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I'm having some trouble with my 418-A. I think it is ignition related, but I'm not completely sure. It starts and runs perfectly fine, but when I go to turn it off, it doesn't work. I can just turn the key into the 'off' position and take the key out while the tractor is still running and it will continue to run as if I hadn't turned the key off.
I'm trying to keep this tractor as original as possible, so I don't really want to buy a new ignition. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Wheel Horse 418-A
Model No. M18QS
Spec. No. 24510
Serial No. 1619706606
By 953 nut
I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings.
Hope this is helpful.
Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid.
Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start.
Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator.
By RJ Hamner
Let me first say that it ran when I brought it home. Drove it around the guys yard, tried out the mower, drove it onto the trailer and drove it off the trailer and into the garage.
I've done a "ground up" restore on the tractor (70 Charger 12). Swapped out the breakerless for a battery ignition and swapped out the 10 amp for a 15 amp stator, flywheel and regulator.
Pulled the head, looked pretty good, new head gasket and head bolts.new fuel pump, fuel lines,new switches and wiring, new aftermarket carb, new coil, coil wire, new points, new throttle and choke cables.
Static timed (twice just to make sure) Have tried Autolite 216's and the hotter 437's. changed the condenser to the high dollar Kohler one.
It will idle but when I give it some throttle it stumbles or will rev up a little then quits.
I've gone thru the "trouble shooting " steps multiple time and to no avail
Anyone got any ideas?? I am willing to try most anything at this point
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?
Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter .
From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ??
I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...?