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Greetings, I acquired and 1967 wheel horse 657 ... the engine on the thing is a Tecumseh with a Craftsman (very odd and not original I guess lol) mdoel number 143-546122 ... Having a really hard time figuring out the Tecumseh model number, cuz the craftsman site gives me the part list and what not, but most of which don't exist anymore, so wanted to try to find the Tecumseh parts instead of going the way of craftsman... best I can figure out so far is its an H60 engine... THX
Think I killed my Horse - Advice on reviving
First post. Been lurking for a year.
So I caught the Wheel Horse bug last year when I bought a '90 520H. Had about 950 hours. Came with 42" deck and plow. Guy I bought it from was really decent and said that the rear cylinder was starting to lose compression. When tested it was lower than I liked but not horrible. As I recall right around 100 hot, maybe just below. (Note to self: clean out fins after every use.) The guy also threw in a blown Onan 20 from another 520 swap he had done. I bought this with the full understanding that, sooner or later, I was going to be facing the dilemma I am now facing. Unfortunately, it is sooner.
I ran the tractor all summer, cutting a total of about 2.5 acres of ground every week or so. Was dutiful about clearing fins, but it was pretty dusty a couple times when I cut. Did service the breather once. Fell in love with that machine! Couldn't wait for a snowfall to push it around with the blade. In the mean time the guy I bought from had a 60" deck I had been eyeing when I picked up the tractor, and he offered it to me at a good price. Picked it up, installed it and used it for last cut of the season - a really dusty one, I might add. Ran like a dream! Deck was perfect and cut my time down considerably. I had a little slippage on PTO start up, but once moving, that deck screamed! After that last cut, I parked her in the equipment shed, put some stabilizer in the fuel, patted her nicely on the hood and wished her a good winter until the snows fell.
A few weeks later, I happened to be in the equipment shed and thought I would turn her over just to keep the carb clear. She started, but she was not happy about it. When I pulled her out, it was pretty clear she was only running on one cylinder. After a while I could feel the second one kick in. Hoping against hope, I changed the plugs, thinking one might have gone bad. Nope. So, because I didn't have time that day to fiddle further, I let her sit for a few more weeks. When I came back, I could not get her to start at all, until I took off the breather assembly, and then it was ragged. After a while she would not run at all. Upon inspection I realized that it looked like spurts of fuel were coming out of the top of the carb assembly. Cold compression was 95 on the front cylinder and 5, yes 5, on the back.
OK, so I've now gotten past denial stage and moved on to acceptance. I need to do something. I have lots of options. I am assuming that I have a valve problem on the engine currently in the tractor. May be something else, but, come on, its an Onan PG 220 and these are fairly classic symptoms... I think I just put it over the edge with that big deck. I probably could have babied it for another season with the smaller deck, but I had to save time!!! I don't really know what is wrong with the spare/part engine the guy threw in, but I am assuming the same thing. (Yes, I know what assuming does.)
So here is (are) the question(s): Do I take these Onans to someone (because the guts of an engine, outside of maybe repairing or replacing a carb, are beyond my current skills set) to try to patch together a workable engine from them? Do I just chuck it and do a complete swap with a new engine? (which I feel fairly confident I could accomplish on my own.) And if so what engine? Options - HondaGX690, a Vanguard of similar size, the HF Predator, and maybe a Kohler.
In giving your advice recognize a few things:
1. I HAVE the money to go all out on the replacement, but I am cheap as hell. The predator appeals to the second part of that. Have looked at the thread of the guy who did that replacement, so it looks simple enough, but wonder about the long term durability.
2. Similarly, I can probably afford whatever it would cost to combine engines, but, again, I am cheap as hell. I hate paying someone else to do work for me that I could do myself, or do the substitute of. Also, I worry a bit about the long term logic of fixing a 25 year old engine with another 25 year old engine. At the same time, I really loved the way that Onan roared.
3. I am fairly mechanically capable, but with limited knowledge or tools for progging around in the internal workings of an engine. Hook ups and problem solving for a retrofit should be no problem though.
4. Time is not a huge issue. I currently have a POS mower that does the job, but, sadly, is not a WH. I want to RIDE again, though....
Hit me with your best shot...
316 ( as US 416) with onan-oil light
By Uk Nick
Have just got a 316-8 mowed the lawn and then ran out of petrol just as it was getting dusk .
Now it won't start.
What I have noticed that I did not before is that when you turn the ignition on the oil light comes on.
I have looked up the manual which says that on a 312 and 310 if the oil is low the engine won't start.
Is that the same with the 316-the manual shows that it has an oil light but isn't specific about what its for( pressure or low oil)
My question is ,on a 316 is the oil light on when you turn the ignition on ,then goes off as the engine fires up and it gets oil pressure , or if the light is on when the ignition is turned on ,( and the engine is short of oil) the engine will turn over but not start ( as mine does).
The oil level is just above the minimum on mine at present.
Any help much appreciated.
This is off a 1960 Suburban that is getting a new electric start engine. It runs and idles very nice. After sitting for a couple weeks in cold weather it will puff smoke on start up and clears within seconds. It never did it when it was warm. I can deliver within a reasonable distance for gas money. Does not include pulley. The tin shroud has two mounting holes that are worn through and either the pull start or cup is not original because there are spacers on the pull cover. If more info or pics are needed please ask.