Jump to content

Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, MarkS said:

I think i am just going to open up the transmission anyway. Not that anything is wrong with it,

I am a charter member of the "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX TI CLUB"! But if you feel you want to dive into it here is a good thread on pulling hubs and one on rebuilding the transaxle.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, MarkS said:

Okay, well I just got the back tires off tonight, and am still trying to figure out the best way for me to get the hubs off (I dont curently have any types of pullers):think:. There doesnt seem to be any up and down play in the axle, but its kinda hard for me to tell. I think i am just going to open up the transmission anyway. Not that anything is wrong with it, but I just feel that i would kick myself for not seing the inside of it while I have everything this far apart.

If you do not happen to have an old Wheel horse hub to use as a puller, a Chevy brake rotor may work if you drill out the wheel stud holes a tad.Also, you could just use any brake rotor with a heavy center and drill new holes to suit .  I usually just pick up five six inch grade 5 or grade 8 bolts at TSC. Of course you may think that with only a limited threaded portion that the bolts are not long enough to pull the hub.

 

 I start out by using a socket to push against the axle and get increasing lengths of socket and socket extensions as i run out of threads.  As you add even and steady pressure to the puller, you can also add some hammer blows[ not necessary to hit it very hard]to the center of the puller to relieve the pressure on the bolts a bit. You can actually hear the steel change tone as you tap the center.

 

 be creative when you use those sockets. I often nest half inch drive inside 3/4 or one inch drive to get the length of center pusher that I need  When you also use penetrating oil to pull hubs, those hammer taps also make the oil get where it needs to go.

Edited by ohiofarmer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update 9/10/17

I now have most of the parts painted and ready to go back together. Things are starting to look very good. I also have been working to swap out all the bolts for new stainless steel ones. The biggest obstacle yet will be the transmission still. I havent got the hubs of yet to change the axle seals, but I do have a brake rotor that the holes line up perfectly with. Now i just need to get ahold of a pulley puller to pull the hubs off. Should I be concerned with the condition of the gasket between the two sides of the transmission?

20170910_124051.jpg

20170906_170253.jpg

More pics from last post

20170910_124044.jpg

  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure why you need a pulley puller to pull the hubs.

If you have the rotor with the correct bolt pattern, just buy a 7/16-20 X 36"  threaded rod and 10 nuts and flat washers.

Cut the rod into 5  7" long studs.  Thread through the hub and lock with a washer and nut on the inside.

Slide the rotor on the studs,  insert spacer on the end of the axle ( a deep socket works well),  install the greased washer and nut on the greased studs.   Pull the hub off by slowly tightening the 5 nuts.    :twocents-02cents:

 

Painted parts look great.....:text-coolphotos:

Edited by Ed Kennell
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By stonecottage227
      Wanted - 1975 C100 Seat - I would also consider a cover as well
    • By Sarge
      Has anyone found a fuel gauge type cap to fit the 2-1/4" threaded neck on the plastic tanks in the C-series? My current cap leaks at much over 3/4 tank, would love to get a better-sealed unit with a gauge on it. I did find a Kelch to fit the D, it's a bit short but works great and doesn't leak, while still vented correctly.
       
      Sarge
    • By Gary L. Wood
      Guess I don’t understand what you mean by title and tags?
       
    • By skippy1969
      I'm selling my 1975 C160 Automatic because I'm moving in a different direction.
      It is in nice used condition and runs excellent and the hydro is strong.
      The original K341 runs great, starts easy no Kohler death rattle.
      It does smoke for a second or two when cold. But It doesn't appear to burn any oil between changes.
      I have a big list of new items I installed.
      All 4 tie rods and connecting rods from WheelHorseman 1000
      All 4 brand new original style Carlisle Turf Saver tires rear upgraded from 23X8.50X12 to 23X9.50X12.
      New battery,
      New belts+Idler pulley.
      New aftermarket analog hour meter.
      New OEM mule drive knob.
      OEM Mower clutch pin.
      NOS Hydro lever cover "Rare"!!!
      New aftermarket seat.
      New OEM headlight lens with LED headlights.
      New Wheelhorseman1000 rear plow mount. 
      New OEM INDAK ignition switch.
      New starter.
      Recent tunes up genuine Kohler points and condenser.
      New Ignition coil.
      This tractor comes with a newer model 42" mower deck "See pictures" it mows great!
      42" snow blade included with new Wheelhorseman1000 rear mount an a newer set of tire chains. I can subtract $150.00 if you don't want/need the plow and chains.
      Wheel weights shown are NOT included or available for sale, sorry.
      Asking $950.00 O.B.O.
      Pick up in Baraboo Wisconsin 53913.
      I might be able to meet up within 100 miles for gas money.
      Any questions,don't hesitate to ask.











       
    • By dmhill
      Hello all,
      Am in search of parts for my latest adventure. I am looking for the rear axle bracket and lift arm for a plow. Also in desperate need of the lift arm for the mowing deck (maybe same as lift arm for plow?). The previous owner just put a chain between the lift pivot and the connection on the deck.
      Any assistance would be appreciated.
      Darren
×