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mrshaft696

charger 8

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So I picked this up for 40 bucks over the weekend..... this is one of the only places on the web that I can even find any reference to it at all. I assume it is because it is not the most popular and has a vertical engine... This one has a 8hp Tecumseh , looks to be in good shape. It hasn't ran in a while but the oil looks clean & hoses in good shape.

 

Is there any info out there on these? I can find manuals for a commando 8 or a charger v8...

 

I am really annoyed that I don't understand how to free wheel the hydrostatic trans yet, so its a problem to move around.  When I jack it up the wheels spin opposite (open diff).

Gonna try and start it this weekend after I hook up some new fuel lines.

 

 

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:WRS:              This manual on your transmission should be helpful.     :text-coolphotos:

 

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35 minutes ago, mrshaft696 said:

I can find manuals for a commando 8 or a charger v8..

 

Yours is the Charger V8, the V Stands for vertical engine.

As far as the release valve for the trans... the only Charger V8 that I have had experience with also had the no neutral issue. The T handle on the left side says that it will shift the trans into neutral, but there is no neutral pin installed on the Eaton trans from the factory.

 

:WRS:

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:WRS: While  verticals are not on most bucket lists with the fellas here don't mean we don't know they exist. Yours looks pristine and for 40 clams I woulda bought it just for the hood ornament! :) You done real good and you came to the right place for any :wh: and others will be along to welcome you and tell you what they know about it.

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:WRS: Nice score on that Charger V8. I used to have its cousin the Commando V8 (same engine but 3 speed transmission). While not as popular or desirable as the horizontal engine tractors, they are very capable little machines, mine proved itself several times after our big ice storm last January, really hated to see it go but my neighbor had a couple chainsaws I needed and he needed a tractor to pull his fertilizer spreader and sprayer, so we traded. There is a manual for the Charger/Commando V8s in the manuals section here, I will see if I can find it again and post a link for you. 

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Here is the manual I found, your tractor like mine is probably a '70 model. This manual is for the '69 models, but I found nearly everything to be the same as my '70. Hope this helps, and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask, lots of very knowledgable people here who are more than happy to help you out 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Professor1990 said:

:WRS: Nice score on that Charger V8. I used to have its cousin the Commando V8 (same engine but 3 speed transmission). While not as popular or desirable as the horizontal engine tractors, they are very capable little machines, mine proved itself several times after our big ice storm last January, really hated to see it go but my neighbor had a couple chainsaws I needed and he needed a tractor to pull his fertilizer spreader and sprayer, so we traded. There is a manual for the Charger/Commando V8s in the manuals section here, I will see if I can find it again and post a link for you. 

 

Here is the manual I found, your tractor like mine is probably a '70 model. This manual is for the '69 models, but I found nearly everything to be the same as my '70. Hope this helps, and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask, lots of very knowledgable people here who are more than happy to help you out 

 

 

Thanks for clarifying that the charger is a charger V8 makes sense.  It definitely was not kept outside its whole life but it has been for a while, as there is moss growing on the seat.

 

Neat that the trans is made by eaton, it looks pretty heavy duty compared to any of the late model craftsman & other tractors I have.  Makes it a total pain to move around at the moment, since you cant really pick up the rear fenders since that back end flips back to access internals.

 

I am going to try and start it this week and see if it moves, I think the motor looks good, I usually have problems with the carbs from tractors that have been sitting.  I am pretty interested to see if the 8hp is adequate for the machine.  I Have a OHV 12hp briggs that I could put in it should it not work out.

 

Plans are to rewire it & put big tires on it, I don't think it needs to be repainted or any cosmetics since the patina is pretty nice, just needs cleaned off.  The only thing missing I can tell is the cigarette lighter & deck of course.  I plan to use it for tasks on our horse farm.

 

One other thing I have to learn is it has a rectifier mounted under the steering wheel, I guess this works in conjunction with the stator/alternator to charge the battery.  All the newer tractors I have just have a diode.

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Welcome to the forum.

Can see the tractor ID plate below the voltage regulator. Should have the model number and serial number on it. They may provide what is needed for more accurate info.

Click on the fuzzy pictures below.

It appears the 1970 model used a Tecumseh engine.

There may be quite a few service bulletins depending on the model and serial numbers.

 

Garry

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6 hours ago, mrshaft696 said:

 

I am going to try and start it this week and see if it moves, I think the motor looks good, I usually have problems with the carbs from tractors that have been sitting.  I am pretty interested to see if the 8hp is adequate for the machine.  I Have a OHV 12hp briggs that I could put in it should it not work out.

 

 

I think you will find that the little 8 HP Tecumseh will be more than adequate for the machine and anything you want to throw at it. I put mine through her paces more than a few times, as long as I could get traction, moving anything wasn't a problem. Mine had a 2" ball on the back, and regularly was used to drag my trailers in and out of my backyard as it was easier to do with the tractor than the pickup, also moved several non running tractors around the place with it.

 

This was on cleanup duty after last years ice storm...the little V8 and my C125 both got worked pretty hard for a few weeks after that ordeal

17992282_384071001993230_5576701309886928661_n.jpg

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To help you out with your neutral issue I took a pic of an Eaton trans that I had laying around. I'm not sure what the P.O. had it rigged up for.

 

Circled in yellow is the speed/direction control lever.

Circled in red is the neutral pin. It should be 90 degrees to the speed/direction control. This is the pin that was nonexistent on the transmission that was in the Charger V8 that I worked on. There wasn't even a place to install the neutral pin. If you do not have this pin on your tranny, then it is not equipped with a neutral/free wheel option.

IMG_20180206_164145093-min.jpg.e2722bfdd9160f7ee169641cbe749eb3.jpg

 

 

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

 

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19 hours ago, Achto said:

To help you out with your neutral issue I took a pic of an Eaton trans that I had laying around. I'm not sure what the P.O. had it rigged up for.

 

Circled in yellow is the speed/direction control lever.

Circled in red is the neutral pin. It should be 90 degrees to the speed/direction control. This is the pin that was nonexistent on the transmission that was in the Charger V8 that I worked on. There wasn't even a place to install the neutral pin. If you do not have this pin on your tranny, then it is not equipped with a neutral/free wheel option.

 

 

 

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

 

 

thanks, I didn't realize that it might not be an option, feel bad for folks that got them stuck out in a field...

 

Might try and get it started tonight & hopefully drive it this weekend we will see, weather has been rough here....if not the weekend  I can get into it.

 

 

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Ok so I spent some on the tractor, ran new fuel lines and a few other things...threw in a battery and the tractor starting cranking...

 

Last night i had spark but it was pretty weak, today i took the flywheel off and set the points and cleaned them etc... now no spark....

 

So i am not exactly sure the problem but last night i got a few back fire out the exhaust, now nothing at all.  So the starter works, carb is clean, fuel lines are clear, this thing is old school with points and all.   

 

The points are clean looking so I dont know what happened, so I have to start researching parts for this engine because i got nothing...

 

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there was mouse nests etc in there, a few taps to the starter and it was working.... It would not fire off, but i can tell it is getting plenty of fuel, I am 99% sure the points/condenser etc are screwed up, so i have to find where to get  parts for this...

 

 

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That engine is off of a Craftsman product. That 143 number tells you that. There is a list put out by Tecumseh that cross 

references it to the Tecumseh model number. Ok I went and looked it up, it is VM100-157015A. Believe that is a 10hp

engine.Some of the aftermarket points I have had trouble with in getting a spark.from. Part number for the points is

30547A and the condenser is 30548B.

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Did you clean the new set of points ? Sometimes they have a slight coating on them, just use a piece of paper with some brake cleaner on it , pull it through when they are closed. You can test them by using an ohm meter.

 

Sarge

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28 minutes ago, Sarge said:

Did you clean the new set of points ? Sometimes they have a slight coating on them, just use a piece of paper with some brake cleaner on it , pull it through when they are closed. You can test them by using an ohm meter.

 

Sarge

 

They are not new, I was not getting a good spark ( I think) so i took the flywheel off to see what was going on. It was sparking last night but after i cleaned and set the points to .020 gap  I got nothing at all.  I tried a ton of other gap settings just for the heck of it but still no go....There was tons of mouse crap and junk in the head & everwhere, so now everything is clean but no spark.

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Need to use an ohm meter and check continuity between the points and ground - if the engine block is not grounded tight it can cause a no contact/spark issue. Teckky's are touchy as it is...lol.

 

Sarge

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:text-yeahthat:Clean them good and set to .020. That condenser has been in there a looong time also.

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10 minutes ago, Howie said:

:text-yeahthat:Clean them good and set to .020. That condenser has been in there a looong time also.

 

thanks, yeah im just annoyed since it was sparking a little bit, but now that i took it out to inspect & check nothing is happening. Very annoying.. the condenser is rusted so I can try replacing... The points look fine & are shiny & clean. I  wire brushed all the exterior of the parts, figured it would help.

 

I am going big tires with it... 23x9.5x12 barely fits......

 

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Have had brand new ones do the same. I clean them and avoid touching the contacts because even that can affect them. 

Always like new condensers also and that one is old. They can get weak and not hold the charge that is generated. Holds 

less and will allow a weak spark. I have a tester here that puts current in the condenser to test and if not discharged will

give you a good jolt on a good one!

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3 minutes ago, Howie said:

Have had brand new ones do the same. I clean them and avoid touching the contacts because even that can affect them. 

Always like new condensers also and that one is old. They can get weak and not hold the charge that is generated. Holds 

less and will allow a weak spark. I have a tester here that puts current in the condenser to test and if not discharged will

give you a good jolt on a good one!

 

 

so I guess i can only buy the points and condenser, not the entire assembly?

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