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Anthony Wendover

Magic paint from TS

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Anthony Wendover

Has anyone used the magic tractor implement paint from tractor supply? I picked up a few cans of their IH red and tested with some parts on my 1993 that have been under cover and covered in grease. Cleaned it up did a test and other than the new gloss it’s an exact match for color. 
 

how does the paint last if anyone has used it? Should I worry about it fading quick? I have the tractor to the frame and am getting ready to paint all the parts and start to assemble it. Then I would grab a gallon of that paint and do the body panels. But im torn between using this pain or a ppg paint. 
 

I would love to hear anyones thoughts on this paint. Thank you! 
 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/majic-tractor-truck-implement-spray-enamel-ih-red

Edited by Anthony Wendover
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953 nut

If you spray the Magic IH Red with a spray gun mixed with the hardener it lays down well and dries rapidly. I'm very happy with it but the spray can paint seems to take a long time to dry and cure.

Majic Catalyst Hardener, Clear, Half Pt.

Edited by 953 nut
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Anthony Wendover

Awesome great to know. I was going to rattle small parts and spray the big parts. But I may just spray it all. Any issues with fading or flaking? I think this is the way I’m going to go. 

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pacer
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

spray can paint seems to take a long time to dry and cure

 

I'll second that!! I thought the rattle cans were horrible! never even tried in cans. I promptly went back to tried & true 'Rustoleum' in their rattles and quarts.

 

I get by with 2 qts per tractor .... however, I do supplement with the rattle cans for small stuff.

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Anthony Wendover

Would you lay primer under the magic? 

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lynnmor
2 hours ago, Anthony Wendover said:

Should I worry about it fading quick?

 

There are many reports of it fading, Google it.  I would keep it out of the sun as much as possible.  I used it on a Craftsman triple stack tool chest with good results since it stays indoors.

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Achto
1 hour ago, Anthony Wendover said:

Would you lay primer under the magic? 

 

Primer is a necessary specially if you are using the hardener with the paint.  At the very least I would use a self etching primer under the paint.

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kpinnc
4 hours ago, Anthony Wendover said:

Has anyone used the magic tractor implement paint from tractor supply?

 

Only once.

 

Dollar General carries better quality paints. If you close your eyes and shove 10-15 cans off the shelf into your buggy, the assorted colors will match better than two of the same from Majic...

 

...And they will cure in less than 65 million years. Spray on deodorant has better coverage and drying times- and is 47 times more durable.

 

In short, I do not reccomend it. If you have to use rattle cans, go with Rust-Oleum. 

Edited by kpinnc
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JoeM

Primer yes and  a light scuff with 500.

I have used both rattle cans and the Rustoleum drys much better.

Hardener is a must in either for mix and spray.

Rustoleum sprays better, but is not as shiney. but good.

Using a HVLP gun I use acetone as the thinning agent. 5/2 mix. I like mixing the hardener in the thinner then add that mix in the paint. 2 coats okay but 3 is best. I like the first coat to be a light tack coat. 20 minutes between coats by the watch!

Both paints fade in the sunlight and I use a clear enamel over top. (Rustoleum rattle can) This gives a better UV protection. A word of caution, neither of the paints dry as well as automotive paint, and if your going to clear, I would wait at least two weeks cause it will lift. Light coats no puddles. The clear cuts and buffs nice if you are wanting show quality.

Not bad results for $45 a gallon paint. 

:twocents-twocents:

 

Base paint not dry when clear was applied

ClearCoatlifingonsidepanel1.jpg.899b91a1ee10ab8bb1e640f724698f14.jpg

 

Testing the clear

BottomFenderPanClearCoatTestEnamel3!.jpg.1f33fb524aa31f1895a0231084cb9239.jpg

 

Magic base with Rustoleum clear not buffed.

ClearCoatbeforeBuffparts1.jpg.cd2215716e37fd8e6da6103f85effd88.jpg

 

Cut and buffed side panel. Rustoleum base with clear sanded and buffed 

WHPartsBeltCoverCutandBuff1.jpg.511bcd77cd891837ab627838f2d141ae.jpg

 

Majic base on hood.

WHPartsSecondTryPaintwSprayGunHF3.jpg.da32a1a316dcdd8b26f582b3fc4ced8d.jpg

 

Edited by JoeM
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953 nut

One thing I should have mentioned in my first post, always use a RESPIRATOR while painting, not a dust mask. This is especially important if you are mixing a hardener in the paint.P100 High Efficiency Dual Cartridge Half Mask Respirator | Forney Industries

 

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squonk

I spray the Rustoleum Chrystal Clear when the last Rustoleum Regal Red coat is still wet and never have a lifting issue. Paint dries a lot faster too.

 

e23.jpg.ae1983de2fe6a96b4bc95818eb52e712.jpg

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Lee1977

Tractor Supply here has Rustolenm Tractor paint in IH red. I have used some Ford blue on a disc harrow and a plow but I brushed it on. I have a quart of IH red but haven't opened it.

SAM-1417.jpg

Edited by Lee1977

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rmaynard

Here is my post about Majic paint that is posted in 2014

 

 

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Brockport Bill
8 hours ago, JoeM said:

Primer yes and  a light scuff with 500.

I have used both rattle cans and the Rustoleum drys much better.

Hardener is a must in either for mix and spray.

Rustoleum sprays better, but is not as shiney. but good.

Using a HVLP gun I use acetone as the thinning agent. 5/2 mix. I like mixing the hardener in the thinner then add that mix in the paint. 2 coats okay but 3 is best. I like the first coat to be a light tack coat. 20 minutes between coats by the watch!

Both paints fade in the sunlight and I use a clear enamel over top. (Rustoleum rattle can) This gives a better UV protection. A word of caution, neither of the paints dry as well as automotive paint, and if your going to clear, I would wait at least two weeks cause it will lift. Light coats no puddles. The clear cuts and buffs nice if you are wanting show quality.

Not bad results for $45 a gallon paint. 

:twocents-twocents:

 

Base paint not dry when clear was applied

ClearCoatlifingonsidepanel1.jpg.899b91a1ee10ab8bb1e640f724698f14.jpg

 

Testing the clear

BottomFenderPanClearCoatTestEnamel3!.jpg.1f33fb524aa31f1895a0231084cb9239.jpg

 

Magic base with Rustoleum clear not buffed.

ClearCoatbeforeBuffparts1.jpg.cd2215716e37fd8e6da6103f85effd88.jpg

 

Cut and buffed side panel. Rustoleum base with clear sanded and buffed 

WHPartsBeltCoverCutandBuff1.jpg.511bcd77cd891837ab627838f2d141ae.jpg

 

Majic base on hood.

WHPartsSecondTryPaintwSprayGunHF3.jpg.da32a1a316dcdd8b26f582b3fc4ced8d.jpg

 

do you have a photo of can of the Rustoleum "clear" you put on as final coat

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Brockport Bill

ooops -- just saw it in one of your photos --thanks

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Lee1977

I used a HF 12 dollar gun when I painted my truck. It was put together so tight that I never got it apart. I sprayed etching primer, primer and the paint through this gun.  Reniced it with lacer thinner sprayed that out then with about half pint clen lacer thinner is all it ever got. The paint I used was PPG around $150 a quart. Here is the set up I used.

SAM-0847.jpg[/ur]

SAM-0846.jpg

SAM-1513.jpg

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squonk

Reminds me of my 85 Tojo Pu that I barrel-rolled! :(

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Ifixoldjunk

@JoeM Man those pictures make me wanna do my 310-8. just gotta hurry up and find a few more new parts and she’ll be readyCE5B8D5B-82AF-454C-B5E9-E4ECA2302E7A.jpeg.5bb7b56eb438f2f700e7ebca197b16ad.jpeg

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Chris G

Me and my dad used that paint on two different tractors and honestly got 2 total different results. We painted his International 330 Utility and a 240 Utility. The 330 paint overall held up well, with light but still noticeable fading. The 240 faded with in a year to a year and a half. 

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Anthony Wendover

Guys thank you so much! Great pointers and tips regarding the magic paint and better alternatives. After reading all of the advice in here and know what I want the outcome to be and to continue to look good for the next 30 years like the original I am now leaning to an automotive ppg paint to assure the quality I am looking for. 

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