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Sparky

Head gasket install tips

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 So now that my broken head-bolt issue is behind me it’s time to install the new head gasket. I’ve done this before but it’s been like 4 years since my last head gasket install. 

  What’s the proper foot pounds or inch pounds of torque? My torque wrench is in inch pounds. 

  What’s the popular consensus on using any sort of gasket goo? Yes/No? If yes what type or brand is best.

  The motor in question is a K321 on my C-145.

  Thanks guys!

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In addition to what Craig posted, I have always hot torqued the head bolts after the engine has been operated and is at operating temperature.

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Brian miller mentioned cleaning and re-using the old head gasket and simply spraying it with silver spray paint.  I like this idea as the few new head gasket I have used seem to shrink after many hours and require retorquing.  Gets really annoying.  If you clean them spotless, and the engine does not burn oil, I have not had one leak.  I have had them leak on oil burners as I think the oil is not compressible.  I retired a Kohler M14 that used 1 qt per hour.    

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I always went by just what is in the Kohler manual and that has always worked for me.

I would guess you have this one Sparkeye but just in case

Kohler K-Series SM TP-2379 LR.pdf

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Some years back I was in a bind trying to get an engine re-assembled and not having a new gasket I decided to use the old one - it looked perfectly good! So after that engine ran like it didnt care whether it had a new gasket or not, I have since often used the old one when its not convenient to wait on a new one - never had any problems (so far!)

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I personally would not reuse the head gasket. I decarbon, sand head flat torque to specs run up to temp then let cool and then retorque head.

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27 minutes ago, tunahead72 said:

@Sparky -- This may be useful. It's my go-to reference any time I have to replace one of these things:

 

http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/headgasket.pdf

Another good read. Your link never mentioned using any type of gasket sealer...Craig’s link recommended it. As usual, confusing 😁. 

  Thanks!

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 I use no gasket sealant even with copper head gaskets. 

IMG_20170605_160554.jpg

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Posted (edited)

GEEESSS Mike all ever did was clean them up  do a little sanding on the block and put the gasket on. But I always flat sanded the head on a flat steel bench with some 120 to 150 sand paper. I was told they do not make the reusable ones any more. That is why the fiber ones are available now and they are throw away`s. Then just torque them down. I never used any glue or adhesive because I tore some apart that where from the factory they did not put glue on there's. see you at Zag`s this weekend. Looks like no rain?

Edited by Retierd Wrencher
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Interesting discussion.  The methods and reuse or not of gaskets seems to be all over the map.  Since no one has reported significant failures i guess that means it doesn't make much difference what you use/do....  To add my $.02 i sometimes reuse and do use copper spray..just because i have it.

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These are not aviation engines.  A visual inspection every so often will tell if the gasket is leaking, and that way you can address it.  It is such a quick job, no biggie if they leak several year after reusing them.  I do however agree with resurfacing the head flat again.  Very interesting article.

 

On the flipside, if access to the head / gasket is difficult such as a motorcycle, it would be wise to replace.  

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6 hours ago, Fordiesel69 said:

 

On the flipside, if access to the head / gasket is difficult such as a motorcycle, it would be wise to replace.  

onan back head  :hide:

 

 

 

 

eric j

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So it’s been awhile. Let the carb body soak for a week and rebuilt it. Then it was head gasket time, bought and used the copper spray stuff. Not sure if it needed it or not but it couldn’t hurt right? I sanded the points, kinda wish I ordered new ones as it has a little hiccup or a skip at hi rpms. Or maybe it needs a bit more carb adjustment.

 

78D95395-C5D5-42A9-87EB-1FC0DC244E2A.jpeg

A38C1E81-CAD2-4450-B08A-FFAF284F6F58.MOV

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:text-+1: Agreed, that little stumble does sound like it's in the points. 

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Try a little Marvel Mistery oil in the fuel. The valve springs may be having trouble keeping up to the high rpm's.

My go to head gasket sealer is Never Seize. Hasn't let me down yet and some of them should never have been reused but all I had at the time.

 

Garry

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19 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Try a little Marvel Mistery oil in the fuel. The valve springs may be having trouble keeping up to the high rpm's.

My go to head gasket sealer is Never Seize. Hasn't let me down yet and some of them should never have been reused but all I had at the time.

 

Garry

@gwest_ca What's the best ratio of Marvel to gas?

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Our bottles are metric so did so digging. They recommend 4 oz. to 10 gallons which would be US gallons. Converted to metric I use slightly less and it does the trick. If I don't use it the skip is back before the next tank of fuel is used up on a C-120.

 

Garry

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25 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Our bottles are metric so did so digging. They recommend 4 oz. to 10 gallons which would be US gallons. Converted to metric I use slightly less and it does the trick. If I don't use it the skip is back before the next tank of fuel is used up on a C-120.

 

Garry

Thanks!!

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One more tidbit of info....ran the tractor for over an hour and let it cool off, checked the head bolts and EVERY one of em needed to be re-torqued. 

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On 10/2/2017 at 8:07 AM, 953 nut said:

In addition to what Craig posted, I have always hot torqued the head bolts after the engine has been operated and is at operating temperature.

 

2 hours ago, Sparky said:

One more tidbit of info....ran the tractor for over an hour and let it cool off, checked the head bolts and EVERY one of em needed to be re-torqued. 

:text-yeahthat:

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Did you use the copper spray gasket then Sparkeye? I noticed some recent exhaust side leakage on a freshed up 10 hp of mine and just wondering if I should try it or just learn how & have the patienceto glass a head. 

I've got the same hiccup on a 1257 but it goes away with a little fine tweaking of the hi speed adjust screw or when under load. Probably has original points in it so new ones are not the worst idea either. :)

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