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heysavoy

How to stop squeaking?

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heysavoy

Happy New Year. I have a 1990 wheel horse classic model # 31-12KE01. The part I have shown has started squeaking recently when I engage my leaf attachment. Is there a grease fitting for this? This forum has been so very helpful and as a novice wheelhouse owner I appreciate so much the assistance you have given me so many times. Thanks

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ri702bill

If you are talking about the needle bearing inside the PTO bell - there is no fitting. You need to disassemble it to get to the inside for cleaning & greasing.

@peter lena  - this is one of his favorites for proper maintainence. He will probably chime in... It is super important to keep the PTO operating properly to prevent costly damage.

 

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Sparky

It’s also possible that your PTO is slipping and needs adjusting…or (worse case) the PTO clutch material is worn completely away and you are now metal to metal 

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squonk

Outer bearing fails a lot Napa # PP204RR6

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peter lena

@heysavoy  there is a needle bearing INSIDE THE DRIVE CONE  , THE OUTER Bearing on  THE CONE END IS SEALED , , but can also be replaced . that needle bearing needs to be wiped out  and very lightly re greased , with a hi temp grease , like a 550 temp chassis grease , over greasing causes grease sling to clutch face, avoid that . BTW  that cone comes right off , with end safety clip , swing arm out of way, also remove the upper left corner brake pad bracket . after you do that , repack / service , or before , how easily , or not does the drive belt , upper side move the deck ?  the collection of resistance , from spindles , is the killer , lets just get this taken care of , thank you to @ri702bill  and @Sparky  for their input . Pete

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heysavoy
3 hours ago, peter lena said:

@heysavoy  there is a needle bearing INSIDE THE DRIVE CONE  , THE OUTER Bearing on  THE CONE END IS SEALED , , but can also be replaced . that needle bearing needs to be wiped out  and very lightly re greased , with a hi temp grease , like a 550 temp chassis grease , over greasing causes grease sling to clutch face, avoid that . BTW  that cone comes right off , with end safety clip , swing arm out of way, also remove the upper left corner brake pad bracket . after you do that , repack / service , or before , how easily , or not does the drive belt , upper side move the deck ?  the collection of resistance , from spindles , is the killer , lets just get this taken care of , thank you to @ri702bill  and @Sparky  for their input . Pete

 

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heysavoy

It moves fairly easy when I pull the belt by hand. A little resistance but not a lot. When I swing the arm out of the way does the entire cone come off and then is that where I lightly grease?

 

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ri702bill
4 hours ago, Sparky said:

It’s also possible that your PTO is slipping and needs adjusting…or (worse case) the PTO clutch material is worn completely away and you are now metal to metal 

Good advise there. Check the friction disc when you have it apart. IF it is the riveted kind, and IF the rivets are touching the cone, it it time to reline or replace it....

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peter lena

@heysavoy  , little resistance is much better than a lot , yes the arm swing bracket holds it in place , looking at the needle bearing , wipe it out , clean cloth , maybe a  carb cleaner spray on cloth to help remove oil grease . then a light repack on that needle bearing. remember excess can sling up to clutch face , avoid that , clean back of disc , you want a hi temp grease , like lucas , chassis grease , that will stand up to hi temp stress loading .  check this out for , direction  , pete

 

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Jon Paulsen
32 minutes ago, peter lena said:

check this out for , direction  , pete

That was one ugly bearing, Pete :lol:

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heysavoy
5 hours ago, Sparky said:

It’s also possible that your PTO is slipping and needs adjusting…or (worse case) the PTO clutch material is worn completely away and you are now metal to metal 

When I turn it by hand it only speaks in certain areas but not throughout the entire turn. Thanks

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squonk

Your welcome. Glad I could make a "small contribution" to the solution. :)

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peter lena

@Jon Paulsen  another  thing you want to look at while its running is the belt tensioner movement  cycling  , is it  a buzz  of  motion? quiet ?  squealing ? when its  really bouncing , chances are its a  spindle bearing related drag point , just a fractional , hang up , that collectively  eats bearings / related movement areas . have someone else in the seat , so you can look it over / with caution  , while its  running . just the way I look at things . only a suggestion ,  also lets you see , rusty movement areas , that can be improved , added washers, lubrication , to firm up function , go greasy , pete 

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ri702bill

Decent instructional video there @peter lena. Only thing he should have done is PRESS the outer beading OD into the pulley casting instead of taking the chance to damage it by thumping it into place. He DOES have a press - saw him use it earlier. Too much chance to start it in mis-aligned by hand...

"Do it right once, or be ready to do it over later".......

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heysavoy
21 hours ago, ri702bill said:

If you are talking about the needle bearing inside the PTO bell - there is no fitting. You need to disassemble it to get to the inside for cleaning & greasing.

@peter lena  - this is one of his favorites for proper maintainence. He will probably chime in... It is super important to keep the PTO operating properly to prevent costly damage.

 

So when I take off the PTO bell will I be able to get inside to add some grease without disassembling the entire "bell"? Peter Lena shared a "how to" video above but I'm not sure I have the tools or the expertise to do all what it entails. Thanks man!!

 

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Handy Don
6 minutes ago, heysavoy said:

So when I take off the PTO bell will I be able to get inside to add some grease without disassembling the entire "bell"? Peter Lena shared a "how to" video above but I'm not sure I have the tools or the expertise to do all what it entails. Thanks man!!

 

Yes, gently clean and then rub a small amount of grease into the needle bearings that removing the bell exposes.

More is NOT better in this situation because excess grease can find its way onto the PTO clutch friction plate--not a good outcome!

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Jon Paulsen

:text-yeahthat:

then, if you have a socket set (socket wrenches), locate one that is smaller then the hole the bearing rides in, but large enough to cover most of the bearing's outer race. In other words, a socket that is barely small enough to fit the hole for the ball bearing. Use that socket and a small hammer to tap the old bearing out, then the new bearing in. The idea is to exert force on the outer race of the bearing. Tapping a ball bearing in and out by the inner race would be very hard on it. 

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ri702bill
52 minutes ago, Jon Paulsen said:

:text-yeahthat:

then, if you have a socket set (socket wrenches), locate one that is smaller then the hole the bearing rides in, but large enough to cover most of the bearing's outer race. In other words, a socket that is barely small enough to fit the hole for the ball bearing. Use that socket and a small hammer to tap the old bearing out, then the new bearing in. The idea is to exert force on the outer race of the bearing. Tapping a ball bearing in and out by the inner race would be very hard on it. 

Trying to drive the OD of a ball bearing by exerting force on the inner race, either in a press of by using impact from a hammer will most likely damage / destroy the bearing....

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Jon Paulsen
1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

Trying to drive the OD of a ball bearing by exerting force on the inner race, either in a press of by using impact from a hammer will most likely damage / destroy the bearing....

Yes sir, must apply force, beatings, etc. to the outer race only. Beating the inner race will gut it. 

 

Edit: Around time 3:30 on the video Peter posted, it shows using a socket and brass hammer to tap the bearing into place. This puts the force on the outer race. Personally, I would skip the Loctite (glue) for the sake of future disassembly.  

Edited by Jon Paulsen
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