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By RJ Hamner
Let me first say that it ran when I brought it home. Drove it around the guys yard, tried out the mower, drove it onto the trailer and drove it off the trailer and into the garage.
I've done a "ground up" restore on the tractor (70 Charger 12). Swapped out the breakerless for a battery ignition and swapped out the 10 amp for a 15 amp stator, flywheel and regulator.
Pulled the head, looked pretty good, new head gasket and head bolts.new fuel pump, fuel lines,new switches and wiring, new aftermarket carb, new coil, coil wire, new points, new throttle and choke cables.
Static timed (twice just to make sure) Have tried Autolite 216's and the hotter 437's. changed the condenser to the high dollar Kohler one.
It will idle but when I give it some throttle it stumbles or will rev up a little then quits.
I've gone thru the "trouble shooting " steps multiple time and to no avail
Anyone got any ideas?? I am willing to try most anything at this point
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?
Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter .
From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ??
I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...?
By Petes Horse
Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering.
This may also explain the oddball rim.
Bottom race. Or is it races now?
-----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!----------------------------------------
So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close.
Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off.
Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly.
The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup.
Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down.
Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new.
The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one.
End view with bearing installed.
To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side.
It's only .030 so not to bad.
Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm.
Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered.
No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out.
End cap with both bearings installed.
Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit.
The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm.
The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual.
I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it.
I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway.
Welp, back to painting parts.......