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nataliator

New to me 314-8

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nataliator

Hi All,

New member here. Been lurking for a while and finally found myself a proper garden tractor. I bought a '97 314-8 with 42" SD deck. I have been able to answer a bunch of questions through search on here but there are some things I can't figure out!

 

1. It has 24x12x12 rears on it with 8.5" wide wheels. Based on my estimated measurement, it looks like about 6.5" of deep dish on the outside, and about 2" on the inside, measured to the hub. Did the best I could but the tires are so wide they don't let me be accurate with them bolted onto the tractor. From what I gather, this is not normal for this model. They don't rub, but they are about 1/4" away from the inner frame near the gas tank - definitely can't fit chains on if I want to. Should I find new wheels as well as rubber if I want to do that? Also, the valve to air up the tires is on the inside, not outside, not sure if this is normal, or if someone flipped these wheels to make the big tires fit. 

2. Fronts look like they came off a Deere or Cub, they are yellow with what appears to be a crappy black plasti-dip job. The rubber is in good shape so I may keep these a while. 

3. Where should I be looking for parts? Best to just get new from Toro? How's the used/part out market? I need a battery tie down (this thing has a zip tie holding the battery down lol) and one of the deck blade spindles underneath is partially broken (see pic). I am also missing one of the square hood inserts for the headlight openings.

4. The engine oil light doesn't light up when I hit the test button. The rest of the systems work, and the motor runs great, starts right up, and doesn't blow smoke of any color even on startup. It's at 790 hours. Something simple like the bulb? Is there somewhere this might have been bypassed in the past and I can/should reactivate?

 

Other than the above, it seems solid. no rust on the tractor, and just some superficial surface stuff on the deck. Excited to get her cleaned up, sharpen the blades, and put it to work. Of course the needful. Below some pics!

 

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Skwerl58

Nice tractor! The spindles can be rebuilt but your housing is shot. You can pick up parts from vendors or used from members here. I replaced my headlight bezels a couple of years ago and they were around $20 each at the time. Place a WTB ad in the classifieds and someone will come through with your parts. That 14 HP will have plenty of power for anything you want to do!

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oldlineman

Those rear tires look too big not sure what size they should be someone will be along to give you the right size. you might be able to slide the hubs out a little if you have the room. Bob

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Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti:  Nice solid start to the hobby!  If you’ve been lurking long enough, you already know they tend to multiply…. Not a terrible problem to have though!

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peter lena

 

@ NEW TO ME 314-8  , noticed that very dry , mower deck underside , recommend an  aerosol lubricant soak down , than leave it outside facing the sun , to warm  and heat up while sucking in the lubricant, like a chain and cable lubricant , you might even be able to gently scrape , try not to break the paint , that lubricant soak will help kill off the grunge . done this for years , take it easy on the blade sharpening , I like  a smaller fine file ,  boy  I would love to do a refresh on that , lucky you ! pete

 

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clueless

Those rear tires are definitely not original, it most likely came with 23x9.5x12 tires and 7 inch wide rims.

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nataliator

thanks for leads boys. My plan was to take a pressure washer to the underside of the deck to blow all the dried grass off and see what I was working with. But agreed I didn't think too much about blowing the paint off with it. I'll have to think of something more gentle as you suggest. 

 

And another stupid question - I see a bunch of square head bolts all over the place on this thing, that kind of look like a place to grease stuff (inner side of rear hubs, for example). Are these drains for oils/grease? Or something else?

 

Regarding the tires - any benefit to these fatties? Thinking maybe it would make the tractor more stable ( my acreage is pretty flat anyway). They do look kinda nice behind it though for me...:eusa-clap:

Edited by nataliator
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Handy Don
1 hour ago, nataliator said:

1. It has 24x12x12 rears on it with 8.5" wide wheels. Based on my estimated measurement, it looks like about 6.5" of deep dish on the outside, and about 2" on the inside, measured to the hub. Did the best I could but the tires are so wide they don't let me be accurate with them bolted onto the tractor. From what I gather, this is not normal for this model. They don't rub, but they are about 1/4" away from the inner frame near the gas tank - definitely can't fit chains on if I want to. Should I find new wheels as well as rubber if I want to do that? Also, the valve to air up the tires is on the inside, not outside, not sure if this is normal, or if someone flipped these wheels to make the big tires fit. 

2. Fronts look like they came off a Deere or Cub, they are yellow with what appears to be a crappy black plasti-dip job. The rubber is in good shape so I may keep these a while. 

3. Where should I be looking for parts? Best to just get new from Toro? How's the used/part out market? I need a battery tie down (this thing has a zip tie holding the battery down lol) and one of the deck blade spindles underneath is partially broken (see pic). I am also missing one of the square hood inserts for the headlight openings.

4. The engine oil light doesn't light up when I hit the test button. The rest of the systems work, and the motor runs great, starts right up, and doesn't blow smoke of any color even on startup. It's at 790 hours. Something simple like the bulb? Is there somewhere this might have been bypassed in the past and I can/should reactivate?

 

Welcome! Always nice when a lurker decides to join the discussion!

 

1. Yes, the "normal" size tire would be 23x9.5 - 12 so the profile would be a lot smaller. Those rim dimensions sound ok, though. Some folks just like the fat tire look and the slight speed bump of the larger diameter.

2. Fronts look fine. Lots of GTs (garden tractors) used similar wheels. As long as they hubs fit properly on the spindles, you'll be OK.

3. Look in the classifieds https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/ under For Sale or create a post of your own under Wanted. Also, you can check in the Vendor section. There are NOS (new old stock), used, and reproduction stuff available. Some parts are still available from Toro, but can be pricey. STRONGLY recommend getting to the Files section of this site and searching for "Tractor 314 IPL" (use all words as search terms) to get the manual for your machine. That'll let you use the correct terms and part numbers when looking. I just picked up a carload of parts from A-to-Z, for example, for myself and a couple of other members.

4. I'm not familiar with the 314 indicator lights. Hoping someone else can chip in on this.

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Handy Don
1 minute ago, nataliator said:

thanks for leads boys. My plan was to take a pressure washer to the underside of the deck to blow all the dried grass off and see what I was working with. But agreed I didn't think too much about blowing the paint off with it. I'll have to think of something more gentle as you suggest. 

 

And another stupid question - I see a bunch of square head bolts all over the place on this thing, that kind of look like a place to grease stuff (inner side of rear hubs, for example). Are these drains for oils/grease? Or something else?

Once you have the OM (owners' manual), you'll learn that these are called Zerks and are for putting in grease with a grease gun.

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nataliator
1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

Once you have the OM (owners' manual), you'll learn that these are called Zerks and are for putting in grease with a grease gun.

 

I thought zerks had a little nipple on them to attach the grease gun? These are just solid top, weird... Sounds like I need to get some proper fittings for greasing it up either way

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Pops

Vendor section on Red Square is a good source for most parts. I would suggest wheel spacers these come in various widths, they are available on line and some auto parts stores. These will move wheels away from the body but not on  the height.

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Pops

The indicator lights the oil light should blink when you turn the key to run and then go off when it starts.

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nataliator
6 minutes ago, Pops said:

The indicator lights the oil light should blink when you turn the key to run and then go off when it starts.

 

:handgestures-thumbupleft:Yep she definitely does not. Doesn't light at all, ever. First thing I did was change the oil and I check before I start it so I think it's probably fine. Will have to see why the light is out.

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Handy Don
16 minutes ago, nataliator said:

 

I thought zerks had a little nipple on them to attach the grease gun? These are just solid top, weird... Sounds like I need to get some proper fittings for greasing it up either way

I agree. Sounds like someone took away the zerks and stuck in plugs. Yikes.

Edited by Handy Don
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pfrederi

The square head things on the back part of the hub are the set screws to hold the hub and woodruff keys in place.  Should be two on each hub and a hex jam nut on them keeping them tight

Edited by pfrederi
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Handy Don
14 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

The square head things on the back part of the hub are the set screws to hold the hub and woodruff keys in place.  Should be two on each hub and a hex jam nut on them keeping them tight

Duh. Right.

I was thinking of the front hubs, not the rears.

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Pops

The square heads on inside of rear wheels  actually are the heads of the bolts that hold the hub on the axle and keep from spinning freely 

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roadapples

I have a spindle housing on a deck that looks like yours. Been like that for many years. No problem. I check it when I clean the deck and sharpen the blades. If you buy other wheels, Wheel Horse wheels have 1 3/8" back spacing. And :WRS:

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gwest_ca

The 1979 314-8 uses an M14 Kohler engine which does not have a pressurized lubrication system - splash lubed only.

When the oil light is energized it flashes - the only light to do that.

It is controlled by a float in the oil pan. The next time you have the oil drained turn the key to the RUN position without starting or running the engine. The float should have dropped and activated the light and prevented the starter from working. The test switch should also activate the light so there is a problem with it. Do the rest of the lights work when tested?

If you ever have to remove the low oil switch for service there are special instructions for doing so without damaging the switch. It contains magnets that can be loaded with filings which can prevent the switch float from moving. 

This low oil circuit only prevents the starter circuit from being activated so it will not give a warning after the engine starts and runs.

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nataliator

Yep all the other lights work. The oil light doesn't light at all, ever (so far). It has never not activated the starter when I turn the key (though I did not try with the oil empty!) Will give that a shot next time around.

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Tractorhead

:text-welcomewave: to :rs:

here you be best surrounded with your Wheelhorse.

 

great looking Rig !

does the spindles have play side to side?

if so, the bearings inside the spindles chan be exchanged.

 

 

 

 

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clueless
6 hours ago, nataliator said:

thanks for leads boys. My plan was to take a pressure washer to the underside of the deck to blow all the dried grass off and see what I was working with. But agreed I didn't think too much about blowing the paint off with it. I'll have to think of something more gentle as you suggest. 

 

And another stupid question - I see a bunch of square head bolts all over the place on this thing, that kind of look like a place to grease stuff (inner side of rear hubs, for example). Are these drains for oils/grease? Or something else?

 

Regarding the tires - any benefit to these fatties? Thinking maybe it would make the tractor more stable ( my acreage is pretty flat anyway). They do look kinda nice behind it though for me...:eusa-clap:

Those fat tires only benefit is if you need more flotation (foot print), if your going to drive it down here ( Pensacola Fl. Beach) on the sugar fine sand then they will help other than that they don't make much difference, but they sure look cool :handgestures-thumbupright:.

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953 nut

:WRS:

Lots of good information being passed your way already. Parts guy named Lincoln at A to Z is the best, give him a call.  https://a-ztractor.com/

 

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rlrnot

Welcome!  I do believe the air valve on the rear tires should be on the inside on your tractor.  That is where mine are on my 310-8.

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