of the differential and also the tractors model number. I suspect some of those gears have some pitting. You would want to replace them on a worker, but depending on the level of pitting they may work but be a for a neighborhood cruiser. But be a little noisy. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,673 #8 Posted February 3 Savable, yes, but time consuming. Have to go through it and clean/inspect every nook. I used diesel fuel as solvent, it worked OK and used a wire wheel on a drill inside the case.. That little blue handled stainless brush was super helpful. (it is kind of like therapy for the mind tho.) I was lucky enough to have a donor unit. Needed a few parts. Some incentive. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,235 #9 Posted February 3 (edited) Answer these and I should be able to tell you which trans you have there. How many bolts holding the differential together? 4 or 5 Did you have a Hi/Low range shifter with that trans? Yes or No Was the brake drum mounted on the Cluster Gear or the Mushroom gear shaft? Does your trans have a dip stick for checking oil? What is the diameter of your axles? 1" or 1 1/8" It is probably saveable. I suggest taking it to a do it yourself car wash and hose it down (to wash out any oil and gunk). Set up an electrolysis set up to remove all rust. The process will not hurt any good metal. After doing that (maybe a few days), you will be able to take all of the trans parts apart and inspect. Wire wheel and oil all parts. Post pictures!! This is one of the best articles for Electrolysis. Use Washing Soda...ACE Hardware has it. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/every-thing-you-always-wanted-to-know-about-electrolytic-rust-removal.154196/ Edited February 3 by stevasaurus 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Paulsen 282 #10 Posted February 4 Just a note, 2nd photo on that first post looks like you have a bunch of the needles/rollers missing out of the race. Be sure to find them all. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #11 Posted February 4 22 hours ago, stevasaurus said: Answer these and I should be able to tell you which trans you have there. How many bolts holding the differential together? 4 or 5 Did you have a Hi/Low range shifter with that trans? Yes or No Was the brake drum mounted on the Cluster Gear or the Mushroom gear shaft? Does your trans have a dip stick for checking oil? What is the diameter of your axles? 1" or 1 1/8" It is probably saveable. I suggest taking it to a do it yourself car wash and hose it down (to wash out any oil and gunk). Set up an electrolysis set up to remove all rust. The process will not hurt any good metal. After doing that (maybe a few days), you will be able to take all of the trans parts apart and inspect. Wire wheel and oil all parts. Post pictures!! This is one of the best articles for Electrolysis. Use Washing Soda...ACE Hardware has it. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/every-thing-you-always-wanted-to-know-about-electrolytic-rust-removal.154196/ 4 diffbolts no lo/hi selector no dip stick brake on mushroom gear 1” axle looking to identify to buy the kit and parts to rebuild it. Will also need to replace the differential bolt(s) one of them is corroded 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #12 Posted February 4 I think I read some of these would be helpful in identifying also 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,235 #13 Posted February 4 (edited) Sir, you have a #5025...especially with those shift rails. That is excellent! They are a dime a dozen and I have 2 spares in my garage, Clean it up like I said, let's see what you need from there. Are you close to Jim (oliver2-44)? Keep using this post to keep us informed, Do not order any parts until you get it all cleaned and show us what you have. We can save you a lot of time and money !! After we determine what parts, bearings and seals you need, you can get them with in a couple of weeks. Here is a PDF that shows what bearings and seals are in that #5025 trans. use PDF # 2''' The differential bolts are WH#1329 Cap Screw Hex 5/16" - 18- 3 1/4" The length is what is important. The nuts for the differential bolts are WH #1316 hex nut - lock nut 5/16" - 18. You want to use new lock nuts when installing. When you rebuild the trans...you want the shallow side of the cases down...and the nuts for the differential will be visible on the top. Important. Edited February 5 by stevasaurus 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #14 Posted February 12 Well here are a few pictures of some chewed up gears, well, pitted like Jim said. As well as a couple of injured 1533 ball beatings 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #16 Posted February 12 As far as needle bearings go, one side of the outer needle bearings were missing and or worn away, and the input shaft needle bearings were frozen. I was expecting to replace all needle bearings and seals, but not happy to find so much gear damage and the two ball bearings pitted. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,267 #17 Posted February 12 What's this tractor going to be used for? Light work? Heavy pulling? Show cruiser? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #18 Posted February 12 Not much work, hauling mulch at most. Plus, riding around the block! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,871 #19 Posted February 12 @Jimmy66 If you planning to replace all the bearings and seals I can blast the case halves and glass bead blast the gears. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,267 #20 Posted February 12 10 hours ago, Jimmy66 said: Not much work, hauling mulch at most. Plus, riding around the block! Around our acreage we use several tractors. Trina's 3 are all mid 60s short frame, 8 HP, 3 or 6 speeds. She herself is smaller weight too. Trina uses gers to move lighter loads and uses her tractors for lighter snow plowing. My main worker is a 1974 C160-8 that's built heavy one end to the other. I haul 2 to 3 times the weight she does. Plow much wider paths. The big chipper is on that one. I've put gears worse lookin than that back in Trina's 6 speeds and run em. If that was here she would get new small bearings, new or good used 1533, and use it without concern. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,871 #21 Posted February 12 One other place to check for wear and pitting is the bearing area of your axles. Do you have a caliper or micrometer to measure them. You can measure the bearing area of the shaft and the non bearing area and compare them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #22 Posted February 12 10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: @Jimmy66 If you planning to replace all the bearings and seals I can blast the case halves and glass bead blast the gears. Thank you so much! That would be incredible! I think a full rebuild would be in order, since good used parts are practically non-existent down here. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #23 Posted February 12 I'll have to buy a micrometer and check the axles before moving forward with anything. I'd really like a high/low gearbox like it's supposed to have. Otherwise going to move ahead with these banged up gears and replace everything else like Eb suggested 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,267 #24 Posted February 12 1 hour ago, Jimmy66 said: Thank you so much! That would be incredible! I think a full rebuild would be in order, since good used parts are practically non-existent down here. Don't let existence - or not - of parts be a hindrance. Up here in Maine we have no real resources for good used parts either. As Redsquare members we have a list of vendors. None of them are within a whole day's drive of me but all of them ship. No worries on parts availability. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,980 #25 Posted February 12 Gears Gears Gears. Message Jake https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/profile/4240-jake-kuhn/ 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
