Navig8r 132 #1 Posted January 8 Hey all... I have a single stage short chute, 06-42ST04. Need to replace the chain I guess... Tensioner is at limit and still lots of slop in the chain... Does anyone have good info about chain size and length? Don't see the point in spending big bucks for a "replacement chain" based on a part # if I can just make up what I need. Also thinking might be a good idea to replace the idlers... Toro p/n is 2174.. Found info with a p/n that supersedes this and an old post mentioning a Stens replacement. Stens # is no good anymore it seems.... Anyone found a good replacement for these? I'm also very interested in any tips on the replacing of the chain or idlers. Thanks!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,951 #2 Posted January 8 (edited) The chain size is #40 and can be bought at Tractor supply. Comes in 10 ft length so you will need to shorten it They also sell the idler #40 sprockets. Pay attention to the chain route before removing. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/roller-chain-size-40 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/weasler-roller-chain-idler-sprocket-40-chain-17-teeth-bore-1-2 Cheapest way There's a master link on the existing chain. Remove it and the idlers to inspect them. If good maybe they can be geased and you could also remove a link or 2 from the old chain and put it back on Edited January 8 by wallfish 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Navig8r 132 #3 Posted January 8 12 minutes ago, wallfish said: The chain size is #40 and can be bought at Tractor supply. Comes in 10 ft length so you will need to shorten it They also sell the idler #40 sprockets. Pay attention to the chain route before removing. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/roller-chain-size-40 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/weasler-roller-chain-idler-sprocket-40-chain-17-teeth-bore-1-2 Cheapest way There's a master link on the existing chain. Remove it and the idlers to inspect them. If good maybe they can be geased and you could also remove a link or 2 from the old chain and put it back on Thank you sir!! Spent a bunch of time searching through posts because I knew this info was out there... I just never needed it before today, LOL. As it was, had to run it the way it is today and it tore through the 14" that fell last night, so.. all good for now. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,951 #4 Posted January 8 5 minutes ago, Navig8r said: Thank you sir!! Spent a bunch of time searching through posts because I knew this info was out there... I just never needed it before today, LOL. As it was, had to run it the way it is today and it tore through the 14" that fell last night, so.. all good for now. Maybe just remove a chain link for now and fix'er up good and right in the Spring, Summer or Fall? You can grind off the rivet head (just one if you're removing one link from the end) and use a hammer and punch to tap it out of the hole. Sometimes it will just come apart on used chain. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,364 #5 Posted January 8 6 hours ago, wallfish said: Cheapest way There's a master link on the existing chain. Remove it and the idlers to inspect them. If good maybe they can be geased and you could also remove a link or 2 from the old chain and put it back on Good call there, John. Remember though, a "Link' of #40 0r 41 roller chain has a half inch pitch and consists of an inner and an outer portion - need to remove both in order to reuse the Master link. That makes the chain one inch shorter, and may be too much. And that is where the offset Connector Link comes in... allows you to shorten the chain by 1/2" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,098 #6 Posted January 8 @Navig8r recommend a specific , CHAIN , LUBRICANT , for that , gets into the fine points , also about a 1/ 2 " play on that chain set up , another free up area is the drive belt idler frame behind the blower , steel / steel , grease those contact areas , have also added a stiffer spring , ensuring , belt engagement , re greased all related pulleys , reducing , collective drag is what you want , that blower should / can move by hand at PTO drive belt point , would go over every movement point , for ease of motion , improve / enhance / insure , its smooth easy . spray chute base , linkage for easy swing . just some ideas , Pete ' 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,989 #7 Posted January 8 If you chain is wore out that you need to remove a link, your sprockets are wore out too. I had to replace the chain and sprockets on mine. I got the chain and sprockets from tractor supply. BUT the sprockets are 1 tooth different in the amount of teeth. I had to add a half link to make it all work. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,282 #8 Posted January 8 Good timing on the information here Gents. 2 hours ago, squonk said: sprockets are 1 tooth different Is it worth going up or down enough to drive the blower a little faster? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,951 #9 Posted January 8 18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Good timing on the information here Gents. Is it worth going up or down enough to drive the blower a little faster? He's talking about the idler sprockets. The sprocket on the auger is fixed to it. Speed can be accomplished with changing the drive pulley on it to a smaller one If his adjustment idler is ALL THE WAY then moving it all the way in the other direction and using the same idlers will probably allow for a link to be removed. A chain link always refers to the double sections of chain and that's why they refer to the single as a half link. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,989 #10 Posted January 8 Single stage augers turn pretty fast as it is. I wouldn't want to speed ir up anymore. Mine throws snow fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
