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So I hooked up a gas tank & this thing fired right up and ran smooth as can be, it looks like someone just stopped using it...


Just to test drive it I need to get a belt.


Things that it needs are

Throttle cable

steering wheel

and the part that surrounds the dash controls is cracked pretty bad, I could fix but it would never be the same.



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On 2/13/2018 at 9:42 AM, mrshaft696 said:


Ive been re-reading everything & I guess I still don't understand how to tell if the condenser is conducting to ground?  Also the whole assembly should be grounded too from what I have read, and I could possibly disconnect my kill from the ignition for testing.


Just it stopped sparking after I took off the armature, the only reason I did it was because I wanted to put some electric tape on wires that were rubbing under the shroud.


Also been reading on how to set/check the timing, looks pretty tricky but im sure I can do it, kind of seems like I might have to do it since I messed with the position of the armature.


With your points, you need to make sure all of the pitting / corrosion is gone.   I remove them and go to town with sand paper until they're spotless.  


Reinstall & set the maximum points gap to 0.020"....when setting the gap, make sure the nut on the terminal is tightened down.


For timing, you'll need a dial gauge (to measure piston position relative to TDC) and an ohmmeter (to monitor when the points start to open).


I zero it out at TDC, then go nearly a full rev and when I hit the spec (for this H50 below, it's 0.080" Before Top Dead Center; BTDC).



Disconnect the condenser and kill wire from the magneto terminal and tighten the nut back down.


Hook-up 1 ohmmeter terminal to the magneto terminal and the other to ground (I use the magneto casing)... set it for continuity testing.


I then cheat a little by loosening the bolts holding the magneto just enough where I can rotate it.


Next carefully/slowly rotate the magneto until the ohmmeter indicates a break in continuity.


tighten the magneto bolts down and do a full rev and confirm that you lose continuity (points start to open) at the BTDC spec for your engine.


I wrote on the magneto for advancing/retarding the timing:



Here's an "exciting" video from a Tecumseh engineer.  I've done this on a few tecs...and find it much easier to do with the head off.


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