Mackissic chipper shredder restoration

[ebinmaine 63,562]

This evening's fun was removing the flywheel side bearing. 

 

 

So far all the bolts for the case have backed right out. 

 

The outer  bearing has two set screws that sit a little to each side of the keyway. The key is in further on the flywheel.  

 

Those set screws were BOTH loose. 

That made removing the bearing... a bear 🐻... because the cross shaft is scored. 

We sanded the outer portion of the cross shaft to remove as much rust and pitting as possible. 

 

I've plopped that bearing in the ultrasonic cleaner to see if I can free up some of the gunkiness.  

It moves well and straight but I feel like it's a hair too stiff.  

 

I started the penetrating oil cycle on the anvil. 

 

 

I was able to remove 2 of the 3 screws from the knife!!

I'll heat the other one next time out there. 

 

 

The shaft is somewhat scored from the set screws being able to rotate with the bearing. 

 

It's still very much usable.

 

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,551]

The screws should be installed with a thread locker so require heat to remove them.

[ebinmaine 63,562]

22 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

The screws should be installed with a thread locker so require heat to remove them.

 

I remember you mentioning that in the other thread.  

The first two definitely did not need a lot of convincing.  

 

[OoPEZoO 399]

Nice progress……I know those knife Allen bolts gave me the willies even thinking about trying to remove them. Glad to see you are 2/3 of the way there. It crossed my mind to replace them with torx bolts if/when I finally get around to swapping mine

[Handy Don 10,759]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I was able to remove 2 of the 3 screws from the knife!!

I'll heat the other one next time out there. 

Same knife setup as the Troybilt Tomahawks. I use just a tiny dab of blue loctite when replacing them the screws. New blades always come with new bolts.

[8ntruck 6,488]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Would it be helpful to increase the spring pressure on the tensioner pulley as well?

 

 

 

Maybe.  But, adding the idler pulley on the top will increase the wrap distance on the flywheel pulley.  That should help to prevent belt slipping.

 

While I am reading this thread, I am thinking about the large pile of brush I created on our property in Kentucky when I cleared a 40' by 60' area 2 years ago.  The location in the woods is not conducive to burning.  Grinding it up somehow is probably the easiest thing to do.  That job is beyond my 5hp chipper/shredder, though.  Rental of a commercial machine makes sense to catch up on the 'backlog' of brush.

[8ntruck 6,488]

Duplicate post.

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by 8ntruck

[ebinmaine 63,562]

3 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Rental of a commercial machine

I've looked into that in the past up here. 

 

We have several places to rent machinery from small Mom n Pop to the Big boxes. 

A common theme among most is that I'd have to have or rent a ¾ ton or larger tow vehicle. 

When I questioned that I found that they really only rent out enormous chippers. 

We're talking about the smallest ones having the ability to shred an 8" tree, whole.  

That's great but waaaaay oversized. 

I needed a machine that could be moved here on the rough surface property.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 63,562]

6 hours ago, OoPEZoO said:

Nice progress……I know those knife Allen bolts gave me the willies even thinking about trying to remove them. Glad to see you are 2/3 of the way there. It crossed my mind to replace them with torx bolts if/when I finally get around to swapping mine

 

Just make SURE to get the right hardness screws. 

I may have to search some out for the anvil. We'll see in a few days. 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,551]

I use a manual impact driver to loosen and tighten the screws.

[ebinmaine 63,562]

6 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

I use a manual impact driver to loosen and tighten the screws.

Thanks for the reminder Garry.  

I'll set it aside tonight.   

[ebinmaine 63,562]

On 10/3/2023 at 7:13 AM, gwest_ca said:

I use a manual impact driver to loosen and tighten the screws.

Figured out tonight that I don't have the best way to adapt the Impact Driver square to the required 3/16 and 5/32 Allen bits.  

 

No worries.  

 

I used the suggestion of Impact with a different tool and one of my favorite tech tips. 

"You can almost never loosen it but you can almost always tighten it."

 

I tightened the blade screw just a tiny bit. 

Loosened it the same. 

Repeat. Repeat.  

Backed right out.  

 

Also got the anvil and  fasteners out. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 63,562]

This afternoon I took the time to finish disassembly.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 63,562]

Got the hammers all out, flipped, and back in place. 

I added a few stainless washers where it appeared there are proper spacers missing.  

The zipties are in the end holes until I get a hold of good quality cotter pins.  

 

 

 

 

 

I'm figuring this unit has been apart after it left the factory.  

Note that the cross shaft has some scoring.  

Perhaps the bearing on that side went bad and someone did some rebuilding.  

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 63,562]

The 2 bolt flanged bearing on the flywheel side is VERY stiff. There's no play in any direction but the inner piece requires a strong hand to turn while holding the outer flange with good grip. 

 

I left it in the ultrasonic cleaner for several cycles in an attempt to clean it up and maybe degrease the inside to regrease with new clean oil and get it moving easier. 

 

Clean. Successful. 

Moving easier. Not successful. 

 

I ordered the exact same Browning brand that's on there now. 

 

 

 

EDIT:

It appears that it was originally built with only 2 set screws in this position.  

I couldn't see that clearly.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other than new pulleys and the bearing I'll also order hardened split/cotter pins and all grade 8 hardware with nyloc nuts.  

 

We will also be doing an experiment of sorts testing Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer. 

Minimal sanding or wire brushing. 

Acetone bath. 

Spray primer.

Spray paint. 

See what happens.   

 

 

Edited October 10, 2023 by ebinmaine
Fixed misinformation

[19richie66 17,004]

Nice setup. I need one of those.

[ebinmaine 63,562]

This evening I started the clean up process.  

Wire brushed a couple small pieces and began on the flywheel side outer housing.  

 

I got a few packages in the post too. 

Some nice new grade 8 hardware from Bolt Depot in Mass. 

The new Browning brand side bearing. MUCH better than the old one. Glad I ordered that. 

Also got some idler pulleys to try after assembly to see about keeping the belt lined up better.  

 

I ordered a Browning brand belt pulley too.  

The old one was a 7" diameter that was installed by a PO. 

Wrong size. Should have been a 5.25 to 5.5" diameter per Mackissic company.  

 

The one I ordered is a gross OD of 5.75 with a datum diameter of 5.4. That'll do just fine. 

It was already a BEAST. 

I'm REALLY looking forward to trying this machine after proper knife to anvil  adjustment and a faster drive speed.  

 

 

[OoPEZoO 399]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm REALLY looking forward to trying this machine after proper knife to anvil  adjustment and a faster drive speed.  

 

 

That’s part of what I’m most curious about. I have no idea what my knife/anvil spacing is, but had read about it in the manual.  Plus, with mine originally set up with the tensioner pulley set up on the wrong belt span.  Mine already worked VERY well as is. I’m excited to see how it does once set up properly.  Mine is currently sitting in the corner as I’m sorting out this Johnny bucket I just picked up, but I’ll get back to it shortly 

Edited October 13, 2023 by OoPEZoO

[ebinmaine 63,562]

5 hours ago, OoPEZoO said:

That’s part of what I’m most curious about. I have no idea what my knife/anvil spacing is, but had read about it in the manual.  Plus, with mine originally set up with the tensioner pulley set up on the wrong belt span.  Mine already worked VERY well as is. I’m excited to see how it does once set up properly.  Mine is currently sitting in the corner as I’m sorting out this Johnny bucket I just picked up, but I’ll get back to it shortly 

 

This one will have a free moving bearing, properly adjusted anvil, newly turned hammers, the RPM will increase from approximately 2100 to 2650, and the belt should be more capable of grabbing the pulleys. 

Several smaller changes I'm hoping will add up to a pretty fair positive difference!

 

[sjoemie himself 2,930]

40 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Several smaller changes I'm hoping will add up to a pretty fair positive difference!

Almost as if greasy @peter lena was talking 

 

I'm following along Eric.. chipper/shredders always had my interest, just can't justify getting one (yet).

[wallfish 16,041]

On 10/9/2023 at 5:52 PM, ebinmaine said:

We will also be doing an experiment of sorts testing Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer. 

Minimal sanding or wire brushing. 

Acetone bath. 

Spray primer.

Spray paint. 

See what happens. 

Have you ever tried a rust converter product? Turns it to black oxide and there's quite a few different ones out there. Some brush, some spray like this one

[ebinmaine 63,562]

38 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Have you ever tried a rust converter product? Turns it to black oxide and there's quite a few different ones out there. Some brush, some spray like this one

 

 

I've looked at a few but we haven't tried one yet.

Might do that on the big utility trailer.

 

[peter lena 8,141]

@ebinmaine  looks like a prefect time for a new bearing , and a re grease , that lateral stress , is showing you its , strong , fault area . might even do a cross reference , for a similar / yet better bearing , my regular reference to a hi temp  lubrication , is regularly verified . its the  COLLECTIVE ROTATIONAL DRAG , that adds up , ever look at the mower deck , drive belt in  operation ?  very easy from the  seat , looking down left side , on to deck , notice extensive , belt buzzing ?  spring tensioner is going nuts ? what could possibly be causing that ? bet its a lumpy/ rough / noisy  bearing failure , Kroil oil / lubrication , will do the metal prep for you , look at the tracking / film . love it when a repetitive failure , shows' you the way . do not put it back the same way , make a change . just my own experience . greasy , pete 

[peter lena 8,141]

@ebinmaine  https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=573172220&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&sxsrf=AM9HkKmKviUtegy0KUSXjxuYkLmQL1rotA:1697199031870&q=FB2601+BEARING&tbm=isch&source=univ&fir=CLuz63AR2fATsM%2CfYlCfJAOazXFzM%2C_%3BUuZq2h16QThlfM%2CgmSEpNY8U76  , Lucas  green grease , Pete  

[peter lena 8,141]

@ebinmaine  https://www.zoro.com/terre-products-replacement-flat-idler-pulley-325-flat-dia-38-bore-steel-31tPpfMlWfcMLhQteHNcEFtUOsXHoFqAwXVMxt0R8aAgnLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds325125c/i/G002487271/?   good pulley for a deck addition  , back side of pulley belt , 3/8 bolt on  bearing point , also wide grease shields . that 3/8 bolt on makes it easy , pete