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New to Me 1977 Wheel Horse C-160

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Tuneup
10 hours ago, GAJoe said:

After removing the balance gears could you tell a difference in the vibration? If I take the oil pan off and they seem to not have any play or signs of wear in them would you remove them?

 

Hey there, fellow Georgian. I expect they're in they're for a reason so if the bearings are good and any slop can be shimmed away, I'd keep them. Mine were shot and on their way to disintegration. Removing them brought unwanted vibration on the C125. Adding the vibration plate back helped lots but still working on getting rid of an off idle harmonic that rattles the hood.

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kpinnc
10 minutes ago, Tuneup said:

Hey there, fellow Georgian. I expect they're in they're for a reason so if the bearings are good and any slop can be shimmed away, I'd keep them. Mine were shot and on their way to disintegration. Removing them brought unwanted vibration on the C125. Adding the vibration plate back helped lots but still working on getting rid of an off idle harmonic that rattles the hood.

 

Personal preference of course. :thumbs:

 

For me at least, I'd rather deal with low rpm vibes than have a window installed in the block. Very difficult to find a K341 block nowadays. 

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ebinmaine
25 minutes ago, Tuneup said:

 

Hey there, fellow Georgian. I expect they're in they're for a reason so if the bearings are good and any slop can be shimmed away, I'd keep them. Mine were shot and on their way to disintegration. Removing them brought unwanted vibration on the C125. Adding the vibration plate back helped lots but still working on getting rid of an off idle harmonic that rattles the hood.

 

For the sake of my own curiosity you've got me wondering why you would ever have that engine at a position of ... off idle?

 

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953 nut

:text-yeahthat:         These engines have splash lubrication and cooling furnished by the flywheel. They were built to be operated at or near wide open throttle. The only time they should be operated at low RPMs is just prior to shutting them down to avoid backfires.

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Horse Newbie
7 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

looks like a melted wire ??????

It is… when I was unloading it, some wire must have shorted to ground and I got some smoke.

Was afraid it was gonna burn down sitting in the back of the truck.

Drove 89 miles to get it home with clothesline rope holding it only to have it burn down…

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

It is… when I was unloading it, some wire must have shorted to ground and I got some smoke.

Was afraid it was gonna burn down sitting in the back of the truck.

 

No worries on that wire man.

Likely once you get to poking around in there it'll be pretty easy to find the issue.  

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Horse Newbie
4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

No worries on that wire man.

Likely once you get to poking around in there it'll be pretty easy to find the issue.  

Yeah… when I get to checking over all the wires, it most likely will wind up being a rewire…

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

 it most likely will wind up being a rewire…

You know, the more of these  we restore the more I think that's the ONLY way to go... 

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Dan.gerous
18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

You know, the more of these  we restore the more I think that's the ONLY way to go... 

We found that out the hard way this week, it was relatively quick and easy. Couldn't find the electrical fault on the C125, but replacing all the wires solved it instantly.

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Horse Newbie
58 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

You know, the more of these  we restore the more I think that's the ONLY way to go... 

Well I repainted and semi-restored my 1994 520H and 1984 Work Horse GT-1600, so considering how the 1977 C-160 doesn’t seem to be beat up real bad I thought about going patina… just doing a little mechanical stuff…

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Horse Newbie

Of course anything I touch mechanically will probably be painted knowing me…😆

will be hard to resist…

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Tuneup
10 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Personal preference of course. :thumbs:

 

For me at least, I'd rather deal with low rpm vibes than have a window installed in the block. Very difficult to find a K341 block nowadays. 

 

Don't misunderstand. I had to remove them on the K301 so as to avoid unwanted block ventilation. Took it apart just to inspect them. If they could have been shimmed for a fix, it would have happened but the bearings and their 'races' were worn. No shimming possible. I do miss them. As for the off idle vibration, my engine only starts at low idle and must be raised to mowing RPM. at about 1500, ouch! Doesn't bother my butt but it certainly rattles the heck out of the hood. Working on that - always had the off-idle vibration but much worse after the removal of the gears. Miss 'em but it was necessary.

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kpinnc
3 hours ago, Tuneup said:

at about 1500, ouch!

For what it's worth, I removed them from my FIL's Charger (K321 transplanted to it). My Bronco 14 still has balance gears for now at least, and the Bronco hood rattles more than the Charger. New bushings in the mount pivot, latch is tight. Makes no sense. :confusion-scratchheadblue:

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Horse Newbie

So I started poking around a little bit with the 1977 (I think) C-160…

I noticed ( after she was on the truck) that the front wheel bearings were beyond shot…

Take a look at the bottom of the front right spindle. I don’t know if I’ll JB Weld it or try to acquire more spindles. 
I have some cheap China bearings I will throw in there for now, just so I can roll her, but first order of business is check the health of the Kohler and get these fried wires fixed…

7C9B2830-FDF9-4CDB-B204-2FD957951BAB.jpeg

53194E07-F22C-425A-8FE6-81CBFD5A5B38.jpeg

21BD4615-5D15-457C-8A3A-33DD7F7114ED.jpeg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

Edited by Horse Newbie
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ebinmaine

Those spindles are readily available. I wouldn't bother trying to repair that.  

 

IIFF the bearing will sit tightly in the wheel then that can be reused.  

 

Those wires are a clear indication of a dead short somewhere.  

Them was 🔥 hot!! 

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Horse Newbie

Fellows,

Take a look at this video… what would you do ? I still have the knackered spindles to address…having trouble with the video loading. I may put it on YouTube under Tim’s DIY Club…

Edited by Horse Newbie

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kpinnc
2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Take a look at this video…

 

Lot of wear of course, but they're not a complete loss.

 

Get a set of the Stens bearings below and a new spindle. It'll last another 40 years. The bearings are wide enough to reach into undamaged steel. 

 

 

IMG_20220213_190224754.jpg

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ineedanother
4 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

So I started poking around a little bit with the 1977 (I think) C-160…

I noticed ( after she was on the truck) that the front wheel bearings were beyond shot…

Take a look at the bottom of the front right spindle. I don’t know if I’ll JB Weld it or try to acquire more spindles. 
I have some cheap China bearings I will throw in there for now, just so I can roll her, but first order of business is check the health of the Kohler and get these fried wires fixed…

7C9B2830-FDF9-4CDB-B204-2FD957951BAB.jpeg

53194E07-F22C-425A-8FE6-81CBFD5A5B38.jpeg

21BD4615-5D15-457C-8A3A-33DD7F7114ED.jpeg

 

 

 

Hey Tim, I don't think you want to salvage that IMO. IMG_0502.jpg.be9b25a7db2cc445fcc1914886e9d074.jpgI know this might look a bit like scrap metal :D but it's actually pretty decent. I think it's from a b-100, I can't remember but I think it would work for you. The spindles are decent (not like NOS) and I can look around and maybe come up with a wheel. I'm a bit north of you but it's yours if you want it.

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Horse Newbie

Thanks @ineedanother,

I noticed the spindles in your pic has a threaded hole in the ends. Do you know if the C-160’s came that way, or not?

Right now my spindle ends have a hole for a cotter pin.

Does anybody else know ?… @ebinmaine

As long as they would work, that really doesn’t matter that much to me…

@ineedanother,

probably would be cheaper than gas for you to mail the spindles to me… naturally I will be paying the cost of shipping if I wind up taking them.

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ineedanother
4 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Thanks @ineedanother,

I noticed the spindles in your pic has a threaded hole in the ends. Do you know if the C-160’s came that way, or not?

Right now my spindle ends have a hole for a cotter pin.

Does anybody else know ?… @ebinmaine

As long as they would work, that really doesn’t matter that much to me…

@ineedanother,

probably would be cheaper than gas for you to mail the spindles to me… naturally I will be paying the cost of shipping if I wind up taking them.

I'm a bit of a newby myself and really don't know. I have a '73 no-name with tapped spindles but everything else I'm looking at has c-clips. I think the most critical issue is the width of the rim hub. If you can post some pics of the spindle with measurements, I'm sure someone can help you out. I likely have something but am not the best at shipping but can work that out if that's the best route.

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Horse Newbie

Thanks @ineedanother,

I’ll post some more detailed pics with measurements on this thread as soon as I get a chance.

If it works out that I get spindles from you I will PM you .

Edited by Horse Newbie
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Blasterdad
6 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

image.jpg

I make my own harnesses, all new wire & individual weatherproof female spade terminals to the switch.

 

 

 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

my spindle ends have a hole for a cotter pin.

Does anybody else know ?… @ebinmaine

As long as they would work, that really doesn’t matter that much to me…

 

I've had up to a 1977 chassis as is your own. 

That's what Cinnamon Horse is from the frame down.  

That has tapped ends along all the 60s and 70s machines we've done. 

56 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

has c-clips. I think the most critical issue is the width of the rim hub.

The C-clip style and cotter pin through style would work fine but I do prefer the heavier end bolt for my own usage.  

 

 

56 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

am not the best at shipping but can work that out if that's the best route

No worries there. 

USPS has everything you need right at the Post office.  

 

 

 

23 minutes ago, Blasterdad said:

I make my own harnesses, all new wire & individual weatherproof female spade terminals to the switch.

 

 

 

 

The ONLY way to go.   

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kpinnc
On 1/31/2023 at 2:56 PM, Horse Newbie said:

Yeah… when I get to checking over all the wires, it most likely will wind up being a rewire…

 

That's what I would do. Complete rewire, and you know you're good. It's not a complex model to rewire. Heck, just bring it over here and I'll help if you want. Probably as close as I'll get to a C160 anyway! :lol:

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, kpinnc said:

Probably as close as I'll get to a C160 anyway! :lol:

 

 

 

 

:hide:

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