P220G: Stuck Flywheel and Oil Leak

[petermil12833 16]

Some readers may remember my posts of last winter/spring titled “520H Seized”. Lots of folks helped me remove the dreaded shroud and look inside my Onan P220G. It was a mess, and that engine went to the scrapyard. But then I got lucky! A local Forum reader contacted me and I was able to supply him a couple of small items for his restoration and he offered me the 220G from his “parts tractor”. It had good compression in front, and OK compression in the back. Rigged up temporary wiring so I could run it for evaluation. Heard lots of valve noise, and I found a collapsed tappet in back. It also had a slow/medium oil drip from very low, behind the flywheel.

 

I’ve replaced the bad tappet and adjusted the valves. Also cleaned up heads and valves and assembled all with new gaskets. Hoping to fix the oil leak, I removed the oil drain pipe and reassembled with thread seal. I also removed the oil filter adapter plate and the oil pressure switch and reassembled with new gasket and thread seal. Thinking I was done, I put everything back together, wired and plumbed it up and hit the starter. Success – it runs strong and sounds good.

 

But it still drips oil at the bottom when it’s running. I cannot see where it’s coming from, so I’ve removed the dreaded shroud and I’m trying to remove the flywheel. No luck so far, despite a puller, penetrating oil and heat from my propane torch. I even tried tightening the puller with an impact wrench. I thought the puller might break, but one of the grade 8 bolts that held the puller to the flywheel broke off instead.

 

* So I need some advice. Got any good ideas about removing a stuck flywheel? I am reluctant to hammer on it too hard . . . because that’s how I took the flywheel off my previous 220G, and I can’t help wondering if I contributed to the broken connecting rod and piston skirts. Could I have damaged the internal parts pounding on the puller/crank? What else should I try?

 

* Also any guesses about what might be leaking? I don’t believe it’s the oil drain pipe, or the filter or adapter plate or pressure switch. I dealt with those. I’m thinking the lower bolts on the timing/cam cover might need thread seal. But what else is in that same area?

 

All suggestions will be gratefully accepted and explored. THANKS!

[953 nut 59,912]

7 hours ago, petermil12833 said:

Got any good ideas about removing a stuck flywheel? I am reluctant to hammer on it

Do not hammer on the rim of the flywheel, could knock the magnets off.

If you can remove the engine and stand it on its side with the flywheel up while you apply penetrating oil it will have a chance to migrate down between the flywheel and crank. Do this several times a day for a couple weeks or so.

once it has had a good soak time run the puller down as tight as you can get it with the impact wrench and let it set a while. Tap on the area around the crank shaft while it is under pressure from the puller, back it off a couple turns and run it down tight again. a couple of good blows on the shaft of the puller and more light tapping around the shaft. repeat the process several times and sooner or later it should pop loose.

 

[lynnmor 7,813]

The flywheel removal process is on page 10-6 of the Onan Service Manual.  Post a photo of your current puller.

 

You said "collapsed tappet" but you should have solid lifters, so what collapsed?

 

I have seen cracked oil pans, maybe that is your oil leak issue.

[petermil12833 16]

Good advice from both Lynnmor and 953 Nut above, thanks. Confuscius's words are particularly sobering.

Well, I turned 80 while working on this beast, and I'd need help taking this engine off and turning it on its side, but I can see that's the most likely route to success. I'll try lesser methods for a week or so, then call my big strong grandson.

 

The tappets are in two pieces -- one is threaded into the other for adjusting. The threads were completely worn out and the smaller piece was just flopping inside the other. Runs great with a good tappet.

 

Cracked oil pan -- that's one of my worst fears. i hope this engine wasn't dropped. It only drips when it's running, so I'm hoping it's a bolt. Will update when I find it.

 

My puller is a simple harmonic balancer -- wish it were bigger. Here's a picture. Directly above it you can see the remains of the bolt that broke off when I pulled too hard.

THANKS ALL!!

[lynnmor 7,813]

That puller is your problem with just two bolts.  I use a flat plate drilled for all four bolts, the manual gives a side view.  In the center of that plate it is tapped for a fine thread bolt, I think mine is 1/2”.

 

Is that flywheel bolt backed off two turns, refer to the manual?

 

Clean the engine bottom well so you can see where the leak is starting, a powerful flashlight will help.

Edited September 3, 2022 by lynnmor

[peter lena 9,255]

 @petermil12833  get some lubricant on those screw  working areas , works much easier , might even try a dead blow on the end of that  screw , when screw loaded , might " pop "  off , pete 

[petermil12833 16]

Yes, flywheel bolt is backed off. I've been down there with a very powerful spotlight while it's running, but with the shroud/flywheel in the way, I could not see the source of the leak. Even with shroud off I can't spot it.

I have two WH tractors and expected them to back each other up year-round forever. I bought this tractor last summer and used it to mow and blow snow a few times until the engine blew at 600 hrs. I found a replacement, but I didn't expect to be tearing down another engine so I didn't look into a more robust puller. It worked on the original P220G engine that blew.

My 314-H, which has been doing all the mowing, snowblowing, hauling and leaf pickup for 25 years could use some simple preventive maintenance. But instead, there's this #$%^&&??/ flywheel.

So -- back out to the barn.

 

[petermil12833 16]

How hard can I bang on the puller without damaging interior parts? It's really stuck.

[lynnmor 7,813]

11 hours ago, petermil12833 said:

How hard can I bang on the puller without damaging interior parts? It's really stuck.

 

Are you still using that junk two bolt puller?  Remove the broken bolt and make up a plate like I showed in my post above.

[953 nut 59,912]

On 9/3/2022 at 12:03 PM, petermil12833 said:

I turned 80 while working on this beast

I'm only 77 years old so you got me by a couple years. If I can't do it with the engine hoist or the hydraulic lift table it doesn't need doin. I don't have a big strong grandson and my granddaughter hasn't brought any around yet. 

On 9/6/2022 at 8:58 PM, petermil12833 said:

How hard can I bang on the puller without damaging interior parts? It's really stuck.

As long as you are square on the end of that puller a four pound mini-sledge hammer with as much force as I can muster (not much these days. should not harm anything.

[Heatingman 971]

While Im not familiar with this motor, I assume the flywheel shaft is tapered.

 

With tapered shafts, percussion is typically the key.

 

Get some pressure on it with the puller, and hammer on the tightening screw of the puller like its a nail a few times, it should pop. 

[petermil12833 16]

953 Nut -- thanks for the encouragement. I'll give it another go.

[petermil12833 16]

Have made substantial progress (and repairs) on this engine since last post. The only remaining item needed before I put the 520H back in service is a flywheel key - Onan # 515-0284. They're backordered everywhere. If anyone has a spare, please let me know. THANKS!

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

16 minutes ago, petermil12833 said:

flywheel key

 

Something special about that key that you can't order one off the shelf from McMaster?

[petermil12833 16]

It's not a standard key shape. M-C doesn't show a similar shape. Looks like this

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

30 minutes ago, petermil12833 said:

It's not a standard key shape. M-C doesn't show a similar shape. Looks like this

 

That's weird!

 

 

[Snoopy11 5,718]

17 hours ago, petermil12833 said:

Have made substantial progress (and repairs) on this engine since last post. The only remaining item needed before I put the 520H back in service is a flywheel key - Onan # 515-0284. They're backordered everywhere. If anyone has a spare, please let me know. THANKS!

Be honest which'ya... this isn't the first time that I have seen that type of key. This is where it helps to have knowledge of various equipment, including GREEN!!!

 

I think you are going to have to get away from Onan and Cummins manufacturing to get that part.

 

Check into John Deere part HE515-0284... there are places online that have the part you need. I could personally order the part from my local Wright Implement since I have various green equipment and have a parts order account with them... but it would cost you the same as buying the part online.

 

https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Key-HE515-0284.html

 

Personally, I'd take the jungle option...

 

https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-HE515-0284/dp/B00NPC3N22

 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,718]

16 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

That's weird!

 

 

It may seem weird, I don't disagree. BUT... the Kohler maggy on my 718-z uses kind of the came concept. The reason why is because of this which has to attach to the flywheel side of the engine:

 

 

 

Don

Edited October 28, 2022 by Snoopy11

[petermil12833 16]

Thanks, Don! I was aware of the JD equivalent, but I wanted to look around before spending $30 for this tiny part. But if I must . . . .

[Snoopy11 5,718]

9 minutes ago, petermil12833 said:

But if I must . . . .

da' beagle thinks you must....

 

$30 bucks is a lot to spend on that part... butuh... there aren't any other legitimate options that I know of fa' 'dat...

 

Don

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

legitimate options

 

I'd think about giving my grinding wheel a workout, if I could find a piece of suitable steel.

 

 

[Snoopy11 5,718]

12 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I'd think about giving my grinding wheel a workout, if I could find a piece of suitable steel.

 

 

Yeah, if I had one of those to make a pattern... I'd produce my own just to give people a cheaper option...

 

Don

[RED-Z06 2,567]

On 10/27/2022 at 8:13 PM, Jeff-C175 said:

 

That's weird!

 

 

On the Performer engines, the flywheel key extends back past the flywheel and engages the rotor that triggers the ignition pickup 

[RED-Z06 2,567]

525-0284 is the performer key part, looks like under 10 bucks most places, its not a wear part nor a part that should ever need to be replaced 

 

https://www.smallenginesprodealer.com/part-onan-515-0284/

[Snoopy11 5,718]

2 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

525-0284 is the performer key part, looks like under 10 bucks most places, its not a wear part nor a part that should ever need to be replaced 

 

https://www.smallenginesprodealer.com/part-onan-515-0284/

Um... if you actually ask those types of questionably legitimate 'corporations' if they have the part in stock, they tell you that they do not and don't know when they will be able to get it...

 

Don