GaryRat 31 #1 Posted June 5, 2022 I acquired a 1967 WheelHorse 1277 a few years ago and have slowly fixing it up. I rebuilt the 12hp Kohler motor and had the starter generator checked which is in good working condition. I did not have a key for the ignition switch so I bought a new one at the local auto parts store. The new switch is not a high current unit so a solenoid was added to the circuit to spin the starter. I did not do the wiring for this but had a friend do it who thought it would be simple. Unfortunately, I did get the tractor to start but one wire began to smoke and eventually burned the insulation off. So I need to figure out how to wire this so it works. Anybody ever do this or have a schematic that would work? Thanks for any help on this - the grass is getting tall! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,230 #2 Posted June 5, 2022 Don't know if this helps you, you just may have a gage issue, or a ground issue. Posting some pictures would help us. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GaryRat 31 #3 Posted June 5, 2022 Thanks for that info. I'm not sure if it will help though but maybe. As I noted, the new ignition switch is not the high current type the tractor originally came with. A solenoid has been added to the circuit and I don't know if my pea brain can figure out what changes I would need to make to the published schematic. I'll get some pictures today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,815 #4 Posted June 5, 2022 Gary, you got this. No worries. The ignition switch may very well be the wrong one. Take a pic of the back of it. The back of the ignition switch should have letters stamped near every terminal. If any if the letters are "M" it's wrong. If ALL the terminal letters can't be read you should consider the switch BAD for safety and reliability reasons. The correct high current switches are a little pricey but there's a very unique sound to a properly wired Starter/Generator system coming to life. IIFF your own existing switch IS correct and if you'd like to rewire the tractor using it, or get the correct solenoid type switch and repair the wiring, or rewire the tractor to original specs... You have options, all good. There are diagrams in the following thread that shows how to do whatever you decide is the way. Wiring is very easy once a basic understanding is there. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GaryRat 31 #5 Posted June 5, 2022 Here is a picture of what I have now. The back of the switch does not show up to good but you can see that it has more connection than the original which had three. One wire that appears to stick straight out is one that burned and was connected to the bulb. I'll go back out and take another picture that shows the back of the switch better. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,815 #6 Posted June 6, 2022 Part of the issue in there I can see right away is that the cables going away from the solenoid are not thick enough and likely aged. If you're going to stay with that solenoid and 5 pin switch setup, the solenoid really should be moved down to a position closer to the battery and SG and proper 6 gauge cables installed. It would be a good idea to pick up three or four feet of seven conductor trailer wire so you can separate the circuits by color which makes them far easier to trace and install. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,232 #7 Posted June 6, 2022 I would suggest you use a 103-991 ignition switch and follow the diagram below. As Eric @ebinmaine said you should move the solenoid down near the battery and use #6 AWG wire to and from the large terminals on the solenoid. Use a good flexible wire like a welder's lead rather than building type wire. All other wires can be # 16 or # 14. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GaryRat 31 #8 Posted June 6, 2022 Thanks for that info! I should have some time to work on that this afternoon. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,815 #9 Posted June 6, 2022 5 minutes ago, GaryRat said: Thanks for that info! I should have some time to work on that this afternoon. Keep us posted. Get more pics if you can. Definitely take a close look at the back of your existing switch. Most importantly, keep asking questions.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GaryRat 31 #10 Posted June 16, 2022 I removed the remnants of the burnt wire from the ignition switch and also the other end which was at the generator light. I was able to start the engine then without any smoke! But I don't know if my battery is getting charged. I am not sure what ignition switch I have in the machine but it has five connection like the one in the above diagram. I am anxious to mow the lawn as it is getting quite tall so further wiring will need to be done later. Once I got it running another problem was revealed - I am think my transaxle may be shot! I'll post that issue in another forum. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
