Brockport Bill 2,060 #301 Posted June 29 careful !!!!! we don't want to see any wind blowing that red overspray onto that beautiful new barn. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #302 Posted June 29 2 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said: careful !!!!! we don't want to see any wind blowing that red overspray onto that beautiful new barn. No worries Bill. The barn is due for a repaint anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 2,060 #303 Posted June 29 you're fortunate to have hired highly skilled professional staff in the paint department -- give her a $ raise!!!!!!!!! 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,644 #304 Posted June 30 23 hours ago, Brockport Bill said: you're fortunate to have hired highly skilled professional staff in the paint department -- give her a $ raise!!!!!!!!! Sadly, even a 100% raise would amount to nothing! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
homefried1@yahoo.com 2 #305 Posted September 12 On 8/16/2024 at 2:41 PM, ebinmaine said: @cleat I got the pipe from Lincoln at A to Z Tractor based on what part numbers I could find various places online. Here's a screenshot of your GT1600 Hydro project showing the pipe we need. The one we got is pre-bent to a form where the yellow line is so it interferes with the brake mechanism. Do you have a correct part number or any other suggestions? That pipe on a gt 1800, the number is 109377. My question is, what all do you have to remove to expose the pipe like in the picture and wonder if I can strip my gt1800 down like that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,155 #306 Posted September 12 (edited) 30 minutes ago, homefried1@yahoo.com said: That pipe on a gt 1800, the number is 109377. My question is, what all do you have to remove to expose the pipe like in the picture and wonder if I can strip my gt1800 down like that? Remove the seat, rear fender, gas tank and support and you will be good to go. Be sure to clean the area around the two bolts holding the tank mount, they go directly into the top of the transaxle and you don't want any dirt getting in there. I responded to your other post on a source of fittings and hoses. The 90* fitting on the front of the Eaton 1100 is an "O" Ring fitting so it can be turned as needed for clearance. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18526732283&gbraid=0AAAAAo6yYyqtA3rKB1-xlS_ayELjfi1t0&gclid=CjwKCAjwiY_GBhBEEiwAFaghvocA81ohnTIMe1Fl3HB4-JoYyZ4JeF3XemwhGG3_EdfZ0mEGYstDORoCtJ0QAvD_BwE Edited September 12 by 953 nut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #307 Posted September 12 3 hours ago, 953 nut said: The 90* fitting on the FRONT of the Eaton 1100 is an "O" Ring fitting so it can be turned as needed for clearance Note the call out. The FRONT fitting can be spun. The rear of the hose and the bend in the middle as shown by the yellow drawn line above can be different. I ordered a pipe based on (then current) available information which turned out wrong. Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA was able to get the correct parts sent up. @homefried1@yahoo.com I still have that pipe. Might be the right one for YOUR application. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,155 #308 Posted September 12 6 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Note the call out. The FRONT fitting can be spun. I was referring to the replacement of the steel tube with a hose where the tight clearance would be a problem. Hope the steel tube you have can help @homefried1@yahoo.com out with his leak. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #309 Posted September 12 Just now, 953 nut said: I was referring to the replacement of the steel tube with a hose where the tight clearance would be a problem. Hope the steel tube you have can help @homefried1@yahoo.com out with his leak. Gotcha... I remember that though now. We didn't go with a flexible hose because we couldn't get the end started without separating transmission from frame.... Lesson here. ALWAYS replace and rebuild the WHOLE hydraulic system. @cleat had the right idea on installing the new valve and lines while the steering tower is mostly disassembled. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #310 Posted October 12 As per the original verbal agreement with our friends this GT1800 is now ours. They're moving soon and won't need it so we bought it back. My intention is to remove the maroon color and repaint it a tone of Gray. Since I can't duplicate the original color in a spray can, Trina suggested some sort of Military Gray. @Sparky wheel colors perhaps..... 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,644 #311 Posted October 12 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Trina suggested some sort of Military Gray So cool that in near-WH livery, the Work Horses are all but indistinguishable from a WH. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #312 Posted October 12 2 hours ago, Handy Don said: So cool that in near-WH livery, the Work Horses are all but indistinguishable from a WH. If this was the same color as a 300/400 I believe it would be indistinguishable other than the engine. I've read that some folks believe the sheet metal is a thinner guage. That would be the only tell. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,692 #313 Posted October 13 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I've read that some folks believe the sheet metal is a thinner guage. Can't verify that one but the pedals are thinner than the same design on a Wheel Horse. At least the one I had was. It had the single cylinder Briggs on it. The rear fender is different as well. It doesn't have the little reinforcing bend at the back under the headlights. Still beefier than everything else sold in big box stores at the same time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #314 Posted October 13 2 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Can't verify that one but the pedals are thinner than the same design on a Wheel Horse. At least the one I had was. It had the single cylinder Briggs on it. I wonder if the pedal is like the older C series type. 2 minutes ago, kpinnc said: The rear fender is different as well. It doesn't have the little reinforcing bend at the back under the headlights. Still beefier than everything else sold in big box stores at the same time. We just got the 520H parts tractor nearly disassembled. I'll take a look at the two and compare. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,659 #315 Posted October 13 52 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I wonder if the pedal is like the older C series type. We just got the 520H parts tractor nearly disassembled. I'll take a look at the two and compare. The rear fender is indeed a bit different. Also the hood is missing the brace at the front so it feels a little flimsier. I had the brace welded into my work horse hood same as the later models and it feels solid now. Pedals are different as well. Still seem solid, just a different design. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #316 Posted October 13 7 hours ago, cleat said: Pedals are different as well. Still seem solid, just a different design Looking at pics from the original build I'd say they're definitely the 60s & 70s design. To be honest, I prefer them. Fits my boot better and they're further away for a longer reach and more leg room. 7 hours ago, cleat said: The rear fender is indeed a bit different. Also the hood is missing the brace at the front so it feels a little flimsier. I had the brace welded into my work horse hood same as the later models and it feels solid now. Mulling over replacing the fender... The hood I'll take a second look at. Maybe replace or add to it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,659 #317 Posted October 13 Here is a pic of the hood without brace. Unfortunately I did not get a good pic. Here is the brace welded in. Any later model hood will have it already installed. This is the rear fender original VS later model (I used one from a 416H on my GT1600). The rear decal is also slightly thinner on the later models but terry made mine to fit. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 10,562 #318 Posted October 13 Couple of things I note here, I don’t believe any of those style hoods in the first years had that brace? I could be wrong? I think it was added after they realized it was necessary to stiffen it up. I also don’t believe the sheet metal was thinner for the Work Horse model. As far as the brake pedal being different? I’m going to have to compare with my other tractors from those years. And lastly as far as the rear fender having that extra crease or lip to strengthen it up, I can’t believe it but I never really noticed that!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #319 Posted October 13 1 hour ago, cleat said: rear decal is also slightly thinner I gotta take a look at that carefully because I may not use this style of fender at all. Good reminder. Thank you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #320 Posted October 13 38 minutes ago, c-series don said: Couple of things I note here, I don’t believe any of those style hoods in the first years had that brace? I could be wrong? I think it was added after they realized it was necessary to stiffen it up. I also don’t believe the sheet metal was thinner for the Work Horse model. As far as the brake pedal being different? I’m going to have to compare with my other tractors from those years. And lastly as far as the rear fender having that extra crease or lip to strengthen it up, I can’t believe it but I never really noticed that!! Keep me posted as to what you find in your own herd 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 7,659 #321 Posted October 13 (edited) 3 hours ago, c-series don said: Couple of things I note here, I don’t believe any of those style hoods in the first years had that brace? I could be wrong? I think it was added after they realized it was necessary to stiffen it up. I also don’t believe the sheet metal was thinner for the Work Horse model. As far as the brake pedal being different? I’m going to have to compare with my other tractors from those years. And lastly as far as the rear fender having that extra crease or lip to strengthen it up, I can’t believe it but I never really noticed that!! I think the foot rests might actually be thicker metal on the work horse. The hood is equally strong once the brace is added. I replaced the rear fender with the later model one mainly to gain the large opening for the hydro cam access because I converted my machine from 8 speed to hydro. I don't think the original one is thinner metal, just a slightly different shape with different holes punched into it. Edited October 13 by cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #322 Posted October 14 On 10/17/2023 at 10:58 AM, Horse Newbie said: Here’s some inspiration… @Horse Newbie Is there a spray can paint (preferably Rust-Oleum 2X) that's close to the gray? Is ALL the black the same satin type? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 10,562 #323 Posted October 14 Here’s more inspiration 😂 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,545 #324 Posted October 15 Got these decals coming from Terry. Here's a similar model in the basic color scheme I'm thinking. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 10,562 #325 Posted October 15 @ebinmaine check this color out 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites