kpinnc 18,219 #151 Posted May 11 (edited) 20 minutes ago, WHX?? said: have no idea why went this route. It's been said this same solenoid was used on some truck sno plow set ups. Pretty sure my solenoid is operated by +12VDC. No biggie. Just looked wrong. I learned something new! So can I run the wire from the middle tab (GEN) directly back to the positive side of the battery? The pic below is a Kohler manual. Just has a meter in series between the center tab and positive terminal. Edited May 11 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,593 #152 Posted May 11 4 minutes ago, kpinnc said: So can I run the wire from the middle tab (GEN) directly back to the positive side of the battery? Yep if your not going to have a ammeter. Double check what solenoid you have. Hate to see you let any magic smoke out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 18,219 #153 Posted May 11 55 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Double check what solenoid you have. Hate to see you let any magic smoke out. Yep me too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,828 #154 Posted May 11 5 hours ago, 702854boy said: Mine already looks like that because every wire except the 6 gauge positive battery cables are black I am NOT a fan of that. Wheelhorse originally used all one color to save money on the build. I understand that. And I thoroughly disagree with the idea. Just adding one color would have added minimal cost and made future diagnostics and repairs much easier. In the world of 12 volt negative ground, red is hot, black is ground. ...to start with. Then other hot colors for other circuits can be added. I use a section of 7 conductor trailer wire to begin making my harnesses. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,828 #155 Posted May 11 5 hours ago, kpinnc said: The pic below is a Kohler manual That's interesting. I never knew that having a solenoid was an OE idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,828 #156 Posted May 11 4 hours ago, WHX?? said: Yep if your not going to have a ammeter. Double check what solenoid you have. Hate to see you let any magic smoke out. I've read & been told that most older jeep and ford 3 terminal solenoids work. I'm not prone to using light weight modern stuff so I use a very heavy duty Cole Hersee industrial type solenoid. A little more money .... but worth it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,557 #157 Posted May 11 6 hours ago, WHX?? said: I have no idea why went this route. It's been said this same solenoid was used on some truck sno plow set ups. That style solenoid was mainly used to keep amp draw on the activating control to a minimum for continuous duty applications like snow plows and electric actuators. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,828 #158 Posted May 11 9 minutes ago, squonk said: That style solenoid was mainly used to keep amp draw on the activating control to a minimum for continuous duty applications like snow plows and electric actuators. When did they start going this route? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,557 #159 Posted May 11 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: When did they start going this route? Way back when. Saw them on my 60's Jeeps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,593 #160 Posted May 11 (edited) 3 hours ago, squonk said: amp draw on the activating control to a minimum I see ... I think ... so the amp draw is only on the internal connection between the large post and the small one on the solenoid. Not thru the start button. Be care when working with the dash plate KP. use mounting screws with small heads. They can break the plate at the corners on the bottom if too big. I used the original ammeter just for old skool look. Tom @Shynon was playing with making aluminum plates on his milling machine. Don't know if he perfected that yet or not. Edited May 11 by WHX?? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,557 #161 Posted May 11 9 minutes ago, WHX?? said: I see ... I think ... so the amp draw is only on the internal connection between the large post and the small one on the solenoid. Not thru the start button. Yup. The switch is just carrying the amperage for the solenoid coil which is probably around half an amp 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 18,219 #162 Posted May 11 2 hours ago, WHX?? said: Be care when working with the dash plate KP. use mounting screws with small heads. They can break the plate at the corners on the bottom if too big. Cracked mine months ago. Already glued. We will see what happens. Thinking of using allen head cap screws if I can find them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,595 #163 Posted May 11 (edited) 3 hours ago, WHX?? said: Possible blasphemy here, but coating the plastic dash with a suitable paint would go a long way toward reducing deterioration from UV. Edited May 11 by Handy Don 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,575 #164 Posted May 11 5 hours ago, WHX?? said: I see ... I think ... so the amp draw is only on the internal connection between the large post and the small one on the solenoid. Not thru the start button. Be care when working with the dash plate KP. use mounting screws with small heads. They can break the plate at the corners on the bottom if too big. I used the original ammeter just for old skool look. Tom @Shynon was playing with making aluminum plates on his milling machine. Don't know if he perfected that yet or not. 3d printed and aluminum. 2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,828 #165 Posted May 11 7 hours ago, kpinnc said: Cracked mine months ago. Already glued. We will see what happens. Thinking of using allen head cap screws if I can find them. Contact Bolt Depot in Hingham MA 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 18,219 #166 Posted 18 hours ago I hate sheetmetal work. Some idiot apparently used my 701 belt guard on a low mount starter engine. They cut a path for the belt to pass and screwed a screen on the front with self tapping screws. Welding sheetmetal is a pain, but I was able to make it look decent. Not perfect but at least it was on the bottom. My hood was torn all up where it meets the frame up front. So I cut the bad spot out, added a new bottom plate, then made a 1/8 tab that wraps into the sides for extra support. Needs a little filler in the weld gaps but it won't be visible when finished. At least these parts will fit right now. A little more work and they will look good enough. 2 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,593 #167 Posted 18 hours ago Better than what I coulda done. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 18,219 #168 Posted 17 hours ago 59 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Better than what I coulda done. Trust me everything looks better on the internet... 1 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,828 #169 Posted 9 hours ago 9 hours ago, WHX?? said: Better than what I coulda done. 8 hours ago, kpinnc said: Trust me everything looks better on the internet... Mebbe so but it looks great from Maine. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 2,568 #170 Posted 5 hours ago If it’s going to be a worker and not a showpiece I’d run it as is. Then, if it gets bumped or banged it won’t spike your blood pressure. 🙂 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites