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Joker72

74 D200 Restore in Pennsylvania

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Joker72

Everything seems to be within specs.  Going to build an electrolysis tank tomorrow.

20230102_175822.jpg.677f0147f0d3165bb44034a499707868.jpg

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Joker72

First stab at electrolysis.

20230103_191616.jpg.30c4007f1bd1cadbfc1df8f874dd63f8.jpg

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Joker72

She's brewing now.

20230103_201545.jpg

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Pullstart

Positive anode, grounded part right?  Positive charge pulls the garbage.

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oliver2-44
On 1/3/2023 at 7:46 PM, Joker72 said:

She's brewing now.

20230103_201545.jpg

Good idea using old licence plates as you sacrificial anodes. While they work ok with the painted side out, they may work slightly better with the plated/bare steel side out. 

Edited by oliver2-44

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Handy Don
10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

While they work ok with the painted side out, they may work slightly better with the plated/bare steel side out

As they are now, there is no direct line from the part to the conducting part of the anodes. Plus, most license plates are coated on the back side to prevent rust--that coating prevents electrical contact with the electrolyte solution

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oliver2-44

@Joker72 What part do you have in the pot?

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pfrederi
22 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

@Joker72 What part do you have in the pot?

 Looks like the whole block

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Joker72

It was the oil pan.  Wanted to start with that before I threw the block in.  I thought the same thing about the license plates.  Will turn on next pass.

 

I'm pleased with the initial results.  The cast iron looks clean.  Will finish it up w a wire brush.

 

 

20230104_123310.jpg

Edited by Joker72
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Handy Don
3 minutes ago, Joker72 said:

I'm pleased with the initial results.  The cast iron looks clean.  Will finish it up w a wire brush.

 

What amperage did you use?

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Joker72

2 amps.  Let it sit over night.  12 hrs.  Probably wasn't as exact as I should have been on the washing detergent.

Edited by Joker72
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oliver2-44
48 minutes ago, Joker72 said:

2 amps.  Let it sit over night.  12 hrs.  Probably wasn't as exact as I should have been on the washing detergent.

I use 10 amps at 12v and it will come out cleaner than you show. I have used 10 amps at 24 volts on some really rusty stuff and thats cooking. I’ve never need real exact on washing detergent. If I’m doing a lot of parts I add a scoop every so often when it looks like it’s not building up much foam/scum when cooking. 

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Joker72

@oliver2-44I will give it a shot.  Was a little shy on the first attempt.  Thanks for the guidance.  

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kpinnc
1 hour ago, Joker72 said:

I'm pleased with the initial results.  The cast iron looks clean.  Will finish it up w a wire brush.

 

Definitely paint it quick after the e-tank. It will flash rust quick!

 

Just my opinions- but I am not so sure I'd do the jugs in the electrolysis. The bores and guides will rust, and you'll lose the machined surface. In the very least, you'll need to IMMEDIATELY spray it down with oil when you remove it from the tank. 

 

Also be sure to use straight iron or steel in the sacrificial side. No galvanized, and definitely no stainless. Those not only make a mess, but they give off some deadly chemicals. Stainless creates cyanide in the water!

Edited by kpinnc
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Joker72

Would you guys recommend 12 hrs at 10 amp?? Left over night?

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kpinnc
12 minutes ago, Joker72 said:

Would you guys recommend 12 hrs at 10 amp?? Left over night?

 

You won't have any issues with duration. The process only attacks corrosion. Raw steel won't be affected. I left an old planter in an e-tank for a week. I think it was about a 5 amp setup, but it makes little difference. Once it stops fizzing, it's done.

 

BUT as I said before, cast iron will flash rust right in front of you once exposed to open air. Oil it or prime it as fast as you can!

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oliver2-44

When I pull parts from my e tank I use a good brush and scrub them down with dishwashing detergent to get the black film off them. Then I dry them and set them in the hot sun or in front of a heat lamp till warm.   That will usually hold the flash rust off for a while. If I’m etanking a bunch of parts and want to wait and prime them all together I have stacked them in a large tote with a heat lamp on them. I tried storing them in the spare bedroom under the bed, but got “the look” :hide: and didn’t do that again. 

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oliver2-44
30 minutes ago, Joker72 said:

Would you guys recommend 12 hrs at 10 amp?? Left over night?

Because the removal is line of sight between part and anode, sometimes I run them one way overnight, then rotate them to get some other areas that are still rusty or tight paint lined up with anodes and run them tell all is loose. I also like to hang my part or space it off the bottom by setting it on some non conducting spacers like pvc pipe.  If you do a lot of parts this will keep the rust that settles in the bottom of the tank from making an electrical path between the part and anode, which can damage your part 

Edited by oliver2-44
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Pullstart

Here is an entire e-tank thread :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

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Handy Don
12 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

I use 10 amps at 12v and it will come out cleaner than you show. I have used 10 amps at 24 volts on some really rusty stuff and thats cooking. I’ve never need real exact on washing detergent. If I’m doing a lot of parts I add a scoop every so often when it looks like it’s not building up much foam/scum when cooking. 

It IS possible to overdo the washing soda--more is not necessarily better. @Pullstart's thread has several good suggestions :) as does @oliver2-44.

 

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Pullstart

While that has merit @Handy Don, I’ve generally guesstimated a cup or so into a 30 or so gallon tote and called it good enough.  I’ve never done any measuring.

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Handy Don
2 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

While that has merit @Handy Don, I’ve generally guesstimated a cup or so into a 30 or so gallon tote and called it good enough.  I’ve never done any measuring.

Agree completely.

That proportion is about what I used with great success. Temptation is to try to speed things up by adding an extra cup (or two or three). More is better, right? NOT! Too much soda increases the conductivity of the solution to where it can effectively short out the charger.

My only regret with this method was that I didn't have a larger drum handy and had to make do with a 5 gal bucket. :lol:

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Pullstart

I’ll say, the 24V hilo battery charger was a game changer over batteries in line with an automotive charger of any sort.

CDC7E549-0701-4DF3-909A-F1A3891328E1.jpeg

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