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Herring Creek

New GT14 problems

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Just bought a new to me GT14. Was advertised as ready to go to work. Came with a tiller, plow, disk, and mower deck. Seemed like a good deal. Drove it around the yard. Agreed to buy it. 

 

Got her home. Worked ok for a bit (15 min). Hooked the disk up, disk had a broken Weld. $50 to get it fixed right. Old stuff breaks. 

 

So i hooked the plow up and get her adjusted. Does alright for a half hour. Then I start seeing smoke. Transmission starts smoking (hydrostatic) Tractor won't back up. Hydraulics won't work now. Let it cool off, drove it back to the house from the field. Figured I worked her too hard. 

 

Hooked the tiller up. Made a horrible banging noise. Went about 10 yards and it quit. Pulley wheel wrung off the shaft. Maybe a machinest can put a sleeve in it. Fortunately the gent I got it from had the original and I put a new woodruff key in it and while the tiller (which was a big draw for me) doesn't and won't work, at least the tractor will drive. 

 

So after all this over the last four days, I am disking today, I get to the end of the row, transmission smoking, hydros won't work, no reverse. 

 

This is is my first wheel horse and first tractor. Fluids are full and fresh. Feeling pretty frustrated after putting about three hours on it and basically have a red pile of crap in the yard. I don't think it was intentionally misrepresented by the seller and he has been helpful trying to help me troubleshoot this thing. 

 

Anyone else had had these issues with a GT14? Anyone aware if you can get a new transmission for one or if they can be rebuilt?

 

thanks 

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Sorry for the bad start you are having with :wh:.   I have no experience with a GT-14, but I am sure other qualified members will be here soon to offer help..

I see the GT-14 uses the Sundstrand 90-2062 hydro which is probably not as strong as a gear drive for ground engagement implements.

 

:text-welcomeconfetti:to the  :rs:

 

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hopefully the hydro isnt smoked. is the pump/ rearend clean? this can cause them to overheat.

also make sure you are running the engine at least 3/4 throttle ( 2700+ rpm ) or this can also cause it to over heat

I would change the fluid, first see what it has in it. the early years used Ford trans fluid and in 72 or 73 they went to motor oil. and use a Toro brand filter.

If all that fails and the hydro is bad any of the 1965 thru 1972 sunstrand gear hydros can be interchanged with the pump drive gear swapped. 

when the gt14 is up to par it is a true beast.

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Hello and   :text-welcomeconfetti: to the forum. I have a 520H that when the Hydro temp light comes on I know it's time to pull the seat and seat pan and clean out the cooling fins and body of the trans.  Not familiar with your model, but If it was me I would just clean the dickens out of that trans. and see if that helps.   :)

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:WRS:    Take a look at the manual for your Sundstrand and the trouble shooting guide. Also, clean the cooling fins, be sure your cooling fan is in place and the filter is a Toro hydr unit or NAPA 1410. As for the reverse problem, could be the reverse acceleration springs, @refracman hooked me up with a source for them a few years ago, made a tremendous difference.

 

If all else fails the hydro from an Electro or Charger can be modified to fit the GT_14. I have done this and there is a step by step tutorial I did to help you along. They are generally in better condition because they are lighter and tend to get less abuse.

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56 minutes ago, refracman said:

hopefully the hydro isnt smoked. is the pump/ rearend clean? this can cause them to overheat.

also make sure you are running the engine at least 3/4 throttle ( 2700+ rpm ) or this can also cause it to over heat

I would change the fluid, first see what it has in it. the early years used Ford trans fluid and in 72 or 73 they went to motor oil. and use a Toro brand filter.

If all that fails and the hydro is bad any of the 1965 thru 1972 sunstrand gear hydros can be interchanged with the pump drive gear swapped. 

when the gt14 is up to par it is a true beast.

Wheel Horse used Type A ATF .  Type A became Dexron (GMs Atf) Ford used type F Mercon.  Not so much an issue anymore as they now make a universal ATF good for Dexron 3 and Mercon 4 and earlier.

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Preciate the info gents. I'll take the power washer to her. She is right black and dusty. 

 

I let it sit for a good two hours, had a beer, took some deep breaths, went back out and the hydros lifted up. Worked for about 15 minutes then I reckon she got hit again and started slowing down and slowing down so I parked it took my 3 year old fishing. 

 

Seems to me she is only being difficult when she's hot. 

 

FYI she's a 1972. I do have copies of the manuals also. I'm just a redneck hose monkey so the idea of taking a transmission apart is about as daunting as brain surgery. Might as well be in Chinese. 

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The GT-14 has the Sundstrand Hydro Gear model 90-2062 (if original).  The symptoms you described are typical of a worn-out hydro pump.  It works great until it reaches operating temp, then fades....correct?  The only solution is to rebuild the hyd pump and I have done such a number of times...successfully.  This not so daunting a task.  I am a retired bean-counter and if I can do it...successfully....most anyone who knows what a box-end wrench is, can do the same.  

I can provide TONS of pics of the rebuild process, and refer you to a source for some parts, though not all parts are available anymore.

 

There are 9 pistons in a cylinder block that have brass surface SLIPPERS and these get scarred or scratched, allowing hot oil to bypass thru those imperfections, resulting in loss of pressure.  There are a few other components needing service..Charge Pump Housing, Gerotor set, Thrust Plate. These are steel and MAY require a machinist's  flat grinder.   Don't remove too much material from any part....just enough to eliminate the gouges or scratches.  Some REALLY DEEP gouges may not come out...get most of them though.  

You'd be will advised to install 3 new oil seals in the pump housing too... 

 

Essentially what needs doin' is to resurface the BRASS components of the pump...meticulously...by hand.  Depending on how deep the gouges are, use the infamous "WAX ON....WAX OFF...  technique to resurface the parts.  Use a machinist's SURFACE PLATE or THICK SHEET OF GLASS.  I start with 280 grit, then 400 grit, and finish with 600 grit with a drop of oil on the sand paper.  Don't make a mirror finish....just to a buff.  Try to keep pistons in their original cylinder bore as the sidewalls have mated over time.

 

NOTE.... here are a couple pics for reference.  

 

There MAY ALSO BE other components that have failed...or broken and these my be addressed too.  Valves, springs, O-rings and the like...not directly related to the components of the hyd pump.  

 

 

218 (20).JPG

218 (31)a.jpg

219 (5)a.jpg

220 063.JPG

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Thanks dave. 

 

While I might have the knowledge to do it, I don't have the tools or the space. I live in central VA. Anybody know of someone I can take it to or send it to? 

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Check with oldredrider.  He lives in central VA as well and is really a nice guy.  Tommy Jackson aka limited12 also lives in Richmond and is a super nice guy too.  Both are very knowledgable and could point you in the right direction.  Good to see another Virginian on here too!

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