ronhatch 405 #1 Posted September 29, 2022 I think the pictures, for the most part, tell the story. Other then the grinder the total cost was $10 and that was for the 2 knobs. The angle is fixed at 33 degrees. It can be reversed for left hand blades. I also set a stop clamp behind the sliding block so I start grinding at the same place everytime. There is an aluminum angle on the front side of the blade hold too so the wood is protected from the vice. Note the notch in the bottom of the blade holder that fits in the vice so its held more securely. The threaded 5/16" rod is threaded into the grinder almost all the way so the grinder can pivot on the rod. 1 - 1 of 1 Posts 8 13 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,037 #2 Posted September 29, 2022 @ronhatch looks like a very effective solid finish , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,570 #3 Posted September 29, 2022 Very nice! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EB-80/8inPA 1,513 #4 Posted September 29, 2022 Nice jig! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger R 434 #5 Posted September 29, 2022 That is awesome. I now have a new project to add to the list 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 724 #7 Posted September 30, 2022 gotta love those flap wheels. good job! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ronhatch 405 #9 Posted October 1, 2022 Here are a couple of pictures of 2 up-grades /improvements I made that makes it a little easier to use. The first is a spring to hold the grinder away from the sliding block and I added a lock nut so the 5/16" threaded rod is now tight in the side of the grinder. The result is much less play in the unit. I still plan on installing 2, 5/16" ID flange bushings on each side of the sliding block for the rod to slide through smoothly. The second is a 'stop' so you start at the same place each time, which is kinda important. FYI: I like to use a oil stone after I sharpen the blades to dress up the new edge. Ron 1 - 4 of 4 Posts 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,849 #10 Posted October 2, 2022 Great clever idea. End result is an always straight bevel which is flat and not hollow ground such as when done free hand on a grinder. Flat bevel creates a much stronger edge. @SparkyThis thread should be pinned somewhere where it may be accessed easily. Here it will eventually be lost pushed into obscurity by new threads. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,037 #11 Posted October 4, 2022 @ronhatch like the oil finish detail , usually finish my blades with a fine file , to minimize metal loss. those decks need a regular check for what's going on .once I started a regular look see , for anything , issues stopped . also prop up my decks in the sun , while i,m looking things over . any cleaning , and oil soaking , is metal hot drawing in the oil to stop rust and kill off the grunge. another repetitive problem , stopped , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ronhatch 405 #12 Posted October 4, 2022 (edited) I have to conserve on metal and make these blades last as long as I can, because I don't think I can buy blades with a double 'D' hole and 2 small holes for spring pins for an old 42" 1967(?) deck. I've always sharpen my blades with a 12" mill file but because I'm getting older, I thought I'd try a flap wheel on my right angle grinder...BUT not doing it 'free hand' . Edited October 5, 2022 by ronhatch 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
