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JerryLook

Kohler 10hp smokes a lot

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SylvanLakeWH

No I just set the throttle and leave it. Choke is as you say, right there when you pull… usually choke for about 2 seconds then it runs strong…

 

4” pulley.

 

I would like to add a remote kill switch for safety.

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Jeff-C175

Nice litter pan!  

 

image.png.f46671ea9a29055c33cf33e3a6ae93e6.png

 

:ychain::text-lol:

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JerryLook
On 6/3/2022 at 5:09 PM, SylvanLakeWH said:

No I just set the throttle and leave it. Choke is as you say, right there when you pull… usually choke for about 2 seconds then it runs strong…

 

4” pulley.

 

I would like to add a remote kill switch for safety.

Is there a reason you built a new cradle for the engine instead of drilling holes in the old engine cradle? I’m looking at my existing engine cradle and it seems like I could just drill 4 holes in it and mount the new engine the same way the old one was. 
Then I don’t have to drill into the tractor frame. 

85A18957-9D98-4B99-B187-768CE3F891C1.jpeg

Edited by JerryLook
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Handy Don
52 minutes ago, JerryLook said:

Is there a reason you built a new cradle for the engine instead of drilling holes in the old engine cradle?

Only reasons I can see are fewer parts in play and to get the proper position of the crankshaft.

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JerryLook

That makes sense. I still have to look and see how much adjustment I have in the stock clutch/belt system. In case the new engine won’t fit in exactly the same spot. 
 

I figure I want to modify the tractor as little as possible, so I can put it back to stock when I get a donor k241, or if I get this one rebuilt. 

Right now I have a Briggs 6.75hp I can put in it. There are also some cool little Diesel engines on Amazon for not much more than the Predator 212 (which has gone up to 150$). 

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SylvanLakeWH
2 hours ago, JerryLook said:

Is there a reason you built a new cradle for the engine instead of drilling holes in the old engine cradle? I’m looking at my existing engine cradle and it seems like I could just drill 4 holes in it and mount the new engine the same way the old one was. 
Then I don’t have to drill into the tractor frame. 

85A18957-9D98-4B99-B187-768CE3F891C1.jpeg

 

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Only reasons I can see are fewer parts in play and to get the proper position of the crankshaft.

@Handy Don hit it on the head. Crank location is exactly same for lining up belt and belt guard.

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JerryLook

So, the engine I want to use has a tapered shaft. It’s 3/4” on the non tapered part. I’m sure a regular 3/4” shaft pulley would slide up there, but there’s no keyway. 

8630429C-4E9B-449D-84C2-895379A78192.jpeg

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SylvanLakeWH

I think they make adaptors…? Recent post I believe mentioned it… :confusion-confused:

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JerryLook

I’ve read something about it before also. But a google search just now didn’t find what I was looking for. I’ll look around on the forum and see if I can find it. 

The shaft is threaded for a screw on the end. The adaptor could be secured to the shaft that way. 

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JerryLook

Awesome. Thanks 

 

Expensive for what it is, but this engine was free. 

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