Ongoing Problem/Solution List: '75 D-160

[Forrest Carver 52]

Got a 1975 D160 a few weeks ago and it has been a labor of love working out the kinks and learning about the machine. Thank you all for the help thus far! I'm going to relegate all my issues to this one thread to avoid excessive posting. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions on the below problems, please let me know. I can provide pics and/or videos if that's helpful.

 

Current Issues:

 

Problem: Significant speed difference going uphill vs on flats

Cause:  Hydro pump/motor is worn, slippers and valve plates have been scratched/gouged by metal bits passing through the system (thanks pfrederi!)

Solution: resurface valve plates and slippers

 

Problem: Low/intermittent power at PTO

Cause #1: Clutch plate?

Solution: ?

Cause #2: Slipping belt?

Solution: Investigated belt. Looks good visually, doesn’t sound good. Like an old screen door opening.

Cause #3: ?

Solution: ?

 

Problem: 25a fuse blows when headlights switched on

Cause: ?

Solution: ? or ignore

 

Problem: Excessive condensation in gauges

Cause: ?

Solution: ? or ignore

 

Problem: No brakes

Cause: Missing brake band assembly

Solution: Replace brake band assembly or use wheel chocks

 

Problem: Wicked easy to pop a wheelie

Cause: Tiller and rear wheel weights installed concurrently

Solution: Obtain/fabricate and install front wheel weights, or remove rear wheel weights

 

 

Problem: Loose speed control handle

Cause: Just a little worn out

Solution: Replace or ignore

 

Problem: Floods occasionally

Cause #1: Debris in gas

Solution: Will eventually flush tank, replace fuel lines, and clean carb bowl

Cause #2: ?

Solution: ?

 

Problem: Tractor is too small and weak for my needs and acreage

Cause: Cat 0 3pt hitch, not enough HP for necessary attachments

Solution: Borrow dad's mid-70s Kubota L-series indefinitely

 

Problem: Love this tractor too much to get rid of it

Cause: it's awesome

Solution: Let my sister borrow the D160 indefinitely, or just keep it like a toy/collectible

 

Past Issues:

 

Problem: Blowing 25a fuses

Cause #1: Faulty ammeter

Solution: Bypassed

Cause #2: Poor routing, wires melted and grounded

Solution: Replaced wires and routed them properly

 

Problem: Throttle reverts to mid-throttle from full throttle

Cause: Loose friction bolt

Solution: Tightened friction bolt slightly

 

Problem: Insufficient room for knees

Cause: Seat position wrong for me

Solution: Installed lifter blocks

 

 

Problem: Headlights not functional

Cause: Severed wire

Solution: Reconnected wire

 

 

Problem: Rattling dashboard

Cause: Located missing 5/16 mounting bolt

Solution: Replaced bolt

 

Edited September 2, 2022 by Forrest Carver

[pfrederi 18,707]

Speed variance uphill vs flat 

Cause hydro pump/motor is worn, slippers and valve plates have been scratched/gouged by metal bits passing through the system.

 

Fix.  open her up resurface valve plates and slippers....  Major project.

[Forrest Carver 52]

5 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Speed variance uphill vs flat 

Cause hydro pump/motor is worn, slippers and valve plates have been scratched/gouged by metal bits passing through the system.

 

Fix.  open her up resurface valve plates and slippers....  Major project.

Thanks. Is this a problem I can safely ignore for a while/forever?

[ineedanother 1,668]

4 hours ago, Forrest Carver said:

Thanks. Is this a problem I can safely ignore for a while/forever?

I don't know the d-160s well but not all had the external brake band and I gather yours should. With that and a functional brake pawl for parking, you can probably kick that can down the road a bit unless it gets too bad or you are working on a lot of grade where you might really need to have the hydro controlling your speed better. 

[pacer 3,177]

Ahhh! The --- famous/INfamous 'Big D's'  Sort of a love/hate thing with them here on the forum.

 

 As it so happens I am a pretty big fan of them (I'm down to 3 at the moment). so, I can tell you right up front that you are gonna need to get up close and personal with the beast. They have pecularities that are unlike any other of the horses, so will need to start the process of learning some of them. 

 

The problem @pfrederi refers to is one of the 'biggies' and "Major project" is very true. As to ignoring it ... yes you can, and, it may go for a good while..... but, you will be wearing these components to the point where they cant be 'brought back to life'. If you are a pretty decent 'shadetree mechanic' then you should be able to tackle it, its not terribly complicated, just a good bit of work. There is more than enough info here on the forum to walk you through it. Plus, there is - thankfully - still a pretty good source of parts available (I have a couple of the motors, and ... maybe a pump?)

[Forrest Carver 52]

Thanks! So if I understand correctly, using the speed lever as a brake is likely exacerbating the wear on the hydro pump/motor, so I will likely be able to get more time out of it if I get a brake hooked up and use that instead of the speed control lever?

 

Yesterday I hooked up the snow/dozer blade to try my hand at some driveway grading. It was working decently well (once I set the blade angle to the least aggressive) until I tried to push too much material. The engine bogged down and died. This happened again a few times soon thereafter, including a couple of times under no appreciable load. It almost sounded like it wasn't getting enough fuel. I filled the tank again and continued grading until once again I overloaded it and it began to bog down again. This time I choked it right as it was bogging down, and that gave it enough life to keep running (but not well.) I could keep the machine running by making frequent, fine adjustments to the choke, but it would never really get chugging. When I turned it off and then turned it back on again, it ran normally again for the rest of the day. Could this have to do with the previously mentioned self-flooding issue, which was likely the result of contaminants in the gas tank?