Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter .
From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ??
I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...?
By Petes Horse
Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering.
This may also explain the oddball rim.
Bottom race. Or is it races now?
-----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!----------------------------------------
So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close.
Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off.
Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly.
The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup.
Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down.
Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new.
The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one.
End view with bearing installed.
To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side.
It's only .030 so not to bad.
Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm.
Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered.
No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out.
End cap with both bearings installed.
Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit.
The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm.
The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual.
I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it.
I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway.
Welp, back to painting parts.......
I am hoping one of you knowledgeable lot will be able to help me out. I am fixing, as a surprise for my father, the ignition (that he took apart initially!) on our Wheel Horse 312-8. As we are in the UK we have struggled to get the ignition and loom which would have made this slightly easier. as the previous loom had melted slightly and a few wires came 'melted together'. And it is here where my problem lies. I have managed to get an ignition from a reputable provider here in the UK, but failed to get the loom. After visiting various local dealers they recommended I just connect the wires using spade connectors.
From images of the ignition prior, I have been able to connect most of the wires into the new ignition with ease however where some of the wires were twisted and burned together I am struggling to work out which wires go to the remaining terminals. I have found various manuals (most helpful one attached) and think I have followed them well. However I am left over with a small red wire of which I am unsure as to where it goes.
The three wires I was left with were: a white wire, a large red wire, and a small red wire. I know that the small red one but join either the big red or the white but I am unsure.
What I would have ideally is someone being able to send across a photo to ensure that I can't get this wrong or to be able to say definitively where it joins. Furthermore if you can see any basic errors you feel I may have made an help on that would be graciously accepted.
This is my first post but as I try to fix more and more parts it certainly won't be my last!
Hope you can help gang!
***This is all the info I have on the mower:
Toro 312 - 8 Cast Iron Kohler 12 HP Engine
42" side discharge
Manufactured circa 88/89
Vin/Model No: 78346
Serial Number: 3900161
Parts & Service Manual - E1 12K802/ R1-12 K01 8 Speed ***