Jump to content

Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, MarkS said:

I think i am just going to open up the transmission anyway. Not that anything is wrong with it,

I am a charter member of the "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX TI CLUB"! But if you feel you want to dive into it here is a good thread on pulling hubs and one on rebuilding the transaxle.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, MarkS said:

Okay, well I just got the back tires off tonight, and am still trying to figure out the best way for me to get the hubs off (I dont curently have any types of pullers):think:. There doesnt seem to be any up and down play in the axle, but its kinda hard for me to tell. I think i am just going to open up the transmission anyway. Not that anything is wrong with it, but I just feel that i would kick myself for not seing the inside of it while I have everything this far apart.

If you do not happen to have an old Wheel horse hub to use as a puller, a Chevy brake rotor may work if you drill out the wheel stud holes a tad.Also, you could just use any brake rotor with a heavy center and drill new holes to suit .  I usually just pick up five six inch grade 5 or grade 8 bolts at TSC. Of course you may think that with only a limited threaded portion that the bolts are not long enough to pull the hub.


 I start out by using a socket to push against the axle and get increasing lengths of socket and socket extensions as i run out of threads.  As you add even and steady pressure to the puller, you can also add some hammer blows[ not necessary to hit it very hard]to the center of the puller to relieve the pressure on the bolts a bit. You can actually hear the steel change tone as you tap the center.


 be creative when you use those sockets. I often nest half inch drive inside 3/4 or one inch drive to get the length of center pusher that I need  When you also use penetrating oil to pull hubs, those hammer taps also make the oil get where it needs to go.

Edited by ohiofarmer

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Update 9/10/17

I now have most of the parts painted and ready to go back together. Things are starting to look very good. I also have been working to swap out all the bolts for new stainless steel ones. The biggest obstacle yet will be the transmission still. I havent got the hubs of yet to change the axle seals, but I do have a brake rotor that the holes line up perfectly with. Now i just need to get ahold of a pulley puller to pull the hubs off. Should I be concerned with the condition of the gasket between the two sides of the transmission?



More pics from last post


  • Thanks 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure why you need a pulley puller to pull the hubs.

If you have the rotor with the correct bolt pattern, just buy a 7/16-20 X 36"  threaded rod and 10 nuts and flat washers.

Cut the rod into 5  7" long studs.  Thread through the hub and lock with a washer and nut on the inside.

Slide the rotor on the studs,  insert spacer on the end of the axle ( a deep socket works well),  install the greased washer and nut on the greased studs.   Pull the hub off by slowly tightening the 5 nuts.    :twocents-02cents:


Painted parts look great.....:text-coolphotos:

Edited by Ed Kennell
  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By lak1965
      Like many others on this site I decided Sunday it was time to install the New / Used Cab I bought in spring with the help of my brother. I never had it installed so was not sure what I was in for but it was assembled when I received it. First Picture was install rear frame under seat. It was at this point I went to RedSquare and downloaded the manual and printed it out for reference.

      Next install front of frame. Had to remove some brackets that mounted to the dash and drill a hole one each side of foot boards to mount the inside brace. That is a forward swept axle and tires you see sitting in the shed. Next spring project to mount that on the old C-160. Also I will change the way the lights are mounted on the hardtop.

      And finally the finished product. I was surprised at how well it fit and how easy it was to install. Let it Snow, Let it snow , Let it snow!

    • By Keith
      What other models can I use the upper steering shaft for my C-120?   
      Are there aftermarket steering wheels for this tractor?
    • By Keith
      C-120 upper steering shaft wanted
      I believe this is 
      # 104887 or 92-4987 
    • By Fun Engineer
      Has anyone been successful mating a D series mid grader blade to a c-series?
    • By Row Cropper
      Very good condition 48" Wheel Horse mower deck. Freshly serviced, repaired & renovated ready for use. Underside of the deck was cleaned to bright metal then coated with 2 coats of "Easy Slide" graphite paint to protect the metal and reduce grass sticking. Blades are sharpened, all gauge wheel axles greased, spindles greased. One patch was needed near the discharge chute (see photos of top-side patch and bottom-side patch. Top side was painted to cover bare spots where paint was missing and to Match the patch to the rest of the deck. This paint job is not a show paint job, but one to preserve the metal after all rust was removed. Overall this deck is very solid and should give many more years of service if cared for properly! The price will go up in the spring, so don't wait, these decks are getting harder to find as time goes by! Mule drive is included. 
      If interested, PM me for complete album of photos.