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I've started the restoration of my 1968 Raider 10. I originally found that they didn't make a Raider 10 in 1968 but through discussion with the experts here, we determined that my tractor was a 1968 that was badged a Raider 10 with the 10 HP Tecumseh.
Here's the starting point picture.
It was in better shape a few years ago but it was a slight casualty to hurricane Sandy. Nothing is rusted through, thankfully. It's unfortunate that it happened and I never expected it to get wet where it was. We were at least a 1/4 mile from the water -- probably more -- but, I came to work (where it was stored) the following day and we had a garbage dumpster from the business across the street and a boat dock in out parking lot...It was insane and very unexpected.
Anyway, I've disassembled a bunch of it and will e-tank the crap out of everything.
So my mom gave us kids cash for Christmas and told us to go find something for ourselves, I took a little 50 some mile road trip this morning and picked up a steel fender C-101. Overall, it seems to be well taken care of and in great shape! Except for the connecting rod issue that I knew about before heading to get it. I have a spare 10 horse that had the carb and starter bits robbed from it before I picked up my 8 speed donor for the 502 so I should be able to use the left overs to get this back running. Came with a RD deck and a big folder full of service records and receipts. All in all, this will be a worker and should give me the ability to refresh my 502 without the worry of downtime!
By WH 312-8 Fan
So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good?
I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together?
See that attached photos for a bit more clarity.
Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well.
Thanks for any help!
I've had this B for quite a few years now, and it's been my constant go to, and ALWAYS starts and is able to do everything I need it to, even when ... it probably shouldn't - haha
With that being said, it's time that my favorite gets some TLC. It's going to be slow going ... as I'm still using it as my go to tractor. Sheet metal first - then I'll do the frame and other bits while the motor is at the machine shop. Will be using Base/Clear urethane and High build primer (its much more forgiving on the small imperfections when I block it out to be sure its straight)
Started with the seat pan ... It is in great shape just the paint is WAY tired so I'm just hitting it with some 60 grit paper on the DA.
Geno media blasted this hood for me a week ago, Sandblasting profiles the metal so I had to run the DA over it too, but it's come out alright ... there are quite a few dents that need to be fixed but nothing 'major' - unlike the original hood. It's just in a self etching primer to allow me to bodywork it.
Stay Tuned for more!