What am I doing wrong? ‘68 Charger 12

[BrianKoch 293]

Hello gentleman, 

 

Problem: will not crank on its own, will crank with jump box—but still not fire
 

Recent things I did prior to this issue: cleaned fuel filter, replaced battery cables, replaced cable from ignition to starter

 

I have my test light out and am probing around. 

 

There is no power at ignition/magneto wire or the ignition/starter wire

 

There is power everywhere else

[squonk 38,845]

Touch your test light from the b+ and b- right on the battery. Maybe your bulb is blown. I've seen it twice where a guy was stumped and his light was half the problem. (Wasn't me) 

 

Also what's the voltage at the battery? 

Edited May 29, 2022 by squonk

[BrianKoch 293]

14 minutes ago, squonk said:

Touch your test light from the b+ and b- right on the battery. Maybe your bulb is blown. I've seen it twice where a guy was stumped and his light was half the problem. (Wasn't me) 

 

Also what's the voltage at the battery? 

OK — touching test light from B+ on battery now shows test light on at ignition/starter and ignition/magneto 

 

I don’t have a way to read voltage on battery

 

P.S. This tractor is my first mechanical endeavor  so I’m learning as I go

[squonk 38,845]

OK. Looking at your 3rd picture. It looks like you have the red on what looks like by the label on the battery as Positive. I question this because I just put a battery in a C-160 with the terminals facing the front of the tractor and the negative terminal was on that side. You may have a reverse polarity battery which they sell for certain applications. Double check the marking on the battery. Your test light is working backwards so I question if the battery is just installed backwards.

[squonk 38,845]

Look at this battery. The negative on this one is on the side you have your positive cable. Check your battery markings 

[BrianKoch 293]

1 minute ago, squonk said:

OK. Looking at your 3rd picture. It looks like you have the red on what looks like by the label on the battery as Positive. I question this because I just put a battery in a C-160 with the terminals facing the front of the tractor and the negative terminal was on that side. You may have a reverse polarity battery which they sell for certain applications. Double check the marking on the battery. Your test light is working backwards so I question if the battery is just installed backwards.

 

[squonk 38,845]

1 minute ago, BrianKoch said:

 

Your battery is 3 years old. I would remove it and take it to a parts store to get tested. It may be shot. I just had one about the same age fail.

[BrianKoch 293]

1 minute ago, squonk said:

Your battery is 3 years old. I would remove it and take it to a parts store to get tested. It may be shot. I just had one about the same age fail.

OK will report back 

[squonk 38,845]

How bright did that bulb glow? You were picking up voltage drop on that cable testing it the way you hooked it up From battery pos to the other end of the cable. Test lights use 9 volt bulbs so they aren't the best for checking accurate voltage. Starter /Generators take about 85 Amps to get moving and around 65 amps once it's turning. I think you're going to find out you need a battery.

 

[BrianKoch 293]

17 minutes ago, squonk said:

How bright did that bulb glow? You were picking up voltage drop on that cable testing it the way you hooked it up From battery pos to the other end of the cable. Test lights use 9 volt bulbs so they aren't the best for checking accurate voltage. Starter /Generators take about 85 Amps to get moving and around 65 amps once it's turning. I think you're going to find out you need a battery.

 

I just purchased a new battery: 

 

EverStart U1 300CCA

 

Should I put a battery charger on it to get it fully charged before hooking it up?

 

 

[squonk 38,845]

Just put it in.

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

1 hour ago, BrianKoch said:

get it fully charged

 

I would, don't know how long it's been sitting.  But it won't hurt to try it.

[squonk 38,845]

If it's a new Wall Mart battery they can't keep them on the shelf here. It probably hasn't been sitting long.

[BrianKoch 293]

Update:

New battery in (fully charged)

Turned key to crank

Big spark pop from ignition switch

Cranks cranks cranks

Still not firing

Edited May 30, 2022 by BrianKoch

[Snoopy11 5,713]

58 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I would, don't know how long it's been sitting.  But it won't hurt to try it.

I always charge mine first...

 

Been bamboozled 1 too many times by battery dealers... LOL

 

I have gotten "new' batteries that show 60% capacity...

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

45 minutes ago, BrianKoch said:

Cranks cranks cranks

Still not firing

What does the ignition side of things look like... have you taken out the spark plug to ensure that you have good spark?

 

Sounds like something is getting grounded...

 

Don

[squonk 38,845]

Put you test light on the + side of the coil. Crank it over. Light should be on. If ok put the light on the - side of coil. Crank it over. Light should blink. Report back.

[953 nut 51,536]

13 hours ago, BrianKoch said:

touching test light from B+ on battery now shows test light on at ignition/starter and ignition/magneto

Your 1968 Charger should have the Breakerless Triger type ignition which is similar to a magneto.

You should NEVER have voltage on the Magneto post of your ignition switch. The mag. is self powered and if it has had 12 volts applied to it the unit is probably cooked.

Edited May 30, 2022 by 953 nut

[edgro 676]

Looks like it has been wired so the cranking amperage is running thru the ignition switch. Not made for that, need to have it running thru a solenoid. Ignition switch cannot handle that amount of current and may be bad. Big red wires at switch not good

[BrianKoch 293]

3 hours ago, squonk said:

Put you test light on the + side of the coil. Crank it over. Light should be on. If ok put the light on the - side of coil. Crank it over. Light should blink. Report back.

Where is the coil located on the K301S-47147B engine? 

[squonk 38,845]

Just now, edgro said:

Looks like it has been wired so the cranking amperage is running thru the ignition switch. Not made for that, need to have it running thru a solenoid. Ignition switch cannot handle that amount of current and may be bad. Big red wires at switch not good

Older tractors of that era used a 70 amp switch. No solenoid. What I didn't know was that the Charger of that era used a trigger ignition.

[squonk 38,845]

Just now, BrianKoch said:

Where is the coil located on the K301S-47147B engine? 

It's a Trigger Electronic ignition like Richard explained. I did not know this. follow the spark plug wire into the motor. But as Richard explained, if you put 12 volts to it you cooked it.

[BrianKoch 293]

4 minutes ago, edgro said:

Looks like it has been wired so the cranking amperage is running thru the ignition switch. Not made for that, need to have it running thru a solenoid. Ignition switch cannot handle that amount of current and may be bad. Big red wires at switch not good

Interesting point. When I replaced the cables I did up the gauge to #4. Is this what you are saying is sending too much current through ignition switch? 

[BrianKoch 293]

5 minutes ago, squonk said:

It's a Trigger Electronic ignition like Richard explained. I did not know this. follow the spark plug wire into the motor. But as Richard explained, if you put 12 volts to it you cooked it.

OK now that you mention it, I may have seen smoke coming out of this box when I first attempted to start it before creating this post. 
 

To confirm, how would I have put 12 volts to this? 

Edited May 30, 2022 by BrianKoch

[squonk 38,845]

Wiring diagram.