Ed Kennell 35,782 #1 Posted December 27, 2016 When your 520 stops charging, you can easily replace the R-R with a new $10.15 Amazon. Then if it still doesn't charge, check the 30A fuse in front of the engine. Or, you can check the fuse first and save $10.15. But then everyone should have a good spare R-R. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #2 Posted December 27, 2016 And if it's still not charging, Check for voltage in the Stator while running the engine by using a multi-meter and touching one lead to each of the stator lead connectors (the wires that come out of the same sheath that are connected to the Voltage Regulator/ Rectifier. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,782 #3 Posted December 27, 2016 Thanks @Mastiffman, but it is charging now that I replaced the bad fuse. I had checked the stator voltage and had 26.5VAC at 3KRPM, but only had 11VDC out of the R-R center lug. All is well. The moral of this post.....If it doesn't work, check the fuses first. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #4 Posted December 27, 2016 Yes always the cheap and easy first, what my old auto shop teacher preached, fuses then connections then start with the parts(battery/regulator/alternator/ect) trouble shooting,Jeff. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,782 #5 Posted December 27, 2016 I hear ya Jeff. The sad news is, I have replaced that fuse before with one leg eaten off. Me thinks it is time to invest in a new fuse holder. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,780 #6 Posted December 28, 2016 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: I hear ya Jeff. The sad news is, I have replaced that fuse before with one leg eaten off. Me thinks it is time to invest in a new fuse holder. $10.99 at AutoZone, may find it cheaper at other places. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #7 Posted December 28, 2016 Some times I think it's the "cheesy" fuse material now a days as much as the the fuse block as I had 1 do the same thing this summer even with dielectric grease when replaced,Jeff. 2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: I hear ya Jeff. The sad news is, I have replaced that fuse before with one leg eaten off. Me thinks it is time to invest in a new fuse holder. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #8 Posted December 28, 2016 (edited) Yes always check fuses first in the proverbial "process of elimination".... Interesting though. If the fuse is blowing, would that just be an indication of corrosion in the fuse block? @WVHillbilly520H Yeah I dont think that cheese covered in dielectric grease makes a good fuse anyhow. So good thing you got an actual fuse in their. Ha ha. Edited December 28, 2016 by Mastiffman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #9 Posted December 28, 2016 My cheese fuse, I keep it around as a reminder to check fuses first,Jeff. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #10 Posted December 28, 2016 You could glue it to the tractor key chain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,782 #11 Posted December 28, 2016 9 hours ago, Mastiffman said: . Interesting though. If the fuse is blowing, would that just be an indication of corrosion in the fuse block? My fuses never "blow", they just lose a leg. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HuntzNSam 80 #12 Posted December 28, 2016 This looks like fretting corrosion, an issue we have had trouble with at work. http://suddendocs.samtec.com/productspecs/fretting-corrosion.pdf We use lots of gold contacts now, but that's unrealistic for this fuse application. Definitely replace the holder- it takes two to tango - especially if fuses continue to show this problem. Use the dielectric grease. I'm not familiar with the 520H wiring, but if possible consider upgrading to a Maxi Fuse and holder. We manufacture electronic devices and recommended users fuse at 40A. Several years ago we had issues of erratic operation, until our techs discovered users that fused with standard ATO had too much voltage drop through the fuse, even though it never blew. We then supplied the Maxi fuse and holder, and issue gone. Voltage drop may not be an issue on the tractor, but it could overheat that fuse leading to fretting. Maxis are available in 30A. Page 8 http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/catalogs/littelfuse_automotive_passenger_car_solutions_catalog.pdf?la=en Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #13 Posted December 28, 2016 i prefer the Maxi fuses and their sockets as well - they just seem a lot more robust in construction albeit slightly higher costs initially . I wonder too if the amperage draw on that circuit is exceeding the limit of the wiring itself both in size and age...? Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 505 #14 Posted December 28, 2016 Yeah that's what I'm thinking Sarge. Like there's something going on with the wire that biting that fuse leg off. Maybe the Wire is corroded or maybe the contact at the molex is going bad.... After all it's a 520 and I think that we know what that means for the wiring harness. ha ha. Might time to replace that section of the wire and check out the molex if not done already. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,782 #15 Posted December 28, 2016 I just replaced the fuse holder with a 30A water proof holder. The old one was corroded badly. Time will tell. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #16 Posted December 28, 2016 What Molex connector and every wire/connections/ect gone completely through this spring(check out my "Good Friday 520 clean up" thread) after I brought it home...pics just before I cleaned the battery cables/posts,Jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites